!!5sfte!!, the second coming! Options

[OOBE]

This is what I'm atalking about. Some of you kids get pissed when I reply to your posts. If you're going to post such non-sense, you need to have the thick skin to take what others have to say instead of getting pissy and smart-ass about it.

"I'm fixing my radiator fan which was broken before. the motor fell out of the blade cause it was hooked up wrong"
How did that happen?

"btw, I got my oil pan back and the drain line did turn out to be about an inch too short"
What's so hard about taking a piece of string and measuring the distance between the two components? I mean, it worked with helicopters I worked on when I was in the Army.

"I put some heat wrap stuff around my oil cooler lines to keep them from melting again!"
Rubber lines for an oil cooler? Plus, the lines are supposed to be as far from a heat source as possible, so the cooler can effectively do, you know, what it's supposed to do.

"I tee'd off from the throttle body coolant lines."
Aren't those coolant lines supposed to run hot coolant to warm up the throttle body during cold weather? What are you doing feeding hot coolant to your turbo?

I'll be back with some more.

[OOBE]

" If there are any issues down the road I will swap out the hose for a -3AN. "
Refer to Lagos' signature.

"well, a small coolant leak sprung before I started the car, but it was easily trace-able and I just needed to tighten down two bolts and it was fine after that."
If you would've checked throughly prior to starting it, it wouldn't have happened. It's too damn easy to do post-maintenance checks. Again, refer to Lagos' signature.

"I still need to wire in my gauges before I do anything else.
I need to be able to monitor my oil pressure and air-fuel ratio at the least before I'd feel safe letting the car run for more than a minute or two."
See, then you complain when stuff doesn't go the way it should. You do "everything" and forget one, if not, the most important thing in a turbo setup? Why did you even start up the car, then? What's the hurry if it's not properly finished?

"I kind of regret going with the SAFCII instead of the NEO this time around. The SAFC was way cheaper and can measure knock, but the Neo was much more user friendly and it looked way nicer IMO.
Cheaper, huh? First, cheap is not a healthy word when turbocharging any Celica. Second, why are you doing this if you don't even have the proper funds for it? Piecing it first makes much more sense than straight-up getting to business without having everything you need. You cannot even make up your mind on what fuel management to use.
First you want the Neo, then you get the S-AFC II because it has knock sensor, and now you want the Neo again because it's more user friendly and looked oh-so-much nicer? Didn't you have time to think what you wanted previously? It's called planning.

"because I think I broke the seals. There are seals between the transmission and the axles, right?"
What? You THINK you broke the seals, but you're not sure if those seals even exist? I don't know what else to say. That statement right there speaks for itself.

"'cause whatever it is I broke it and I need to know what it is before I can replace it."
That sounds about right.

"meh, $600 tops on airfare, $150 for me to take 3 days off work, and maybe $400 tops for me to have a hotel and food for 3 days, so $1150 for a turbo install in 3 days, provided you have all the parts, that's less than what a shop would probably charge for this kind of install."
After reading all your obvious mistakes, I don't see how anybody would trust you with a wrench on their car.

"*sigh* it's leaking a ton of coolant from the turbo coolant lines. I'm pretty sure it's only the gasket."
Your constant guessing is the cause for all your troubles. Stop guessing and inform yourself properly before attempting anything else. The information is out there.

"I was wondering though, would it hurt anything to just use some RTV sealant as a gasket temporarily, or to just run it only oil cooled."
Wow. This project involves that aspect, which is pretty basic, and you're not aware of it? By the way, have you read Lagos' signature lately?

"Coolant leak is fixed, but now the car leaks oil, and fuel, and it still leaks transmission fluid..."
I wonder why? Seriously, you need to put down the wrench and get your head out of your ass. Some may say I'm overly-critical. Take it as you wish. Before anybody pulls out the "bash card", I'm not bashing. I'm pointing out things that grabbed my attention. I'm sure most [of the few mature individuals here that don't get hurt by constructive criticism and don't always (and only) expect mad props, praises, compliments and "attaboys", especially when posting things of this nature] will agree with what I wrote. "Oh, nobody is perfect. Everybody makes mistakes" Yeah? That's not an excuse to keep repeating them, especially when they could've been easily avoidable had you instructed yourself properly prior to even buying a part or picking up a wrench. Hmmm, hurley97 is a great example. She's covering all her bases before even attempting anything. Mad props to her. It's not like the homework wasn't done for you already. The information is in this site. You must've missed it. Google is your friend, also. Have a nice day.

