!!5sfte!!, the second coming! Options

[6strngs]

from my tuner guy, he said t-clamps suck...theres another product out there for half the price of a tclamp... it surrounds the pipe and clamps unless t-clamps one way tightening

I'm not really sure what you're referring to...

[LewFX]

referring to t-clamps for ic piping

[presure2]

Weird bends and angles, but hey it works.

that was just a test fit, it won't look that wierd when it's finished.

Manny, the return line is -10AN and the feed line is -4AN.

the feed should be NO larger than -3an, with a restrictor.
you should know that by now.

lew, unless you have beaded pipes, and or aluminum piping, tbolts are just fine. if they ARE beaded, and or aluminum, ya just cant overtighten them.
constant tension clamps are IMO the best ones of all, asside from the 250$ EA wiggins clamps but theyre definetly not cheaper than the t-bolts.
when i redo my piping here at some point, thats what i'll be using.

[6strngs]

Weird bends and angles, but hey it works.

that was just a test fit, it won't look that wierd when it's finished.

Manny, the return line is -10AN and the feed line is -4AN.

the feed should be NO larger than -3an, with a restrictor.
you should know that by now.

lew, unless you have beaded pipes, and or aluminum piping, tbolts are just fine. if they ARE beaded, and or aluminum, ya just cant overtighten them.
constant tension clamps are IMO the best ones of all, asside from the 250$ EA wiggins clamps but theyre definetly not cheaper than the t-bolts.
when i redo my piping here at some point, thats what i'll be using.

I'm going be using a restrictor for the line, I don't see how it'll be a problem though as with a restrictor the same amount of oil is going to enter the line anyway. The guy who made the kit said he's used -4AN lines on CT-26's all the time without any problems.

btw, I got my oil pan back and the drain line did turn out to be about an inch too short, so I'm taking the line to a shop to see how much it would cost for a slightly longer line, hopefully they can reuse the hose ends cause I'm just about out of money at this point...

[celicast3sgte]

GIT-R-DONE!

[6strngs]

well, took the line to the shop and he looked at it and said it's definately not an AN hose. it's SAE. anyway, he said he could make me a hose using stainless steel hose ends for $55, then he suggested an AN hose, but when he looked at the price, just the one 90 degree hose end would cost about $40! I didn't get either yet, I'm going to look into some other options.

[presure2]

Weird bends and angles, but hey it works.

that was just a test fit, it won't look that wierd when it's finished.

Manny, the return line is -10AN and the feed line is -4AN.

the feed should be NO larger than -3an, with a restrictor.
you should know that by now.

lew, unless you have beaded pipes, and or aluminum piping, tbolts are just fine. if they ARE beaded, and or aluminum, ya just cant overtighten them.
constant tension clamps are IMO the best ones of all, asside from the 250$ EA wiggins clamps but theyre definetly not cheaper than the t-bolts.
when i redo my piping here at some point, thats what i'll be using.

I'm going be using a restrictor for the line, I don't see how it'll be a problem though as with a restrictor the same amount of oil is going to enter the line anyway. The guy who made the kit said he's used -4AN lines on CT-26's all the time without any problems.

btw, I got my oil pan back and the drain line did turn out to be about an inch too short, so I'm taking the line to a shop to see how much it would cost for a slightly longer line, hopefully they can reuse the hose ends cause I'm just about out of money at this point...

guy, are you thick headed.
the person who REBUILDS these turbos, who has been doing them for years, swears by no larger than 3an.
especially in a car that overfeeds the turbo as it is, why would you use a larger line??
ive been running mine for 2.5+ years.
have you read arts sig lately?

[6strngs]

having a couple days off from school, and a day off work, I've really been going at it today. I've gotten alot done. here's a pic of my crankshaft, notice the clean oil pan surface I spent probably about 2 hours cleaning!


here's a pic of all the parts that still needed to be installed, of course, I took this pic a few hours ago and have half of it in by now


here's a pic of my downpipie, wrapped with exhaust wrap and then painted with a high-temp silicone protectent paint. should keep the downpipe from rusting due to the exhaust wrap trapping moisture, plus it looks cool to have a flat black downpipe, lol.


and here's a pic of the front of my engine block. I cleaned it up a little bit, it still looks dirty, but it's waayy cleaner than before. and I put some heat wrap stuff around my oil cooler lines to keep them from melting again!


I've also got the filter relocation kit and the turbo, manifold, downpipe assembly installed. next up I'm going to get the IC piping all trimmed down and installed, then the gauges and SAFCII all wired up. after that, I just have to get an oil drain line made, get a battery and everything to relocate it, an intake set-up put together, then fill it up with oil and coolant and it'll be good to go!! hopefully...

[jcaron9gt4]

Where is your coolant lines for your turbo coming from?

[6strngs]

Where is your coolant lines for your turbo coming from?

I tee'd off from the throttle body coolant lines.
here's a pic showing the final fitment of the hot side of my IC piping. much cleaner IMO.


now I've just gotta cut two pipes and the cold side should be finished too. then just gotta do a lot of wiring. I'm so tired though, I don't know if I'm gonna do all that tonight.

