bad oil leak. Options

[2slow2nervous]

Ok i was driving yesterday and my car started smoking. So i pulled over and looked under my car and i have oil dripping onto my dp and burning off making smoke. So i drove home and it just got worse and worse. When i finally got home i stoped had a good size puddle of oil under my car and have no idea were it is coming from. No oil leaks when the is sitting only when im driving. Can any1 help me?

[Delta_Phoenix]

Ok i was driving yesterday and my car started smoking. So i pulled over and looked under my car and i have oil dripping onto my dp and burning off making smoke. So i drove home and it just got worse and worse. When i finally got home i stoped had a good size puddle of oil under my car and have no idea were it is coming from. No oil leaks when the is sitting only when im driving. Can any1 help me?

Erm... just general guesses. Oil sending unit not tight, valve cover, head gasket, oil filter not tight. I'm assuming you're talking about the front side of the downpipe just off the manifold. If it's on the rear of the engine, the only thing that comes to mind is valve cover or head gasket. Most oil leaks won't occur when idling because of decreased oil pressure. My 7A throws out a quart a day, but doesn't leak at all at idle. Sit in it for 5-10 minutes at about 2500 rpm and see what happens. Do a UV dye test if you still have trouble finding the leak.

[56willysnut]

Also check the front of the engine where the oil pump mates to the block, If it only leaks at rpm my guess that the gasket between the block and oil pump has gone tits up. Clean engine in this area and drive it a short time after topping off oil.

[Delta_Phoenix]

Also check the front of the engine where the oil pump mates to the block, If it only leaks at rpm my guess that the gasket between the block and oil pump has gone tits up. Clean engine in this area and drive it a short time after topping off oil.

Yeh. This is where mine is leaking (understatement) from. It sucks big. After I get about 2 quarts low it isn't a terrible leak, but still annoying nonetheless.

[vile_v]

maybe its a common thing for the oil pump cover seal and gasket to go, but yes mine is leaking there too.

if it is leaking there you in for some bad news, i was quote 10 hours labours to replace the gasket (98$/hour) thats as much as an engine swap.. considering you can't do it yourself. good luck though.

ps im trying to make an seal outside of the o.p.c. and hope it works.

[Delta_Phoenix]

maybe its a common thing for the oil pump cover seal and gasket to go, but yes mine is leaking there too.

if it is leaking there you in for some bad news, i was quote 10 hours labours to replace the gasket (98$/hour) thats as much as an engine swap.. considering you can't do it yourself. good luck though.

ps im trying to make an seal outside of the o.p.c. and hope it works.

working on this right now. it's not that difficult. big learning experience for me. if you can take out nuts and bolts, you can do this job. i got the seal in tonight after searching for a parts store that had it in stock. tomorrow morning the reassembly...

the hardest part to this job is getting the crank cover off. there are tons of 4mm allen screws holding it in, several that are very hard to get to. had to remove the crossmember to get ONE of them out, but other than that, it's not very difficult. you'll need some black RTV, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm sockets, a 4mm allen wrench or socket (socket would be much better, i was stuck with an allen wrench and a 12mm wrench to break them loose), and some elbow grease. after the cover is off, it's smooth sailing. i'll get pics in case you decide to do this yourself.

[vile_v]

i have all the directions to do it. Its just i dont have the equipment. for example pulley removers. Also to add on top of that working on the cement floor while you car is jacked is kinda hard to use all your might to turn those stuck nuts.

my engine is almost poop, waiting for my new one anyways. but anyways tell us how it goes

[Delta_Phoenix]

i have all the directions to do it. Its just i dont have the equipment. for example pulley removers. Also to add on top of that working on the cement floor while you car is jacked is kinda hard to use all your might to turn those stuck nuts.

my engine is almost poop, waiting for my new one anyways. but anyways tell us how it goes

everything went smooth. had a little trouble with a stripped bolt for the oil pan. hopefully the RTV will hold up =)

you won't need a pulley puller. the crank pulley came off by hand easily along with the timing sprocket. if your's are stuck you can stick screwdrivers behind them and pry against the oil pump, but put a few rags between the screwdrivers and pump to protect it. the most frustrating part of this whole thing was having to take the a/c compressor off along with the bracket that it attaches to, just to get one bolt in.

i was working on a gravel driveway with a sheet of cardboard while it was raining =) a cement floor would have been a blessing.

if you're going to tackle this the only advice i have is to make sure you have a tool to get the old RTV off (i used a dremel and a stainless steel brush wheel), some brake cleaner to prep the surfaces before you apply new RTV, and DO NOT remove the key from the crankshaft once you have the pulley and sprocket off. it won't fall out, and it was a PITA getting it back in.

oh and make sure you have a breaker bar or a 6" long piece of pipe that will fit around the end of your ratchet. there are only a few bolts that i had to use a breaker bar on. you'll also need a 17mm socket if you have to drop the crossmember to get bolts out. maybe your bolts are in better shape than mine were and you won't have to.

This post has been edited by Delta_Phoenix: Jun 28, 2007 - 9:12 PM

[vile_v]

i have all the directions to do it. Its just i dont have the equipment. for example pulley removers. Also to add on top of that working on the cement floor while you car is jacked is kinda hard to use all your might to turn those stuck nuts.

my engine is almost poop, waiting for my new one anyways. but anyways tell us how it goes

everything went smooth. had a little trouble with a stripped bolt for the oil pan. hopefully the RTV will hold up =)

you won't need a pulley puller. the crank pulley came off by hand easily along with the timing sprocket. if your's are stuck you can stick screwdrivers behind them and pry against the oil pump, but put a few rags between the screwdrivers and pump to protect it. the most frustrating part of this whole thing was having to take the a/c compressor off along with the bracket that it attaches to, just to get one bolt in.

i was working on a gravel driveway with a sheet of cardboard while it was raining =) a cement floor would have been a blessing.

if you're going to tackle this the only advice i have is to make sure you have a tool to get the old RTV off (i used a dremel and a stainless steel brush wheel), some brake cleaner to prep the surfaces before you apply new RTV, and DO NOT remove the key from the crankshaft once you have the pulley and sprocket off. it won't fall out, and it was a PITA getting it back in.

oh and make sure you have a breaker bar or a 6" long piece of pipe that will fit around the end of your ratchet. there are only a few bolts that i had to use a breaker bar on. you'll also need a 17mm socket if you have to drop the crossmember to get bolts out. maybe your bolts are in better shape than mine were and you won't have to.

doesn't sound so hard now. probably gonna give it a try if my other experiment fails. lol thanks for the tips.

cement floor outside, luckly its super sunny here so yeah no rain.. i remeber painting my old car with spray can paint, next thing you know it would be pouring.. i know how you feel.

the engine and bolt condition are probably worst than yours, most are somewhat rusted, but on the bright side good muscle workout

[Delta_Phoenix]

on the bright side good muscle workout

lots of knucklebusting opportunities as well