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> BRAKE PAD REPLACEMENT...., Any suggestion of tools needed...steps?
post Jun 22, 2007 - 12:33 AM
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chacha

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Are there any write up upon how to change the brake pads and if needed any special tools to pop out the pads or loosen or tighten the calipers...do i need to bleed the brake lines? brake fluid? BASically i need help with the guideline to change my brakes...i don't want to waste a lot of money for paying the shop to do the work for me...installing EBC brake pads...aftermarkets...any tip is appreciated thanks in advance... wink.gif biggrin.gif
post Jun 22, 2007 - 2:26 AM
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malpaso



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1. remove wheel:
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2. remove one of those screws...
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...like this:
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3. remove pad springs (there are two of them)
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4. remove old pads
5. install new pads
6. now you most likely would need to pull back the caliper piston!

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tips:
- when compressing the caliper piston you need to pull the cap off the brake fluid reservoir in the engine bay
- lubricate the inside of the pistons inside the rubber seal

7. assemble everything together (don't forget about those pad springs!)

hope that help a bit wink.gif

This post has been edited by malpaso: Jul 1, 2007 - 1:44 AM


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post Jun 22, 2007 - 1:56 PM
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LewFX



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step 1: drive to lewfx's pad
step 2: have lewfx do it for $20!
step 3: waa laa

This post has been edited by LewFX: Jun 22, 2007 - 1:56 PM


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post Jun 22, 2007 - 1:58 PM
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tomazws



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QUOTE(LewFX @ Jun 22, 2007 - 11:56 AM) [snapback]571316[/snapback]

step 1: drive to lewfx's pad
step 2: have lewfx do it for $20!
step 3: waa laa



x10000


Mr. Lew is fast, professional, has all the tools, and better yet, you can check out his pimped out 99' Celica GT!


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post Jun 22, 2007 - 2:02 PM
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LewFX



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i also check your car out for any other problems, if your low on brake fluid i fill it. but you should trim your rotors if you get new pads. or get new rotors and pads


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post Jun 22, 2007 - 3:00 PM
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chacha

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what would you recommend for the rotors type? i see the slotted holes type and then there are those with the lines marked on type....

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post Jun 22, 2007 - 3:23 PM
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lagos



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honestly ... slotted or drilled rotors are just for looks. they actually stop worse then normal blank rotors ... at least thats what i noticed with my own car and what others have told me about their rotors.


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post Jun 29, 2007 - 6:26 PM
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alltracman78



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Naw, crossdrilled tend to stop faster.

The rotors are just more apt to crack.

I had a set on my rears a while back.
No problems and felt pretty good.

I just havn't bothered to source another set.
I don't like buying cheap rotors.


As for the brakes, if you lube the ears of the new pads with brake grease they will slide easier.
Also, clean out the clips on the caliper bracket to help them slide.

And it's actually a little easier if you remove both bolts and hook the caliper onto the strut spring.
Just MO.


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post Jun 30, 2007 - 1:26 AM
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malpaso



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QUOTE(chacha @ Jun 22, 2007 - 10:00 PM) [snapback]571338[/snapback]

what would you recommend for the rotors type? i see the slotted holes type and then there are those with the lines marked on type....
...

here another older topic about rotors. That should help as well smile.gif

This post has been edited by malpaso: Jun 30, 2007 - 1:27 AM


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post Jun 30, 2007 - 10:46 AM
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95CelicaST



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QUOTE
And it's actually a little easier if you remove both bolts and hook the caliper onto the strut spring.
Just MO.


This is what I've always done. Take out both bolts and take some wire and hang the caliper on the spring.


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post Jul 10, 2007 - 8:53 PM
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Ve1Ls1dEvolutioN

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any how to on rear brake drums?? i need to help my friend change his 97 ST....i converted mine ST to GT rear disc which was a paint in the a$$
any info would be great
post Jul 10, 2007 - 11:43 PM
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95CelicaST



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QUOTE
any how to on rear brake drums?? i need to help my friend change his 97 ST....i converted mine ST to GT rear disc which was a paint in the a$$
any info would be great


Take off the wheel and stick a bolt into the hole on the drum. Turn it in and the hub will pop off. If the pads are worn down completely I would take the drums to a shop to have them turned. Then pop the spring off that connects the two shoes ( I think there is one on top and one on the bottom) and replace. Put the drums back on and call it a day.


