 Fuel Pressure Regulator, PSI setting ????? |
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 Aug 16, 2003 - 4:25 PM
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 Enthusiast  Joined Sep 27, '02 From UK Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%)  |
OK, I'm in the process of installing my aftermarket fuel pressure regulator.
Installation seems pretty straight forward. However, when I come to set it what PSI can I go to? The manual states between 38-44 PSI as standard. Can I increase the PSI over 44, if so to what PSI? Also, what PSI can the standard Fuel Pump cope with? Any help would be greatly appreciated. BTW: I have a '97 ST with standard injectors, an Injen IS2040 intake, Denso Idridium spark plugs and Magnecor KV85 spark plug wires. |
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Aug 16, 2003 - 4:46 PM
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 Enthusiast Joined Oct 27, '02 From Barbados Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
I think the standard psi is 35+.
You can set to a high value, but try not to go over 50psi on stock injectors. If you have a SAFC, then 44+ is possible, if not, you will fun to rich. -------------------- West_Minist
Hydra EMS Dealer & Tuner Subaru ECUFlash Tuner http://www.socob.bb http://xtremeracingtuning.com Viciously Tuned, Driven Hard  |
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Aug 17, 2003 - 12:34 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Sep 27, '02 From UK Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
West_minist thanks for the info.
I think I'll start at 40 PSI considering I have an intake on (increased air flow). Then, after I have everything I want installed, I'll get the car dynoed and play around with the pressure to see what the best setup is. |
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Aug 17, 2003 - 1:09 PM
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 Enthusiast Joined Mar 6, '03 From South Central Los Angeles and Long Beach, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
I'm getting a SAFC II for my st-185 swap. What should i do about the AFPR? What brand? At what psi? Where can i get one pretty quickly?
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Aug 17, 2003 - 2:12 PM
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 Enthusiast Joined Aug 30, '02 From Anaheim, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
you wont need one for the st185, you could spend the money on other things first -------------------- 1994 Celica GT4 WRC Edition
@gt4.wrc on Instagram |
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Aug 17, 2003 - 2:24 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 6, '03 From South Central Los Angeles and Long Beach, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
I won't need one at ALL or NOT YET? I plan on running close to 300hp? |
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Aug 17, 2003 - 2:33 PM
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 Enthusiast Joined Aug 17, '03 From Bangkok, Thailand. Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
If you can, get an A/F meter before you adjust any fuel press. Too much fuel(rich) can slow your car down as well.  |
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Aug 17, 2003 - 2:38 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 17, '03 From Bangkok, Thailand. Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
300hp!! Wow.... I think what you should get first are bigger injectors. Stock 430cc can't take you there. May I know what psi of boost are you aiming for ??
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Aug 17, 2003 - 4:33 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 27, '02 From Barbados Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Get a Autometer A/F Ratio meter. That will help you. You do not really have to dyno to feel the results. Test driving and drving behind your car will let you know. Expect some back firing, but not way too much where gas will be wasted. I like this. 
This post has been edited by west_minist: Aug 18, 2003 - 8:35 PM -------------------- West_Minist
Hydra EMS Dealer & Tuner Subaru ECUFlash Tuner http://www.socob.bb http://xtremeracingtuning.com Viciously Tuned, Driven Hard |
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Aug 17, 2003 - 7:36 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Sep 27, '02 From UK Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
In order to play it safe, I'm going to initially set the fuel pressure to the standard settings as indicated in the Haynes manual I have, that is, in the range of 38-44PSI.
Gauges are on the list of items to buy soon... AutoMeter A/F Ratio, Fuel Pressure and Temperature. I'm also in on the Lotek Pillar 3 Gauge group buy. However, I want to get a header and high flow cat first. Later on I'm looking at uprating the fuel pump and injectors. For those that are curious, I'm looking doing a 7afCe (A compressor setup). That will give me better acceleration than a Turbo set up (no lag). ...and if that's not enough there's always Nitrous! 
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Aug 17, 2003 - 10:46 PM
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 Enthusiast Joined Aug 29, '02 From Dallas, Tx Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
That is totally incorrect. You absolutely CANNOT tune a car properly by the seat of your pants. Don't even bother trying, you'll just mess it up. The autometer a/f gage is also NOT A TUNING TOOL. You can't use a narrow band O2 sensor to accurately tune the a/f ratio due to the sensors non-linearity. Get the car built, get it running and drive it carefully to a dyno that has a WIDEBAND O2 sensor. There you will be able to correctly and safely tune your car. That is the only way to do it right and its well worth the couple hundred bucks it will cost. |
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Aug 18, 2003 - 6:15 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Sep 27, '02 From UK Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
Thanks for the advice.