Edited for typographical errors. For the ones not in the know, English is not my first language.

This post has been edited by OOBE: Dec 5, 2007 - 5:12 AM

[Supersprynt]

And that's all I got to say about that.

Use the knowledge of the Jedi, young padawan.

[6strngs]

Yeah, it's hard, but it's not hard to check the o-ring BEFORE installing the injectors. It's not hard to pull everything apart and give it a through look to make sure it's good to go. You're making too many easily-avoidable mistakes, and i['s costing you money. I'm just trying to understand why didn't you inspect EVERYTHING (meaning each single component that's part of the engine or related) before even starting up the car. I'm not trying to flame. I'm just trying to get you, because I don't.

I did check out all the O-rings and gaskets before installing them. I checked over everything multiple times to be sure I wasn't forgetting anything, I spent a lot of time preparing things so they would be done right the first time. I made sure all bolts were tight, I made sure all electrical connectors were secure and connected correctly.

This is what I'm atalking about. Some of you kids get pissed when I reply to your posts. If you're going to post such non-sense, you need to have the thick skin to take what others have to say instead of getting pissy and smart-ass about it.

"I'm fixing my radiator fan which was broken before. the motor fell out of the blade cause it was hooked up wrong"
How did that happen?

the screws that hold the motor into the shroud were not screwed through the shroud into the motor, just through the motor and thus were not doing anything. the motor was held in place only by the one nut on the other side of the fan blade. And it worked for a long while. It was not broken when I installed my koyo radiator, and was broken before I removed it. Eventually the blade just broke in the center and the motor was not secured by anything. the motor did not actually fall out. I noticed the blade was loose, and was able to pull the motor out without any effort. This is not my fault but the previous owner's/the mechanic of the previous owner for not installing it correctly.

"btw, I got my oil pan back and the drain line did turn out to be about an inch too short"
What's so hard about taking a piece of string and measuring the distance between the two components? I mean, it worked with helicopters I worked on when I was in the Army.

yeah, I did measure it. but did not account for exactly where on the oil pan the bung needed to placed so that it would not interfere with the baffles. therfore the hung needed to be moved over an inch from where I had originally planned to position it, thus making the line too short to reach it.

"I put some heat wrap stuff around my oil cooler lines to keep them from melting again!"
Rubber lines for an oil cooler? Plus, the lines are supposed to be as far from a heat source as possible, so the cooler can effectively do, you know, what it's supposed to do.

uh... yeah... that's what they came with stock! I never touched them, one metled simply because of it's close vicinity to the downpipe. I didn't re-route them or replace metal lines with rubber ones...

"I tee'd off from the throttle body coolant lines."
Aren't those coolant lines supposed to run hot coolant to warm up the throttle body during cold weather? What are you doing feeding hot coolant to your turbo?

hey guess what, that's what everybody else on the forum does. I even asked about how they should be routed and got my information from presure2. so perhaps you should be criticising him too along with everyone else on this website who has a 5sfte.

I'll be back with some more.

[Batman722]

oobie, where do you suggest tapping coolant from ?

[CaliJeff]

oobe, u may have completed ur 5sfte project successfully, but what give u the right to criticize like u did. u may be restating past questions and answering them belligerently, but how does that help him at all. I do think you owe him an apology man.

