Oil Filter Upgrade, Bigger one for the 5sfe motors (UPDATE) Options

[Bigmeanbulldog55]

I don't know about everyone else, but I hate it everytime I go to change my oil and am reminded of how small my oil filter is. How can that thing do the job that the 2.2lt requires? So, I found one that matched the thread pattern and diamater and just put it on my car. It's a PureONE PL14477. It's only about a half and inch longer, but it's enough to make me happy. I'll try to find out what car comes with that.

EDIT: Update at bottem.

This post has been edited by Bigmeanbulldog55: Feb 6, 2007 - 9:24 PM

[spunky393]

is that safe? The oil filter isn't something i've ever messed around with.

and i'm pretty sure that is the filter for the 2002 Camry 2.4l

[Bigmeanbulldog55]

is that safe? The oil filter isn't something i've ever messed around with.

and i'm pretty sure that is the filter for the 2002 Camry 2.4l

I don't see why it wouldn't be safe. Same internals, same line up, same seal, seems safe to me. I know guys do this with Geo Metros. They have a notoriously small bad filter. I checked them both up and down, and the only difference is the new one is a little bit longer. Holds more oil and has more holding capacity.

[presure2]

it wont hurt at all.
no real need tho, the stock filter is perfectly fine, and is also used on the 3s.
when i first turboed, i used a ford V8 filter for awhile...it holds almost a quart by itself its so huge! lmao...
just a bit of overkill IMO...

[valerit1]

I don't know about everyone else, but I hate it everytime I go to change my oil and am reminded of how small my oil filter is. How can that thing do the job that the 2.2lt requires? So, I found one that matched the thread pattern and diamater and just put it on my car. It's a PureONE PL14477. It's only about a half and inch longer, but it's enough to make me happy. I'll try to find out what car comes with that.

Food for thoughts:



http://www.shoclub.com/lubrication-oil/lub...on-oilpart4.htm



Filter Size and Life Cycle

Oversize it?

Lets take a look at the life cycle of a normal oil filter. A filter works best, with both effective flow and cleaning some time during the middle of its life. At the beginning it is a little too "open" to filter out the smallest particles. But because it is open it flows well so resistance to flow is minimal and flow capacity is very good it is just that the ability to filter out the smallest talc sized dirt is not very good.



During the mid-life period as the filter collects soot, metal and carbon the pores of the filter media trap and plug the tiny spaces with in the fabric. As a result the filter becomes less permeable, it flows just a little less oil for the same pressure and temperature, but it does a better job of filtering out the very fine sub 20-micron particles that cause the most wear. The filter is in the sweet spot. SPF and, capacity are both acceptable.

Toward the end of a filters life the dirt load that is filling the pores is choking off the flow capacity. Anything getting through the media is clean but the quantity of clean oil is not sufficient for the engines needs. We risk starving the bearings for oil, or the bypass will always be open, and in effect we are doing little or no filtering at all.

So the dirt carrying capacity or shell size is related to engine size in a rough sort of way. The bigger the motor the more wear surfaces, the more dirt inhaled so during the same 3000 mile oil change interval it will generate and need to trap more dirt. If we take an oil filter typically used on small block V8's or even big block engines they have twice the filter media area as the smaller filters. When time comes to change the oil at 3000-5000 miles they may just be getting in to their most effective part of their life cycle. Hence they never function optimally, or spent far less time in that range where small particle filtering is most effective.

[Yellow94GT]

Food for thoughts:


http://www.shoclub.com/lubrication-oil/lub...on-oilpart4.htm

Filter Size and Life Cycle

Oversize it?

Lets take a look at the life cycle of a normal oil filter. A filter works best, with both effective flow and cleaning some time during the middle of its life. At the beginning it is a little too "open" to filter out the smallest particles. But because it is open it flows well so resistance to flow is minimal and flow capacity is very good it is just that the ability to filter out the smallest talc sized dirt is not very good.

I think that data applies more to paper than synthetic filters. Pure One uses synthetic media.
I think if there is no significant loss in oil pressure with a larger filter than there would be a slight advantage with more filter surface area.

Yellow94GT

[valerit1]

I don't know about everyone else, but I hate it everytime I go to change my oil and am reminded of how small my oil filter is. How can that thing do the job that the 2.2lt requires? So, I found one that matched the thread pattern and diamater and just put it on my car. It's a PureONE PL14477. It's only about a half and inch longer, but it's enough to make me happy. I'll try to find out what car comes with that.

Did you notice ANY change it time before oil pressure stabilizes with the larger filter -
i.e. did the oil light stay on any longer upon startup with the larger filter?

