Few issues |
Few issues |
May 7, 2007 - 10:49 AM |
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Moderator Joined Apr 17, '03 From Rockland NY Currently Offline Reputation: 15 (100%) |
QUOTE(lagos @ May 7, 2007 - 11:46 AM) [snapback]554959[/snapback] you charcole canister should not be vented to the atmosphere. it should go back to one of the hard lines that goes to the tank. the vac valve to the right is actually your tvis system. its on the back of the intake manifold . Maybe this vented port on the canister is my problem then. The stuff on the back of the manifold is intact. Whats TVS and jet ? new page -------------------- I will return one day. |
May 7, 2007 - 11:04 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 31, '02 From Philadelphia, PA Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (100%) |
i dont know about tvs and jet. jet seems like a filter, and tvs seems to be a valve, but ive never seen them on my car before. might be a usdm specific thing.
if i were you, i would take all the vac lines for the canister off and cap the nipple on the engine to see if it helps. it does sound like it could be the cause of your problems. This post has been edited by lagos: May 7, 2007 - 11:05 AM -------------------- 15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
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May 7, 2007 - 11:09 AM |
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Moderator Joined Apr 17, '03 From Rockland NY Currently Offline Reputation: 15 (100%) |
I'll give it a shot.
Being that I removed my AC. IIRC I had a plug on the idle up valve, should jump this plug or modify my harness in some way ? I know mine is not the screw type you have, it was electronic. Also are there any companies out there that make metal vacuum T's. I don't trust the plastic T's I have anymore. -------------------- I will return one day. |
May 7, 2007 - 11:15 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 31, '02 From Philadelphia, PA Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (100%) |
if you dont have ac, then you should just totally remove that valve and cap everything on the motor.
-------------------- 15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
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May 7, 2007 - 11:15 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Nov 12, '02 From Webster Ma. Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
I have all the tvis, tvsv, Power steering, and AC idle up valves, all unplugged both hose and harness ways. no codes or weird running conditions.
I agree with Lagos about the canister. maybe the canister itself is punctured? -------------------- |
May 7, 2007 - 11:20 AM |
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Moderator Joined Apr 17, '03 From Rockland NY Currently Offline Reputation: 15 (100%) |
All the AC parts are removed. I'm talking about the wiring to the idle up valve. I was wondering if that needed to be modified because I removed the item it was plugged into to.
Maybe the can has a hole, I believe its the original. I didnt swap over the canister from my clip. I just hope this solves my vac and idling issues. -------------------- I will return one day. |
May 7, 2007 - 11:36 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 31, '02 From Philadelphia, PA Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (100%) |
you dont have to do anything with the wiring.
-------------------- 15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
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May 7, 2007 - 1:51 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 3, '04 From Hollywood, MD Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
also i never trust the readings of vacuum on my boost controller, ive seen anywhere from -78 to -99 and every time i check my vac with a boost gauge its always right at 20hg warmed up.
before i did my manifold work (gasket + stud replacement + resurfacing) i got -98/99 every time, then i put it back and got low 90's, now im getting mid to high 80's, sometimes it goes to 96 or so again.. its so inconsistent. yet every time i bring out the boost gauge i get a 20hg reading |
May 7, 2007 - 3:59 PM |
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Moderator Joined Apr 17, '03 From Rockland NY Currently Offline Reputation: 15 (100%) |
Brian, whats the brand name of this inconsistent boost controller ?
-------------------- I will return one day. |
May 7, 2007 - 4:19 PM |
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Moderator Joined Oct 1, '02 From fall river, ma Currently Offline Reputation: 13 (100%) |
jeff the 3rd hose under your TB is your idle control valve hose.
the other 2 are coolant lines, like you said. guys say when you do the leak test to clamp off that hose. your boost gauge is mechanical, right? start the car up, and connect the gauge right in the bay, with a nice short hose and check the readings. -------------------- Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)
13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered |
May 7, 2007 - 5:14 PM |
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Moderator Joined Apr 17, '03 From Rockland NY Currently Offline Reputation: 15 (100%) |
QUOTE(presure2 @ May 7, 2007 - 5:19 PM) [snapback]555074[/snapback] your boost gauge is mechanical, right? start the car up, and connect the gauge right in the bay, with a nice short hose and check the readings. I'll also be trying that Saturday. I'm not happy with the little tiny nylon hose. I think I'm going to re-replace that hose under the TB. Can anyone tell me the size of the hose so I can preorder it and have the correct size ? -------------------- I will return one day. |
May 7, 2007 - 5:22 PM |
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Moderator Joined Oct 1, '02 From fall river, ma Currently Offline Reputation: 13 (100%) |
Item Number MSRP Core Price Price 1734188381 $16.52 $0.00 $12.56 HOSE, AIR, NO.1 thats the PT# off the epc, jeff. -------------------- Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)
13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered |
May 7, 2007 - 7:03 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 3, '04 From Hollywood, MD Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
QUOTE(defgeph @ May 7, 2007 - 8:59 PM) [snapback]555070[/snapback] Brian, whats the brand name of this inconsistent boost controller ? its a greddy profec II spec B my experience has led me to believe that the -XX vac reading means pretty much nothing, as it changes so much, and my friend with the same controller gets the same inconsistency |
May 7, 2007 - 7:14 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 31, '02 From Philadelphia, PA Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (100%) |
QUOTE(brianforster @ May 7, 2007 - 8:03 PM) [snapback]555120[/snapback] QUOTE(defgeph @ May 7, 2007 - 8:59 PM) [snapback]555070[/snapback] Brian, whats the brand name of this inconsistent boost controller ? its a greddy profec II spec B my experience has led me to believe that the -XX vac reading means pretty much nothing, as it changes so much, and my friend with the same controller gets the same inconsistency your not always going to get exactly the same vac. everything from engine temp, outside temp, and rpm can result in slightly different readings. what you have to do is figure out how to convert the -99 to a normal vac reading. youll probably find that the difference is something along the lines of 20.0 -20.9 vac. -------------------- 15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
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May 7, 2007 - 7:25 PM |
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Moderator Joined Apr 17, '03 From Rockland NY Currently Offline Reputation: 15 (100%) |
This boost controller Is a real PITA
I have another pic. I have two vac lines circled, they are both capped off. So what could my charcoal canister be hooked up to ? I know its connected to something. Damn man, I really wish I lived closer to my car. -------------------- I will return one day. |
May 7, 2007 - 7:45 PM |
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Moderator Joined Apr 17, '03 From Rockland NY Currently Offline Reputation: 15 (100%) |
I tryed converting KPA to figure out what -99 actually means. I'm getting nowhere near 20hg. Anyone wanna take a shot.