This post has been edited by CaliJeff: Dec 5, 2007 - 8:59 PM

[OOBE]

Apology for what? For quoting what he wrote and speaking my mind? All of a sudden I am Mr. Mean Guy for not posting smileys and buttkissery? What are these forums comprised of? Five year olds? Again, all that is expected here is, quoting by what I wrote earlier, is mad props, praises, compliments and "attaboys". God forbid somebody posts something other than laughs and anything not in a happy tone, and tears will be running and hearts will be broken in 6GC.net. It's apparent that I wasted my time in this thread, and all I did was upset some young hearts, instead of opening some eyes. I'm not wasting my time anymore with this. You want to go ahead and keep doing your thing? Be my guest. I'm not stepping in or reading this thread anymore. The least thing I need is to try to steer someone the right way, and get some defensive kids stick up for their "wounded" buddy that cannot take a little bit of heat from his own mistakes.

[6strngs]

Apology for what? For quoting what he wrote and speaking my mind? All of a sudden I am Mr. Mean Guy for not posting smileys and buttkissery? What are these forums comprised of? Five year olds? Again, all that is expected here is, quoting by what I wrote earlier, is mad props, praises, compliments and "attaboys". God forbid somebody posts something other than laughs and anything not in a happy tone, and tears will be running and hearts will be broken in 6GC.net. It's apparent that I wasted my time in this thread, and all I did was upset some young hearts, instead of opening some eyes. I'm not wasting my time anymore with this. You want to go ahead and keep doing your thing? Be my guest. I'm not stepping in or reading this thread anymore. The least thing I need is to try to steer someone the right way, and get some defensive kids stick up for their "wounded" buddy that cannot take a little bit of heat from his own mistakes.

Hah! point out my mistakes and steer me in the right direction? that's funny, cause that's not what I read. looked more like picking apart everything I said so you could make accusations and assumptions about how I'm doing everything so "wrong". Ok, so I stubbornly chose to use an oil feed line slightly too large for my application and suddenly I'm half-assing every single thing and not spending any time looking things over or double checking anything, cheaping out and trying to get away with the bare minimum? Now I'm a complete idiot who knows absolutely nothing about cars and is ignoring every single piece of advice (if you could call it that, more like criticism) given to me? come on! I've spent a considerable amount of time researching everything. and I've spent way more money then I ever planned on spending on this project. once I went over-budget, I tried to find a couple ways to cut some cost back, such as going with the cheap oil filter relocation kit. yeah, everybody said not to, but I know other people on this site were able to run for weeks/months with a similar set-up so I figured I could get by for a while. well, I had to learn my lesson the hard way. There have been a couple other things like that too, but for the most part, I tried to get the best I could for everything else. I've been thinking about and researching everything I could about the 5sfte for over a year. If you hadn't noticed, I've gone with a very different IC piping set-up than I had before. I didn't just throw it together for the heck of it, I spent hours measuring, test fitting, and rigging it up to get it just right. That's just an example for you of how carefully I've been trying to get this done RIGHT! I didn't start this thread until I was nearly complete. a few months ago everything was completely in shambles. to have like three tiny things go wrong out of the dozens of different things I had to do to get this car running again, I'd say I did pretty good. After all the work I did, it really doesn't feel good to be insulted for the three tiny things that went wrong, among other things that really weren't/aren't problems at all, you just felt like insulting me for them for the heck of it. /rant

anyway, if we could get this thread back on track like I tried to do before, I looked on Alldata tonight while I was at school for the procedure for replacing the fuel injectors. What it said to do was to apply a light coat of gasoline or some certain kind of oil (I can't remember the exact wording, but I think it meant like WD-40 or similar) to all the rubber rings before installation, which I did. then in bold letters it said "DO NOT APPLY ENGINE OIL, GEAR OIL, TRANSMISSION FLUID, DIESEL OIL, OR DIESEL FUEL TO ANY OF THE RINGS OR GROMMETS!"

[celicast3sgte]

heheh...

anyways hope it works out for ya man, dont bother askin a question or 2 if u dont know. and hey stuff happens when your making custom kits and not goin exactly the same route as the next guy. but whatever. do it right. get it runnin. get a good tune. and have some fun.

[zero07]

Hey oobe, i know you said you would stay out of this thread, (a good thing) but in case you do read this... "are you shi**ing me with all that rude BULLSH*T".
BTW im not some kid sticking up for a wounded friend, but a grown man that knows the difference between constructive criticism and being an AS*HOLE.

