Finishing up 2slow2nervous's 3SGTE Swap, What a nightmare! |
Finishing up 2slow2nervous's 3SGTE Swap, What a nightmare! |
Mar 20, 2007 - 7:26 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 14, '06 From MN, USA Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) |
I want free things done to my car as well. I hate that the celica is piss slow. Damn full time school AND work.
I will coming to you as well. |
Mar 20, 2007 - 9:16 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 19, '07 From savannah Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
QUOTE(Negative @ Mar 20, 2007 - 1:33 PM) [snapback]537958[/snapback] Welds look great. I welded for 3 years in college and I never got very good at tig because the place I worked for mainly speced mig welding. Just a thought: What makes Tig welding preferable in these applications? cosmetics, control and thinner materials make tig the best option. you get a much cleaner weld. you can weld stainless and aluminum with mig, however there is a lot of setup involved and the quality is pretty crappy in comparison. tig is a lot easyer and it looks great. This post has been edited by angrymike: Mar 20, 2007 - 9:23 PM |
Mar 21, 2007 - 12:51 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 25, '06 From HAMILTON NJ Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
wow! thanks alot!!! u and ur whole team are awesome im happy i was told to go u guys!!!! cant wait to see them pics i appreciate this work alot doc!
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Mar 21, 2007 - 11:17 AM |
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Administrator Joined Aug 23, '02 From Seattle, WA Currently Offline Reputation: 14 (100%) |
Great work! That harness work doesn't look like much fun...that's pretty mangled.
-------------------- New Toyota project coming soon...
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Mar 21, 2007 - 12:16 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Sep 30, '06 From Knox Vegas, Tennessee Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Y'all should do fab up some stainless manifolds for the 3sgte.
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Mar 21, 2007 - 12:18 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Sep 9, '02 From Scranton, Pa Currently Offline Reputation: 7 (100%) |
thoes welds are sexy! how thick is that IC piping you TIG'd? id have access to a TIG but was unsure how thin of a pipe i could get... i know the ones ive seen are too thin for my current skill.. id deff blow through a few before i got the hang of it!
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Mar 21, 2007 - 8:17 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jun 19, '06 From Portland, OR Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
and ten grand later.....
-------------------- 87 4runner DLX 22re, 5spd, 4.30gr, 4" lift, 30" tires, HID w/ Projectors, 6spkr + sub, custom exhaust, 94 celica leather seats, SR5 gauge cluster and clinometer. Future engine swap... possibly a 2jzge.
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Mar 21, 2007 - 9:10 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Nov 29, '04 Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) |
QUOTE(Negative @ Mar 20, 2007 - 3:49 PM) [snapback]538045[/snapback] A long trip with a few stops for cool down is the best way to break in a new motor. That is completely wrong. The first 500 miles of break-in on a new or rebuilt engine should NOT be at continuous high speeds. Instead, Occasional, quick bursts of acceleration, followed by quick bursts of deceleration is best for the first 500 miles of break-in. Although, I'm not even sure why you brought up breaking in a new motor, isn't his engine used? This post has been edited by gt_driFFter: Mar 21, 2007 - 9:13 PM |
Mar 21, 2007 - 9:30 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 22, '03 From NOVA Currently Offline Reputation: 16 (100%) |
when you rebuild a motor you should rebuild...
but no you shouldn't "burst" accel or decel.. advice on breaking in a new motor is best found from your ENGINE BUILDER NOT on this site but not going past 3k rpm and not boosting as much as possible....basic ways to just take it super easy on the engine i would image |
Mar 21, 2007 - 10:59 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 11, '06 From Way South Chicago Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
its the first 100 miles that matter the most, thats the rings seating against the piston walls and knocking the hone off. dont boost during that, dont lug the engine, dont rev it up and down really fast. drive it gently and roll in and roll out of the throttle.
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Mar 21, 2007 - 11:02 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Nov 2, '06 From Towson, MD Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
QUOTE(playr158 @ Mar 21, 2007 - 9:30 PM) [snapback]538561[/snapback] when you rebuild a motor you should rebuild... but no you shouldn't "burst" accel or decel.. advice on breaking in a new motor is best found from your ENGINE BUILDER NOT on this site but not going past 3k rpm and not boosting as much as possible....basic ways to just take it super easy on the engine i would image funny that I've never read that before. People say this say that, but we call them desktop engineers. Ive known plenty of people that "break it in like you're going to drive it" with excellent results. Can you go forward with your explanation on WHY you think this way? Is this motor completely stock? There is no cam break-in, a solid shot of boost will no-doubt seat those rings really well. So tell me, where is your information coming from? Because i think you're a qualified desktop engineer sir, congratulations. So please show me the documented evidence that mostly stock motors need any sort of break-in procedures. |
Mar 22, 2007 - 12:04 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 9, '05 From Oakland, Cali Currently Offline Reputation: 46 (100%) |
wow great job!!!!....luv yoru work on the welding.....u do any other work besides celicas?....
