Checking Codes -- Gen II Swap Options

[Fastbird]

Driving home from work today, check engine light came on. No immediately apparent driveability issues until I tried to accelerate from a stop. Barely able to do it and car would buck and surge like crazy. I got up to speed and putting the car in neutral, shut if off for about 5 seconds (still rolling mind you, just in case it didn't want to start back up) and then I keyed the power on and let the clutch out, and she came right back to life, no check engine life. All seemed fine. About 10 minutes later, did the same thing, so I did the same thing. All was fine again all the rest of the way home.

Is there any way to check the codes on the Gen II swaps??

[lagos]

congrads, you hit fuel cut.

to check codes, you have to bridge TE and E1 in the diagnostic box with a paper clip or a wire.

you can also wire in my handy diagnostic switch so that you dont have to deal with paper clips
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=37471

once you find your code, you can look it up in this list
http://celicatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10155

This post has been edited by lagos: Feb 2, 2007 - 11:38 PM

[Fastbird]

congrads, you hit fuel cut.

to check codes, you have to bridge TE and E1 in the diagnostic box with a paper clip or a wire.

you can also wire in my handy diagnostic switch so that you dont have to deal with paper clips
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=37471

once you find your code, you can look it up in this list
http://celicatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10155

But why would the fuel cut just randomly show up??? It's done it three times total, each one while under simple cruising at about 45-50 MPH.

Thanks for the code checking/write up. I'll try to do that tomorrow since the Celi's going to be in the garage during the hiatus of the corvette. Happen to have a diagram of the pinout of the diagnostic box, and where it's located???

This post has been edited by Fastbird: Feb 3, 2007 - 7:50 PM

[lagos]

you have an FCD in place, right?

on a cold day like the ones we have been having, youll end up hitting a lot more boost at the same ebc settings. just the other day i saw 18psi on my car because of this cold weather (i have fuel cut totally disabled).

you can see the diag box right next to the switch in this pic. open it up and it will tell you what the pin functions are.

[toyotacrazy]

He said he was just cruising though. Not boosting right? Pull the code and let us know!

[Fastbird]

Right. Each time the code came up I was NOT boosting. Going to pull the code this evening after I put the car in the garage. Thanks for the help with this guys.

Lagos, I completely agree with the setup liking colder air. I did a 5th gear pull against my buddies 99 AWD A4 with some work, and noticed (thanks to the nexus gauges going red) that I was at 20 PSI instead of 17 PSI like normal. But the AMAZING part was that it HELD the 20 PSI for the duration! Which is leading me towards playing with a small meth shot as an induction cooler and a safety net against detonation at that level. Won't happen until after the move unfortunately, but it's something to look forward to doing.

[Fastbird]

I know a couple of you are going to LOVE this.

52 -- Knock Sensor Circuit. Looks like I need to double check the wiring connections that were made with the ATS GM KS Conversion kit. It's only an intermittent issue, and has only happened three times, but it's damn inconveniencing to have to shut the car off and restart.

This post has been edited by Fastbird: Feb 5, 2007 - 10:31 PM

[toyotacrazy]

Yea you need to fix that ASAP!!! Like now!

[lagos]

I know a couple of you are going to LOVE this.

52 -- Knock Sensor Circuit. Looks like I need to double check the wiring connections that were made with the ATS GM KS Conversion kit. It's only an intermittent issue, and has only happened three times, but it's damn inconveniencing to have to shut the car off and restart.

sounds to me like you blew the knock sensor from running WAY too much boost. you should keep the car at about 13-14psi on pump gas. with water injection you can take this up to 15-17psi, but anything over is not a good idea since this turbo was never really designed to run at those boost levels.

[Fastbird]

I'm not so sure the knock sensor is blown though. If it was, I wouldn't think the DTC would cycle out with shutting the car off and turning it back on. Not to mention the fact that why would it show up randomly at a steady low MAP cruise at 45-50 MPH?? I'm going to look at the wiring harness for it this evening since the car is inside right now and see if there's any chaffing or breaks in it. If anything, I've got a couple of spare knock sensors at the house anyway cause of the GM conversion.

[lagos]

well, the harness connection is worth inspecting. but i know from my own car that i used to get knock at 15psi and above before i got the water injection. i would imagine that your car gets it too when you run 17 psi or when you hit 20psi that one time. did you ever feel a hesitation or loss of power while driving? sometimes knock response can be hard to notice just based on feel.

it takes the ecu some time to realize that its no longer getting a signal from the knock sensor. so you wont see the CEL the moment that the sensor failed. then when you cycle the key on and off, the ecu starts trying to listen to the knock sensor all over again.... when it doesn't hear it for a few minutes, it throws the code again.

[Fastbird]

well, the harness connection is worth inspecting. but i know from my own car that i used to get knock at 15psi and above before i got the water injection. i would imagine that your car gets it too when you run 17 psi or when you hit 20psi that one time. did you ever feel a hesitation or loss of power while driving? sometimes knock response can be hard to notice just based on feel.

it takes the ecu some time to realize that its no longer getting a signal from the knock sensor. so you wont see the CEL the moment that the sensor failed. then when you cycle the key on and off, the ecu starts trying to listen to the knock sensor all over again.... when it doesn't hear it for a few minutes, it throws the code again.

I actually noticed no hesitations or power drops when it was boosting that high. I have the fuel cells set up to keep it fairly rich up top to combat the odds of knock (note to self: wire that resistor in to the SMT 6 and pull a couple of degrees up top anyway).

It's completely random when the light was thrown. I had driven to work for 1+15 that morning without incident. Driving home, about 25 minutes into it the light came on, I reset, and within 10 minutes came back on. I reset again and for the last 30 minutes home it was uneventful.

I'll probably toss a replacement in there anyway. Can't hurt.

[lagos]

sometimes it can be hard to feel knock. but i remember seeing knock on the dyno sheet you posted before. so you have definetly had knock happen before.

whats your smt6 tune look like? what parts of the rpm range are you adding or taking out fuel and by how much? are you adjusting timing at all?