Intercooler Water, Question for the W/A guys Options

[Defgeph]

I'm just wondering what causes this water to rise and fall in the video below. I open the bleeder on the heat exchanger while filling it with water. So I know thats full of water. Is this normal operation? Or is there still air in there.

Water pump is wired to run constantly. The car is not running in this video, you are hearing the fans running. I forgot to shut them down.



Thanks guys,
DEF

[Supersprynt]

When you open my cap its not nearly as high, and it just swirls on the inside. As long as theres constant fluid & motion I wouldn't be concerned. Maybe you have a seal going bad?

What fluid are you using?

This post has been edited by Supersprynt: May 29, 2007 - 10:43 AM

[lagos]

looks normal to me. the water will rise and fall based on the speed of your pump. any changes in idle, will make the pump run slightly faster/slower, causing the water to go up and down. just like when you take your radiator cap off, and rev the engine.

[Supersprynt]

I think this coming weekend I'll be flushing mine and doing a distilled/wetter mix.

[Defgeph]

The pump is hard wired. The car in not running in this video. Idle or amount of throttle would not affect its operation the way it hooked up right now.

[lagos]

oh....so your ic pump is that loud? dang. i though the motor was running! lol

[Defgeph]

I think this coming weekend I'll be flushing mine and doing a distilled/wetter mix.

Don't use water wetter. It will corrode your aluminum. I use distilled water and a non corrosive water coolant additive. This stuff is made for race cars, recommended by a few old school racers. I'll get the name of the product over the weekend for you. I have the bottle in my car.



Fans are running in this video.

[Supersprynt]

I searched the AT forums for that exact reason, couldn't find anything regarding the corrosion?

[Defgeph]

I don't have any hard facts. I can clearly remember the conversation I had with a guy. Told me Its not going to happen over night. But it does age the seals on the pump and is corrosive.

Pro race car companies will use Water Wetter all day. This is because at the end of the day they'll put in a fresh motor for the next race. If you are not looking to replace anything related to the water system don't use it.

[Kadett]

I just use Toyota Coolant Red for it. Works fine and isnt expensive (have 50 procent discount on all fluids @ toyota dealer) Had to refill (small amounts) it a few times when I replaced the heat exchanger for a new one. Never seen it rise up or down and the car was running at idle rpm.

[playr158]

We use Watter wetter in our bikes and cars down here and never had any issues?
a "conversation had with a guy" sounds like hearsay...unless there is some testing?

distilled water + water wetter is good for as long as you don't run it during freezing temps (for freezing you wana go with the 50/50 way)

[lagos]

i think what jeff is talking about is damage to the electric water pump. its just like with water injection pumps. on some of them you cant use 100% meth because it will damage the seals inside the pump, over time.

but since you are mixing it with water, i dont think it could cause any real damage. then again, who knows.

[Defgeph]

I just use Toyota Coolant Red for it. Works fine and isnt expensive (have 50 procent discount on all fluids @ toyota dealer) Had to refill (small amounts) it a few times when I replaced the heat exchanger for a new one. Never seen it rise up or down and the car was running at idle rpm.

For year round driving thats the best bet. I only drive my car in the warmer months. Distilled water with an additive is the way to go for a few of us. The amount cooling is incredible.

[Defgeph]

i think what jeff is talking about is damage to the electric water pump. its just like with water injection pumps. on some of them you cant use 100% meth because it will damage the seals inside the pump, over time.

but since you are mixing it with water, i dont think it could cause any real damage. then again, who knows.

You are correct sir. The lifespan on parts associated in the water system would not last as long. Diluted or not, you still have a corrosive property in the system. The system was designed for a 50/50 mix of coolant and water. Not water and a methanol based product.

[Supersprynt]

Found this while doing research:

http://www.wc101.com/reviews/Additives/



This post has been edited by Supersprynt: May 29, 2007 - 12:17 PM

[playr158]

nice find SS

Designed for modern aluminum, cast iron, copper, brass, and bronze systems.”

Lubricates water pump seals, Protects cooling system metals from corrosion and cavitation, Improves heat transfer.

so the earlier claim on corrosiveness to aluminum was hearsay...and incorrect, no?

This post has been edited by playr158: May 29, 2007 - 12:20 PM

[Defgeph]

Found this while doing research:

http://www.wc101.com/reviews/Additives/

Try it, tell us what you think. I wouldn't mind switching brands if they offer a better product. I'm in for the coldest possible temps, while maintaining safe operation.

I could try to find the Valvoline Zerex Racing Super Coolant. Thats the only product that mentions seals, the pump, and everything in between. We can test them out.

[phattyduck]

I use about 20% Toyota Red coolant, a little watter wetter (maybe 1/4 to 1/8 a bottle) and the rest distilled water. My car will never see temps below about 25*F.

I get the little frothy bubbles too, but not so much with the level going up and down. I wouldn't worry too much about it though. When the radiator cap is on there, it shouldn't happen nearly as much.

-Charlie

[Defgeph]

I'm just curious as to why it doesn't level its self off.

I think it might have something to do with the pump not being mounted under the frame rail in the stock position. I'll soon fix this, its becoming annoying to see in the engine bay.

I'll see if the reposition fixes the problem. Anyone else ever see this ?

[cheeco]

It could be a couple things:
1. there is still air in the system
2. the mixture is too dilute, causing the pump to cavitate and generate bubbles
3. straight battery voltage may be a little high, causing the pump to spin too fast and cavitate like #2 (i dont know if the ecu controls pump speed or not when hooked up correctly)

Id recommend trying 50/50 or throwing a voltage regulator in the wiring to adjust its speed. My W2A setup (stock st205) with 50/50 stays fairly level and doesnt froth up like that.