stupid i know but i want know what you guys think, 3sgte 275 to 300 to the wheels Options

[urbandork]

From what ive read 275 to the wheels (fwd) is what you can get out of a 3rd gen 3sgte with out giong crazy with fuel mang, fmic and other stuff is this ture??? if not what can i expect with simple bolt ons?

im basically thinking of getting some more power from the motor which currently is just stock other then a dp and about 3 ft of exhaust with a race series magnaflow under the shifter area.... yes thats right it doesnt go all the way to the back. (how much whp do u think im running now??)

so ive read that the motor and turbo set up is good for about 14 psi as with anything above id have to worry about knock.

hopfully i can get my hands on a mines ecu as i dont want to fiddle around with any standalone fuel mang., fmic, and would like to keep things rather simple.

what do you guys suggest?

i was thinking dp, exhaust, mines ecu, and an ebc putting the boost at 14 psi, and MAYBE a custom intake manifold like this one http://cgi.ebay.com/3SGTE-intake-manifold-...1QQcmdZViewItem
everythign else stock.

what kind of numbers would you estimate with and w/out the intake manifold??????

thanks?

[Redline08]

wait your exhaust doesnt go all the way back, why?!?

i know on a yota big 4" and 5" muffler tips can look ricey but at least put something back there, it looks cheap when there is nothing there...

just my opinion, if you like it thats fine lol

[lagos]

you have much to learn, my son...


yes, 275-300hp is totally doable on your motor/turbo. however dont waste your money on any mines ecu or an intake manifold.

for starters, get yourself a full 3in exhaust, if you dont already have one, and get rid of any cats you have. then find a local dyno, and book some time. 14psi is totally stock boost on that motor. you can run alot more then that! the best thing to do would be to slowly start turning up the boost past 14psi while on the dyno. you should be able to run about 16-17 psi, without knock. this would meet your goal.

you should also be able to do the knock detection led mod i posted about in the stickes, on your 3rd gen. while its not the ultimate way to monitor knock, it does give you good feed back on whats going on, as your run more and more boost.

This post has been edited by lagos: Jun 2, 2007 - 11:33 PM

[urbandork]

wait your exhaust doesnt go all the way back, why?!?

i know on a yota big 4" and 5" muffler tips can look ricey but at least put something back there, it looks cheap when there is nothing there...

just my opinion, if you like it thats fine lol

no no my stock muffler is there. im trying to keep a stock look.

you have much to learn, my son...


yes, 275-300hp is totally doable on your motor/turbo. however dont waste your money on any mines ecu or an intake manifold.

for starters, get yourself a full 3in exhaust, if you dont already have one, and get rid of any cats you have. then find a local dyno, and book some time. 14psi is totally stock boost on that motor. you can run alot more then that! the best thing to do would be to slowly start turning up the boost past 14psi while on the dyno. you should be able to run about 16-17 psi, without knock. this would meet your goal.

you should also be able to do the knock detection led mod i posted about in the stickes, on your 3rd gen. while its not the ultimate way to monitor knock, it does give you good feed back on whats going on, as your run more and more boost.

what would i need for that kind of tuning? standalone ecu? blah i kinda wanted to keep it simple. but maybe you can sway me.

[lagos]

your missing the point...

you dont need a stand alone, or any kind of tuning, intake manifold, or ecu. all you need to do is turn up the boost. if you want to do it safely, go to a dyno where you will be able to see if what your are doing is safe or not.

you also need to open up your exhaust. the stock muffler is a big restriction.

[Hanyo]

the stock ecu can compensate for the increase boost?

[urbandork]

your missing the point...

you dont need a stand alone, or any kind of tuning, intake manifold, or ecu. all you need to do is turn up the boost. if you want to do it safely, go to a dyno where you will be able to see if what your are doing is safe or not.

you also need to open up your exhaust. the stock muffler is a big restriction.

no no you missed read

i have my stock muffler just hanging there.

my real exhaust system consist of a ko racing DP (2.5") i went with a 2.5 as i thought a 3" would be to big after what manny told me about his 3" exhaust.

after the down pipe i have 2.5 piping which connects to a magnaflow oval race series (straight through) under the car just about where the shifter assembly is.... after that i have it an angle peice which points down to the ground under the car.

currently they are cursh bends but i plan on re doing the piping with manderal bends soon.



wait so all i really need to do is put an ebc on it and turn up the boost???

[Redline08]

no no my stock muffler is there. im trying to keep a stock look

gotcha, good plan, no one likes rice!

lol

This post has been edited by Redline08: Jun 3, 2007 - 1:30 AM

[lagos]

isn't your exhaust ... like ... crazy loud?

yes, pretty much all you need to do is turn up the boost. how much are you at now?