-------------------- I will return one day. |
May 7, 2007 - 8:13 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 9, '06 From Ma Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
QUOTE(lagos @ May 7, 2007 - 9:07 AM) [snapback]554911[/snapback] a boost leak test will find leaks in the system. from vac lines to IC couplers. any vac/boost leaks on a 3s will play a big role in how the car idles, because youll always be sucking in air that the afm cant account for. QUOTE(x_itchy_b_x @ May 7, 2007 - 9:37 AM) [snapback]554924[/snapback] QUOTE(alltracman78 @ May 7, 2007 - 7:39 AM) [snapback]554901[/snapback] A boost leak won't affect idle quality at all. A vacuum leak will however.. That sounds like an oxymoron. It's actually not. A boost leak is when you have positive pressure leaking OUT of the engine system. A vacuum leak is when you have negative pressure leaking out [air is getting sucked in] Two totally different things. A boost leak CANNOT cause idle problems because there is no boost at idle [3SGTE specific here]. A vacuum leak can and will cause problems at idle. Most of the time if you have one, it will turn into the other once conditions change [from positive to negative pressure]. But it DOESN'T always happen that way. Sometimes an opening will only leak under one or the other. A BOV/BPV is a perfect example. It's a [controlled] boost leak. As long as it's working right, it won't leak under vacuum [yes I know engine vacuum is used to help open it, but with a weaker spring it wouldn't be needed, and it's on the opposite side of the valve]. With rubber/silicone hoses you can have a cut or opening that will be forced closed by one condition [boost/vac] but forced open by the other. In addition to this, boost leaks are normally check after the turbo. Which totally ignores the AFM and hoses between it and the turbo. And as most of you probably know, with the stock 3SGTE intake hoses there is a very common problem with the hose to the turbo cracking on the bottom. With a normal boost check this would be ignored. Which is why I differentiated the two. A couple of other things, in no particular order. The JDM vacuum routing is actually quite different than USDM. Differences include no EGR different TB hose routing different ac hose routing different charcoal canister hose routing The charcoal canister DOES and IS supposed to vent to atmosphere..... There are 3 lines. one from the fuel tank one to the TVV [USDM] or VSV [JDM] one to the vent [vents right above the side to side crossmember] The TVV is a Thermal Vacuum Valve, AKA a BVSV or Bimetal Vacuum Switching Valve. It is a thermally controlled valve. When it gets hot [in this particular case] it opens, allowing the engine to suck fumes from the charcoal canister. JDM 3SGTEs don't have this. They have a VSV [electronic] on the side of their smaller charcoal canister. As long as you have 18 - 22 in/hg you are fine. Book says 15 - 22 in/hg, but IMO anything below 18 is a bit questionable. Mine raised from 20 in/hg to 22 in/hg just by adding a MSD ignition. So your first step is to get a GOOD pressure gauge and see where you're at. If I can remember I'll bring mine from work on the 19th. I'll show you the vacuum routing then too, I don't have a book diagram, but I have a 100% RC set at work right now. -------------------- |
May 7, 2007 - 8:36 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 17, '06 From New Jersey Currently Offline Reputation: 105 (100%) |
QUOTE(defgeph @ May 7, 2007 - 7:45 PM) [snapback]555137[/snapback] I tryed converting KPA to figure out what -99 actually means. I'm getting nowhere near 20hg. Anyone wanna take a shot. -99 Kpa is -742.561 mmHg ?!?! I did it 3 times the 1st by hand didn't believe it so did it 2 more times with the calculator is that what you're getting ? I don't think that's the correct vacuum reading -------------------- |
May 7, 2007 - 9:52 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 31, '02 From Philadelphia, PA Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (100%) |
alltracman78.... i think what itchy was trying to say is that anything that leaks vac at idle will leak boost when you are boosting. so if the vac line for your powersteering is leaking at idle, it will also leak at boost. thats why we consider boost/vac least to mean pretty much the same thing.
-------------------- 15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
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May 7, 2007 - 10:02 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jun 13, '05 From Poughkeepsie, NY Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) |
just read on
This post has been edited by devilsden97: May 7, 2007 - 10:45 PM -------------------- Kawi Love |
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