[Bigmeanbulldog55]

I don't know about everyone else, but I hate it everytime I go to change my oil and am reminded of how small my oil filter is. How can that thing do the job that the 2.2lt requires? So, I found one that matched the thread pattern and diamater and just put it on my car. It's a PureONE PL14477. It's only about a half and inch longer, but it's enough to make me happy. I'll try to find out what car comes with that.

Did you notice ANY change it time before oil pressure stabilizes with the larger filter -
i.e. did the oil light stay on any longer upon startup with the larger filter?

Nope. Filter seems to be doing great. I've driven the car about 500miles since the change. If you check the posted date, yeah I have been traveling. Pressure comes right up when turning the engine on. I guess it would take a fraction of a second to get oil to the top mount pressure gauge, but I didn't notice it. It's maybe 10-15ml extra. I'm not preaching this as a wonderful upgrade. It's just a little bit extra for those who think the standard 5sfe filter is too small.

[spunky393]

On the post up there about oil pressurizing time, i was taught: after changing your oil (oil and filter), to always click the key to on once (for like 5-10 seconds), then off, then start the car. I don't know if a/t are any different, but with the m/t, by turning the key to on, your oil and fuel pump is running....I think,hahahaha

[Bigmeanbulldog55]

On the post up there about oil pressurizing time, i was taught: after changing your oil (oil and filter), to always click the key to on once (for like 5-10 seconds), then off, then start the car. I don't know if a/t are any different, but with the m/t, by turning the key to on, your oil and fuel pump is running....I think,hahahaha

Fuel pump runs, but I'm pretty sure the oil pump runs off a gear system from the rotation of the motor. That's why you get more pressure with higher rpms.

[Bigmeanbulldog55]

I have a word of advice on this. I've been testing it for 3-4 months now and it seems to still be working fine. But, I am switching to a Toyota filter from the factory. They have a system that holds the oil in the filter when the car is off, so it doesn't start dry. With the larger filter, you have to wate just a second longer for the oil to fill the filter and then go through the motor. If anyone else wishes to do this, I really recommend Toyota filters.

[94GT]

I just rolled over 271,000 miles today, and I use cheap crappy basic fram filters. I don't think it matters much what you use on a stock unmodified 5SFE.

[Steevo]

I have used fleetguard filters for over 100K on my olds and it still has great oil pressure and runs clean.



I just started with fleetguard on the celi.



Part Information

Fleetguard part information for LF3614 is listed below.

Part: LF3614
Manufacturer: FLEETGUARD
Part Type: Lube, Spin-On

ADBV: Yes
BPV Setting: 65.5 kPa (9.5 PSI)
Largest OD: 68.33 mm (2.69 in)
Overall Height: 73.66 mm (2.9 in)
Thread Size: 3/4-16 UNS-2B

Additional Information:
TOYOTA 9091503001


But upgraded to a larger filter as it doesn't have the bypass valve and flows more oil at the same micron filtration.

No problems in 6K miles.


Part: LF655
Manufacturer: FLEETGUARD
Part Type: Lube, Spin-On

ADBV: Yes
Overall Height: 116.08 mm (4.57 in)
Overall Height: 116.08 mm (4.57 in)
Largest OD: 77.47 mm (3.05 in)
Largest OD: 77.47 mm (3.05 in)
Thread Size: 3/4-16 UNF-2B
Thread Size: 3/4-16 UNF-2B

Additional Information:
FORD D0RY6731A TOYOTA 1560133020
Is Metal Version of
LF42504



This is what I am using. UNS and UNF threads are the same, minus one radius at the bottom of the thread pitch that UNS has, but will not matter.

[valerit1]

EVERY - I repeat - EVERY decent filter (shortr of COMPLETE junk) has antidrainback valve -
not only toyota filters. When you take off your larger filter, it should be full of oil -
unless the valve failed - rare happen. I did not notice any difference in small and larger
filters in termes of time for oil pressure to stabilize - at 32F, 10w30 oil both took 3.3c +- .1 c.
So no matter how big your filter is, the only difference should be the first start - right after
the installation. Which is negligible, but some obsessive people prime it - (fill with oil when install).
Afterwards, it should be full of oil all the time. Check for yourself - take the filter off and cut it -
it should be full of oil.

I have a word of advice on this. I've been testing it for 3-4 months now and it seems to still be working fine. But, I am switching to a Toyota filter from the factory. They have a system that holds the oil in the filter when the car is off, so it doesn't start dry. With the larger filter, you have to wate just a second longer for the oil to fill the filter and then go through the motor. If anyone else wishes to do this, I really recommend Toyota filters.

[Bigmeanbulldog55]

I just rolled over 271,000 miles today, and I use cheap crappy basic fram filters. I don't think it matters much what you use on a stock unmodified 5SFE.

But if you're 5sfe is not stock and is a weekend race car, it matters a little bit. I'm very picky and I want every fraction of a hp I can get. And the smoother the motor runs, the more hp is but to the ground.