[celicast3sgte]

nice work man, looks good

[6strngs]

here's two pics to show the current state:



still needs the BOV put on, the gauges and SAFCII hooked up, the longer drain line made and installed, a battery and installation of that, an intake which I hope to pick up today, and I need one more T-bolt clamp cause for some reason I have an odd number of them and came up one short. I'm pretty sure the battery will still fit in the engine bay, the routing of the IC piping I chose really leaves a lot more room in that area. I just need to go back later and do a better job at hiding a bunch of wires around that area. anyway, I probably won't get much time this weekend to work on it, but I hope to have it done next week fingers crossed

(take note of how shiny the starter is! lol, I had to buy a new one because the other one was destroyed as a result of my electrical "problem")

[CaliJeff]

what did u use to clean off all those surfaces ? engine degreaser?

[6strngs]

what did u use to clean off all those surfaces ? engine degreaser?

brake parts cleaner. IMO it works better than engine degreaser.

update! last night I got an intake set-up put together, and then I hooked a battery up to my car. with my fingers crossed, I hooked it up and just hoped for the best. nothing! no burning, no smoking, nothing went wrong! I got in, turned the key to the ON position, and my radio works, my headlights work, everything appears to work!!! this is great news as it means I didn't fry every electrical component on my car! the car is only days away now. I got my new oil drain line today, I just have to put that on, wire up the SAFC II and my gauges, and fill it with some fluids and it'll be ready to start!

[jcaron9gt4]

good to hear man...glad you didnt give up after your first try

[OOBE]

[/quote]
guy, are you thick headed.
the person who REBUILDS these turbos, who has been doing them for years, swears by no larger than 3an.
especially in a car that overfeeds the turbo as it is, why would you use a larger line??
ive been running mine for 2.5+ years.
have you read arts sig lately?

[/quote]

It's beyond me how he went with that craziness. It's such a simple, hiccup-free process to get the right size of lines. The info is everywhere on the forums.

[6strngs]

I plan to get an early start tomorrow morning and get it all finished up as much as I can. I hope to have it started by tomorrow night, but no promises.

as for my feed line, has anyone ever even tried anything other than a -3AN on a 5sfte before? besides, the difference between -3AN and -4AN is a mere 1/16th of an inch O.D. the inner diamter on AN hoses can vary.

AN sizes range from -2 (dash two) to -32 in irregular steps, with each step equating to the OD (outside diameter) of the tubing in 1/16" increments. Therefore, a -8 AN size would be equal to 1/2" OD tube (8 x 1/16 = 1/2). However, this system does not specify the ID (inside diameter) of the tubing because the tube wall can vary in thickness. Each AN size also uses its own standard thread size.

[presure2]

I plan to get an early start tomorrow morning and get it all finished up as much as I can. I hope to have it started by tomorrow night, but no promises.

as for my feed line, has anyone ever even tried anything other than a -3AN on a 5sfte before? besides, the difference between -3AN and -4AN is a mere 1/16th of an inch O.D. the inner diamter on AN hoses can vary.

AN sizes range from -2 (dash two) to -32 in irregular steps, with each step equating to the OD (outside diameter) of the tubing in 1/16" increments. Therefore, a -8 AN size would be equal to 1/2" OD tube (8 x 1/16 = 1/2). However, this system does not specify the ID (inside diameter) of the tubing because the tube wall can vary in thickness. Each AN size also uses its own standard thread size.

your a meatball man.
people have tried all KINDS of hoses for feed lines.
you think i just chose 3an line as a figure i pulled out of my head?
there is a REASON.
when the guy who rebuilds ct-26's for a LIVING tells you to use 3an, do you say, well, 4an will be fine..?

[celicast3sgte]

I plan to get an early start tomorrow morning and get it all finished up as much as I can. I hope to have it started by tomorrow night, but no promises.

as for my feed line, has anyone ever even tried anything other than a -3AN on a 5sfte before? besides, the difference between -3AN and -4AN is a mere 1/16th of an inch O.D. the inner diamter on AN hoses can vary.

AN sizes range from -2 (dash two) to -32 in irregular steps, with each step equating to the OD (outside diameter) of the tubing in 1/16" increments. Therefore, a -8 AN size would be equal to 1/2" OD tube (8 x 1/16 = 1/2). However, this system does not specify the ID (inside diameter) of the tubing because the tube wall can vary in thickness. Each AN size also uses its own standard thread size.

your a meatball man.
people have tried all KINDS of hoses for feed lines.
you think i just chose 3an line as a figure i pulled out of my head?
there is a REASON.
when the guy who rebuilds ct-26's for a LIVING tells you to use 3an, do you say, well, 4an will be fine..?

wow dude, be easy on the guy. do you take the word of everyone you meet and read about online without asking a question or two? i mean you've said on the forums your just another guy like us learning as you go. hes learning. your right -3an is the best generic answer to use.

as for 6strngs, what presure2 means to say is the -3an is the best gauranteed answer to work. a -4an line with a restrictor without knowing exactly the size of the hole in that particular restrictor, you wont know for sure your getting the right flow. SO he "STRONGLY SUGGESTS" you run a -3an.... END OF DISCUSSION.

and please no more "are you dense?!" comments. help is help. bashing is bashing.

[OOBE]

He is not bashing him. It just gets on his nerves that he's giving him the right info in a very streamlined manner, and the guy keeps arguing and trying to do his own thing. Just because he's learning about the 5S-FE doesn't mean he doesn't have vast knowledge of turbo system components, like for instance, AN lines. What is your "and please no more "are you dense?!" trying to mean? What are you going to do if he doesn't stop? I don't think you're in the right position to tell the man what to do. I think you need to stay in your corresponding lane.