Sorry guys, just had to say it.

6strings, good luck with your build!

This post has been edited by zero07: Dec 6, 2007 - 1:01 PM

[lagos]

"DO NOT APPLY ENGINE OIL, GEAR OIL, TRANSMISSION FLUID, DIESEL OIL, OR DIESEL FUEL TO ANY OF THE RINGS OR GROMMETS!"

thats why wd40 is the best thing. its a thin penetrating oil that wont clog them up like motor oil could, yet it will lube them up enough so that they wont get damaged as you push them into the rail. i used it on my injectors and never had any issues.

This post has been edited by lagos: Dec 6, 2007 - 1:12 PM

[Supersprynt]

I think a lot of people here are spoiled because you have to be pretty nice in everything you say and aren't used to what the real world is like. There was an uproar because someone got called a meatball, I mean...wow.

The internet isn't a place for the thin skinned.

This post has been edited by Supersprynt: Dec 6, 2007 - 1:20 PM

[99GT]

Everyone is just trying to help out. I think what pisses people off is when they tell you something and you do something else. THEN you come back and complain why this and why that, when they already told you.

[6strngs]

So, on tuesday I pulled the injector and noticed the ring was broken, so that same day I went to a parts store and was able to get a new one. but by the time I got back, thanks to rush hour traffic, it was dark and I had to go to school only an hour later so I figured I would do it the next day, then I remembered I had plans for that day, so I told myself I'd do it today, but now it's raining and I don't want to get wet and I don't want to push the car into the garage by myself... so yet again it's not getting done. all I have to do is put a freaking injector back in. it would take like half an hour at most. just can't find the opportune moment.

[jcaron9gt4]

push it into the garage...and get this thing done! a little rain never hurt anybody

[presure2]

push it into the garage...and get this thing done! a little rain never hurt anybody

X2!!
yo, (sorry, dont know your real name..lol) 6strings, i may come off as a bit of a jerk most of the time, but its only cause im trying to help. i wanna see you be another one of the "team 5sfte" again!
i think most of the people here that actually know me would tell ya, i'll try and help ya anyway i can, if i can. even IF i come off as a dick.
lol

[6strngs]

push it into the garage...and get this thing done! a little rain never hurt anybody

X2!!
yo, (sorry, dont know your real name..lol) 6strings, i may come off as a bit of a jerk most of the time, but its only cause im trying to help. i wanna see you be another one of the "team 5sfte" again!
i think most of the people here that actually know me would tell ya, i'll try and help ya anyway i can, if i can. even IF i come off as a dick.
lol

by myself? the driveway is pretty steep, I highly doubt I'd be able to get the car up there unless I pushed it way over to the other side of the street to let it pick up speed, but then I'd for sure scrape the exhaust, if not the front bumper, on the driveway. once this car gets lowered I don't think it'll ever see the garage again, why do you think I've been trying to get all my engine work done before lowering it? lol, I'm jk of course. anyway, I'm gonna do it tomorrow rain or shine.

Manny, I know. This is why I did not respond to any of your posts angrily. I know you are genuinely trying to help me, as you've done many times in the past. I've learned a vast majority of my 5sfte knowledge from your thread and from asking you questions. So, no hard feelings?
My name's Nathan, btw

[6strngs]

well, I put it back together today. I got fed-up with having to wrench away at those two bolts that hold the fuel line in place so I went out and bought a wratcheting wrench. No I didn't have any before, and now I know what I've been missing! It normally took me like 15-20 minutes to get those two bolts in or out cause a ratchet can't fit in there, this time it took less than 2 anyway, I got everything fixed that I wanted to. in fact, I even was able to fix my alarm which had been broken since before I had even turbo-ed because I couldn't figure out why it was broken. I know I had shorted two wires accidentally, but I had checked all fuses and nothing was blown. well, while I had the engine in shambles I discovered a well-hidden wire that definately does not seem stock and it had a fuse outside the main fuse boxes, well, replaced that fuse and it works now. lol