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Mar 22, 2007 - 12:10 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 12, '05 From Texas Currently Offline Reputation: 59 (100%) |
QUOTE(DeW_H0e_GT @ Mar 22, 2007 - 12:04 AM) [snapback]538617[/snapback] wow great job!!!!....luv yoru work on the welding.....u do any other work besides celicas?.... QUOTE(angrymike @ Mar 19, 2007 - 10:59 PM) [snapback]537888[/snapback] hey guys, angrymike here. first time on this board. i've been welding and building for about 5 years now. i'm having a great time working with tweak. i've built stuff for toyotas in the past, but i would say i'm a little bit of a noob when it comes to toyota specifics. i specialize in saturns, however i've been turboing all kinds for things for the last couple years. hopefully tweak will show me the ropes so we can offer more specific toyota toys. if you guys have any questions on welding, fabrication, turbos or fuel stuff i can probably lend a hand. This post has been edited by snapshotgt: Mar 22, 2007 - 12:11 AM -------------------- Past: V6 Swapped 6G Celica, E46 BMW M3, Jeep Wrangler TJ
Current: 850rwhp C6 Corvette Grandsport, Gen1 6.2L Ford Raptor |
Mar 22, 2007 - 12:26 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Nov 29, '04 Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) |
QUOTE(playr158 @ Mar 21, 2007 - 11:30 PM) [snapback]538561[/snapback] but no you shouldn't "burst" accel or decel.. advice on breaking in a new motor is best found from your ENGINE BUILDER NOT on this site Oh you mean like companies that solely rebuild all different types of engines? Like the one that directly quotes : QUOTE Applying loads to the engine for short periods of time causes increased ring pressure against cylinder walls and helps to seat the rings. This is especially important because you are "BREAKING-IN" the engine with heavy duty oils. The rapid deceleration increases vacuum and gives extra lubrication to the piston and other assemblies. Yeah, I thought so. |
Mar 22, 2007 - 12:55 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 8, '04 From Newport, RI Currently Offline Reputation: 63 (99%) |
QUOTE(MrBill @ Mar 22, 2007 - 12:02 AM) [snapback]538598[/snapback] QUOTE(playr158 @ Mar 21, 2007 - 9:30 PM) [snapback]538561[/snapback] when you rebuild a motor you should rebuild... but no you shouldn't "burst" accel or decel.. advice on breaking in a new motor is best found from your ENGINE BUILDER NOT on this site but not going past 3k rpm and not boosting as much as possible....basic ways to just take it super easy on the engine i would image funny that I've never read that before. People say this say that, but we call them desktop engineers. Ive known plenty of people that "break it in like you're going to drive it" with excellent results. Can you go forward with your explanation on WHY you think this way? Is this motor completely stock? There is no cam break-in, a solid shot of boost will no-doubt seat those rings really well. So tell me, where is your information coming from? Because i think you're a qualified desktop engineer sir, congratulations. So please show me the documented evidence that mostly stock motors need any sort of break-in procedures. -------------------- |
Mar 22, 2007 - 6:41 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 31, '03 From Orlando, Florida Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
hahaha thats funny... owned... good work tweak, awesome to see these great projects, hopefully ill make it up in a couple years or so
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Mar 22, 2007 - 6:58 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 9, '06 From Ma Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
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Mar 22, 2007 - 8:16 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 25, '06 From HAMILTON NJ Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
thanks for the info on breaking in the motor guys..... I keep hearing all diff things tho not one person has really agreed with each other so im just gonna see what tweak says to do... after all he is doing my motor and should kno the best. Waiting on him to post more pics should deff be up today!!! cant wait. And this project is not costing me about 10k believe it or not hes very well priced... U go into it with 5 a lil more u will have amazing work by tweak.
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Mar 22, 2007 - 9:36 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Nov 12, '02 From Webster Ma. Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
ill give you guys a few quotes. QUOTE What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ?? The Short Answer: Run it Hard ! QUOTE The real reason ??? So why do all the owner's manuals say to take it easy for the first thousand miles ??? This is a good question ... Q: What is the most common cause of engine problems ??? A: Failure to: Warm the engine up completely before running it hard !!! Q: What is the second most common cause of engine problems ??? A: An easy break in !!! Because, when the rings don't seal well, the blow-by gasses contaminate the oil with acids and other harmful combustion by-products !! Ironically, an "easy break in" is not at all what it seems. By trying to "protect" the engine, the exact opposite happens, as leaky rings continue to contaminate your engine oil for the rest of the life of your engine !! QUOTE The Problem With "Easy Break In" ... The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run. There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !! If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again. this all about seating piston rings properly, but i figured id share. he has alot of good info on that site. also congrats on the swap man! This post has been edited by x_itchy_b_x: Mar 22, 2007 - 9:37 AM -------------------- |
Mar 22, 2007 - 9:41 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 31, '04 From Summerville, SC Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) |
Just so there's no mistake, "breaking in" an engine is only for new and rebuilt engines. After a swap (with a used engine, like this), no break-in period is required. I personally recommend a "take-it-easy" period for the first few weeks while you're getting to know the engine in your car and make sure everything is all set.
-Doc -------------------- -Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaire Click here to see my swaps drtweak@phoenixtuning.com |
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