[Wolf_tm]

On REALISTIC dyno rollers, a 3rd gen 3SGTE with K&N panel filter, full 3" exhaust, decat, and boost at 1.2 bar ( this boost is safe only with 100 RON fuel ) makes around 295HP at the flywheel ( SAE corrected ).


This means around 252hp @ wheels in case of a FWD box ( 15% lost in trasmission ), or 236hp @ wheels in case of AWD box ( 25% lost ).

[urbandork]

isn't your exhaust ... like ... crazy loud?

yes, pretty much all you need to do is turn up the boost. how much are you at now?

its not to loud ok maybe a little but i like it... What makes it really loud is the fact that the muffler is actually right under you when ur driving so the cabin acts like a drum and with the windows inside it can get pretty intence on long trips.

as of now im running whatever stock boost is which i was told was like 12 right???? someone told me that with the d/p i might get some boost creep.

i had a boost guage on my 5sfte but took it off since i was only running with a stock ecu and plus i have a hybrid st204 w/ usdm speedo so i have that little boost gauge that the gt4s have... which ive been told is slow and really doesnt do anything.... thus ive been thinking of buying a boost gauge but now that all i need is to raise the boost i may get an EBC with boost read out.

i know the rev 3 3sgte has 540cc injectors stock which is good for a lot more hp then i plan on running but will the ecu have the correct fuel mapping for higher boost.

I figured a mines ecu along with an EBC would get me where i want to be. I thought that the mines ecu had a higher boost setting as well as a better fuel and timming mapping and IICR it also had a speed limiter defender on it to. So i figured with a mines ecu and EBC id get everythign ive been thinking of getting in a simpler package ........ higher boost, better tuning, way of reading boost, and a speed cut defender

then i figured that that intake manifold would help me out even over stock? that ebay auction was claming 13% gains on a totally stock 3s...... do you think thats ture/reasonable... Plus the shinny polished alum. would look really good with my cusco sturt bar and the anodized blue TB would look good with my cusco sturt bar and camber plates.

btw just for the ease, wow factor, and stock look i want to keep my top mount w/a ic which should be good for up to 16 psi or right? which the ct20b kinda maxes out around anyway.


PS thanks you guys for all ur input. I really enjoy listening and seeing what you all have to say.... Its kinda like being at a meet lol.

This post has been edited by urbandork: Jun 3, 2007 - 3:48 AM

[presure2]

you dont need any of that extra stuff you listed in your first post.
you have a 3rd gen.
like art said, any MBC, a decent 3" exhaust, and an intake, should be just about all you need to get real close to 300whp.
you have 540cc injectors stock, so you have pleanty of fuel for it.
you dont need any tuning.
just turn up the boost.
IIRC boost cut is ~18psi on the 3rd gen.
run the best gas you can, i know thats a tough one in cali...
91 is all thats available there right?
who told you the 20b is only good up to 16psi...that sounds like the '26 myth to me.
the intake manifold i would avoid till your ready for lots more VS mods..like cams and headwork ect.

[urbandork]

you dont need any of that extra stuff you listed in your first post.
you have a 3rd gen.
like art said, any MBC, a decent 3" exhaust, and an intake, should be just about all you need to get real close to 300whp.
you have 540cc injectors stock, so you have pleanty of fuel for it.
you dont need any tuning.
just turn up the boost.
IIRC boost cut is ~18psi on the 3rd gen.
run the best gas you can, i know thats a tough one in cali...
91 is all thats available there right?
who told you the 20b is only good up to 16psi...that sounds like the '26 myth to me.
the intake manifold i would avoid till your ready for lots more VS mods..like cams and headwork ect.

coolios then i guess ill jsut turn up the boost woot woot... didnt think it was that simple. i guess im glad i went with a 3rd gen

[lagos]

start out with a good quality boost gauge

i would steer clear of any ecu upgrades. a lot of times, they tune things too aggressive, and that might work against you with 91 octain gas.

if you want to keep things relatively save, just turn up the boost to 15psi. that alone will be a night and day difference from where you are at now.

This post has been edited by lagos: Jun 3, 2007 - 2:42 PM

[toyotacrazy]

start out with a good quality boost gague.

i would steer clear of any ecu upgrades. a lot of times, they tune things too aggressive, and that might work against you with 91 octain gas.

if you want to keep things relatively save, just turn up the boost to 15psi. that alone will be a night and day difference from where you are at now.

Get the blitz type R boost controller, it has a built in boost gauge and is easy enough to use. It also has an overboost feature which you can increase or decrease. If you get the type R you can adjust up to 37 psi. If you get the type S its only good up to 17 psi. GET THE TYPE R! I love mine

[phattyduck]

isn't your exhaust ... like ... crazy loud?

Heh... you can only hear is car from about 1 large block away.

-Charlie