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post Jul 11, 2007 - 7:05 PM
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Ve1Ls1dEvolutioN

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QUOTE(95CelicaST @ Jul 10, 2007 - 9:43 PM) [snapback]577200[/snapback]

QUOTE
any how to on rear brake drums?? i need to help my friend change his 97 ST....i converted mine ST to GT rear disc which was a paint in the a$$
any info would be great


Take off the wheel and stick a bolt into the hole on the drum. Turn it in and the hub will pop off. If the pads are worn down completely I would take the drums to a shop to have them turned. Then pop the spring off that connects the two shoes ( I think there is one on top and one on the bottom) and replace. Put the drums back on and call it a day.


u make it sound so easy...LOL
post Jul 19, 2007 - 3:20 AM
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chacha

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i have been thinking a lot lately about getting new rotors too and i came up upon this....big brake...brand is KSPort which i have never heard of before....anyone has these or experiences with these?

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Ksport Procomp Big Brake Kit
Toyota Celica (AT100/ST202) 94-99/Part# KSP-BKTY150-8331S-O / MSRP $2,650.00
Ksport big brake kits provide the ultimate in stopping power for your vehicle. Integrating new brake technology into the design of the kits allows for a kit that highly reduces brake fade and continually cools and refreshes the brake pads surface under braking. These brake systems are designed for easy installation with minimal tools required (in most applications).
The Ksport big brake kit includes:
# 8-Piston Aluminum calipers
# High quality brake pads
# D.O.T. Compliant Stainless steel brake lines
# Machined aluminum hats
# Carbon steel brackets
# 330mm (13") large ventilated discs (17" wheels required)
# Ksport SC5 street brake pads (RC1 race pads available for additional cost)
Extreme Lightweight Caliper:
Our extreme lightweight caliper comes in differential bore configuration. It is machined from aircraft quality billet, weighs just over 5lbs. each, and has machined in protection grooves for the bridge tubes. Aluminum pistons, high temperature seals, and stainless steel brake pad wear plates are also standard on each caliper design. The opposed piston caliper design greatly improves pad wear and caliper rigidity over the OEM design. The stainless steel brake lines stop expansion under pressure.
High Performance Rotor:
Most applications utilize the 2-piece floating disc assembly which reduces weight both rotating and unsprung. The floating disc also stops thermal stresses of extreme heat from warping the disc or cupping the braking surface. The unique slot design on the rotor greatly reduces braking noise and expels gas and pad debris faster than conventional slot designs. Every rotor is always heat treated and balanced before shipment for the best possible performance.
Ksport SC5 Street Pads:
These NAOC ceramic pads are designed to give you the optimal braking performance under street and occasional track conditions. Optimal operating temperatures are between 194°F - 1022°F for fast warm up under normal driving conditions. These pads reduce the amount of brake dust by 50% or more when compared to our race pads. The SC5 pads also greatly reduce the amount of noise and wear on the rotor over the race pads. The average coefficient of friction on this pad is between .46 and .53.
Ksport RC1 Race Pads:

These carbon metallic race pads are designed to give you the best stopping power possible under extreme track conditions. Optimal operation temperatures are between 480°F - 1472°F so it is not recommended for street use due to high temperature needed for optimal performance. Designed for the racer in mind to reduce brake fade under extreme conditions. The average coefficient on this pad is .5.

This post has been edited by chacha: Jul 19, 2007 - 3:21 AM
post Jul 19, 2007 - 8:35 AM
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alltracman78



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Those pads aren't going to bite when you first brake.
They need to be hot to work, so you're going to have to brake hard all the time to get any actual bite.

While it looks like a nice upgrade, do you really want to spend $2600+ on the brakes for your car?
And do you have 17s?

Bascially IMO not for your car.


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post Jul 24, 2007 - 8:39 PM
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FnC3L1CA

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Just bought new Brembo rotors, Hawk HPS Pads, and whatever shoes partsandaccessories.com carries. Will let yall know how things go in about 4 to 7 business days.
post Jul 25, 2007 - 12:41 AM
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chacha

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yeah i got 17 and i plan to go 1-2 inch higher...someday, i was reading about big brakes and there are some great reviews on it...it's somewhere in the forum, but they said, it can be good for an upgrade to the stock brake calipers and rotors because it can be use for race or for normal drive...ill see if i can find post...I plan to keep my car no matter what and push more power if possible when i have the funds...

BIG BRAKE TALK

This post has been edited by chacha: Jul 25, 2007 - 12:42 AM
post Jul 25, 2007 - 9:29 AM
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playr158



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If you read that thread shoulda learned...big brakes aren't for you and going to be a waste of money

run brembo blanks or I-rotors (or other good quality slotted and/or drilled) rotor
EBC green stuff was a pad i was really happy with on the celica.
SS brake lines and FLUSH your old fluid and replace with Valvoline syth dot4

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