The only thing I'm severly pissed about is that my wideband gauge is no longer working! the gauge gets power, but the signal is all F'ed up. it would read some wierd things like saying I was super lean at idle even though I could smell the gas and I knew I was super rich. then it worked for a bit and told me I was at a 13.7 AFR after I had leaned out idle about to get the car to smooth out, so that seemed right. but then at times is would just sit at some strange number like 14.1 and just stay there at idle, low, and full throttle. I checked all the connections for the signal and it should be working right. I'm wondering if the tip of the sensor is too fouled to get a good reading (it was very black from me running so rich), or if the sensor itself was somehow damaged in the time it spent out of my car... I dunno, but this gauge was expensive and I'm very sad it's not working.

anyway, no more gas leaks, no more coolant leaks, but some oil leaks have reared their ugly heads. The first time around, for the filter relocation kit, I had put teflon tape on all the threads and it never leaked from any threads, then I was told that teflon tape should only be used on the AN threads and not the NPT threads, so I put teflon only on the AN threads this time around and now it's not leaking from any AN threads, but it's leaking from ALL the NPT threads on the relocation kit and the oil drain line... it's not soo bad though. As long as I top it off with oil every day it should be ok to drive short distances. I might try to get teflon tape on all those NPT threads tomorrow after work, but we'll see.

only other thing is, I need to find some uber small hose clamps or somthing, cause my car likes to blow vacuum lines off the intake manifold! I noticed while I was driving it that my BOV stopped working and I could hear compressor surge, and then my car wouldn't idle lower than 2000 rpms. I blew the vacuum hose for the BOV off, and for the idle control valve. lol.

[lagos]

you can use zip ties on the vac lines.

[presure2]

well, I put it back together today. I got fed-up with having to wrench away at those two bolts that hold the fuel line in place so I went out and bought a wratcheting wrench. No I didn't have any before, and now I know what I've been missing! It normally took me like 15-20 minutes to get those two bolts in or out cause a ratchet can't fit in there, this time it took less than 2 anyway, I got everything fixed that I wanted to. in fact, I even was able to fix my alarm which had been broken since before I had even turbo-ed because I couldn't figure out why it was broken. I know I had shorted two wires accidentally, but I had checked all fuses and nothing was blown. well, while I had the engine in shambles I discovered a well-hidden wire that definately does not seem stock and it had a fuse outside the main fuse boxes, well, replaced that fuse and it works now. lol

The only thing I'm severly pissed about is that my wideband gauge is no longer working! the gauge gets power, but the signal is all F'ed up. it would read some wierd things like saying I was super lean at idle even though I could smell the gas and I knew I was super rich. then it worked for a bit and told me I was at a 13.7 AFR after I had leaned out idle about to get the car to smooth out, so that seemed right. but then at times is would just sit at some strange number like 14.1 and just stay there at idle, low, and full throttle. I checked all the connections for the signal and it should be working right. I'm wondering if the tip of the sensor is too fouled to get a good reading (it was very black from me running so rich), or if the sensor itself was somehow damaged in the time it spent out of my car... I dunno, but this gauge was expensive and I'm very sad it's not working.

anyway, no more gas leaks, no more coolant leaks, but some oil leaks have reared their ugly heads. The first time around, for the filter relocation kit, I had put teflon tape on all the threads and it never leaked from any threads, then I was told that teflon tape should only be used on the AN threads and not the NPT threads, so I put teflon only on the AN threads this time around and now it's not leaking from any AN threads, but it's leaking from ALL the NPT threads on the relocation kit and the oil drain line... it's not soo bad though. As long as I top it off with oil every day it should be ok to drive short distances. I might try to get teflon tape on all those NPT threads tomorrow after work, but we'll see.

only other thing is, I need to find some uber small hose clamps or somthing, cause my car likes to blow vacuum lines off the intake manifold! I noticed while I was driving it that my BOV stopped working and I could hear compressor surge, and then my car wouldn't idle lower than 2000 rpms. I blew the vacuum hose for the BOV off, and for the idle control valve. lol.

nate,
you have the teflon tape thing backwards.
you never have to use tape on AN fittings, they are a pressure fit.
NPT on the other hand, requires the thread tape.