EVERY - I repeat - EVERY decent filter (shortr of COMPLETE junk) has antidrainback valve -
not only toyota filters. When you take off your larger filter, it should be full of oil -
unless the valve failed - rare happen. I did not notice any difference in small and larger
filters in termes of time for oil pressure to stabilize - at 32F, 10w30 oil both took 3.3c +- .1 c.
So no matter how big your filter is, the only difference should be the first start - right after
the installation. Which is negligible, but some obsessive people prime it - (fill with oil when install).
Afterwards, it should be full of oil all the time. Check for yourself - take the filter off and cut it -
it should be full of oil.

I have cut open both K&N filters and the PureOne filters. If you do this shortly after you turn the car off, it's fine. But if you wait 12 or so hours, it drains out. The 5sfe has a filter that goes on threads/hole down. If you have a motor that's used like mine, or you're just picky, that .1second is important. My oil pressure also takes about 3.5 seconds to reach the gauge. My motor does have the original oil pump on it and it has 160K, so it could just be a little worn out which would cause the slower pressurizing. Either way, it's better safe than sorry. By the way, my obsessiveness has most likely got me one, if not the best running 5sfe's around. But at the same time, I bet I've dumped way more money into a NA 5sfe than most.

[valerit1]

I removed the filter and put it upside down for 2 WEEKS! - nothing come out.
Like I said, the anti-drain valve either works or it does not. If it does,
the larger filter should make NO difference in pressure build-up time.
BTW - people who use the sandwich filter adapter for sensors slightly increase
the time - because it adds more room to fill every start up and has no anti-drain
features.

I just rolled over 271,000 miles today, and I use cheap crappy basic fram filters. I don't think it matters much what you use on a stock unmodified 5SFE.

But if you're 5sfe is not stock and is a weekend race car, it matters a little bit. I'm very picky and I want every fraction of a hp I can get. And the smoother the motor runs, the more hp is but to the ground.

EVERY - I repeat - EVERY decent filter (shortr of COMPLETE junk) has antidrainback valve -
not only toyota filters. When you take off your larger filter, it should be full of oil -
unless the valve failed - rare happen. I did not notice any difference in small and larger
filters in termes of time for oil pressure to stabilize - at 32F, 10w30 oil both took 3.3c +- .1 c.
So no matter how big your filter is, the only difference should be the first start - right after
the installation. Which is negligible, but some obsessive people prime it - (fill with oil when install).
Afterwards, it should be full of oil all the time. Check for yourself - take the filter off and cut it -
it should be full of oil.

I have cut open both K&N filters and the PureOne filters. If you do this shortly after you turn the car off, it's fine. But if you wait 12 or so hours, it drains out. The 5sfe has a filter that goes on threads/hole down. If you have a motor that's used like mine, or you're just picky, that .1second is important. My oil pressure also takes about 3.5 seconds to reach the gauge. My motor does have the original oil pump on it and it has 160K, so it could just be a little worn out which would cause the slower pressurizing. Either way, it's better safe than sorry. By the way, my obsessiveness has most likely got me one, if not the best running 5sfe's around. But at the same time, I bet I've dumped way more money into a NA 5sfe than most.

[94GT]

But if you're 5sfe is not stock and is a weekend race car, it matters a little bit. I'm very picky and I want every fraction of a hp I can get. And the smoother the motor runs, the more hp is but to the ground.

What kind of mods have you done to it?

[BLADDER_MASTER]

.

This post has been edited by BLADDER_MASTER: Nov 13, 2012 - 2:44 PM

[Negative]

If you want a taller Toyota oil filter for your 5S-FE, use:

90915-YZZF1

It's the oil filter for the 4A-GE/GZE + 2nd gen 3S-GTE. And I only use Toyota oil filters for both my 3S-GE and 5S-FE.

Was gonna post just that. What he said.

[alltracman78]

no real need tho, the stock filter is perfectly fine, and is also used on the 3s.

Manny, I know this is old, but I wanted to throw this in.
The 5SFE filter is NOT the same filter as the 3SGTE.
They are physically interchangeable, but the 3S filter is taller.

Nothing wrong with using the taller filter from Toyota.
They are identical inside with the exception of the taller one obviously having more filter area.

FYI the YZZF1 is for the 3SGE/GTE, 4AGE/GZE, 2ZZGE and 1/2AZFE.
YZZF2 is for the 3/5SFE, 4/7AFE, 1ZZFE, and 1NZFE.

Either filter will physically bolt on to all of the above engines. However, at least for the first row I strongly suggest using the correct filter. I don't see it hurting to use the taller one on the second row.

Also, the larger filters for the V6/8 will thread on and at least for most engines won't leak.
So they can offer an even larger filter capacity. How well they will work I don't know however.

This is all for OEM filters only BTW.