I installed my Cosmos Racing AFPR today. I set the pressure to 40PSI. I then revved the engine "fiercely" to see what the gauge reading was doing. Interestingly enough it rises to about 45PSI when I increase the throttle abruptly and when I let the throttle off abruptly it drops to about 35PSI. It idles at 40PSI. This seems good to me and safe as it is within the manufacturers setting range of 38-44PSI. BTW: Having fitted the Injen IS2040 intake, Denso Iridium plugs, Magnecor KV85 spark plug wires and AFPR, I took it for a spin and noticed a substantial difference in acceleration. When I have my other parts fitted (exhaust, header, high flow cat, underdrive pulley) I'll being getting it dynoed correctly. |
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Aug 18, 2003 - 8:28 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 27, '02 From Barbados Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
I love that word "absolutely" Why spend that moeny with other mods are needed. Set a basic psi with the autometer help and then go for a full tune on the dyno. But in no means a dyno is needed. I know that there are not linear and will not operate properly at 100% throttle. I am aware of wide band o2 sensors. The aim here is to get to sterio. and be alittle rich, but not too rich and never be to lean Even if 100% rich, so what!  All that will happen is black smoke, hard starts, and lost of HP & Tq and most of all, wastage of gas. My advice also to him is to check his mileage and see if your o2 sensor will need replacing. This will take full advantage in this first step of tuning. This post has been edited by west_minist: Aug 18, 2003 - 8:39 PM |
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Aug 18, 2003 - 10:45 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 29, '02 From Dallas, Tx Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Why spend the money on any mods if you're not going to allow them to work properly? Why not just install a fake BOV? Its the same thing. First of all, there is no such thing as "sterio." I believe the abbreviation you're looking for is stoich. which stands for stoichiometric. This is the optimum combustion ratio of gasoline and air and is 14.7:1. Different cars actually prefer to be at different ratios. Some cars will make peak power when they're a little lean, others when they're a little rich. There isn't much danger in going a little lean on an N/A car. Generally an engine will make the most power at about 13:1 but again, this varies from engine to engine and car to car. Turbo and SC cars are a total exception (don't ever go lean on them). Being too rich is just as bad as being too lean on an n/a car. It will cause lower cylinder temperatures which will make less power, produce more emissions, and will produce excessive carbon deposits in the combustion chamber, on the exhuast valves, and in the exhuaust runners. Carbon deposits in the combustion chamber will result in 'hot spots' which will eventually cause detonation. This detonation will destroy your engine in just the same way that being overly lean will. If you're '100% rich' all of the above things will happen rather rapidly on the street. I sure wouldn't say 'so what' if it was my engine. If your O2 sensor were bad, then it would trigger a CEL. If it isn't bad, there will be no light. There is no advantage in changing it out for another properly working stock unit....if it aint broke.... It is possible to tune an engine on the street, but no matter how you do it, you have to have a wideband to do it right. You sir, are 'absolutely' incorrect. 
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Aug 19, 2003 - 12:36 AM
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 1, '02 From Minnesota, USA Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Toyceli8, don't bother with the SAFC2. How about skip the wiring crap and the SAFC2 and get a standalone engine management system. such as the PRS8 over at PerfectPower.
-------------------- 95 Toyota Celica GT
Dead for now --> Soon to have a 3S-GTE 02 WRX --> This is for speed - Borla Exhaust - TurboXS BOV - Custom CAI 02 Civic EX - MB Quart Reference 5.25" Components - Rockford MTX 8" Subs in the doors - Alpine Type S Rear Fills - 2x Alpine SWR-1042D Subs in a custom fiberglass box - Alpine F345 Amp for the front doors - Alpine M605 on each Type R - Phoenix Gold wiring - Alpine CDA-9855 Head Unit - Alpine Amp link - 2x Rockford Fosgate 1 Farad Caps - The best Viper 791 alarm install ever |
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Aug 19, 2003 - 5:08 AM
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Enthusiast Joined Sep 27, '02 From UK Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
One very very basic thing that has been overlooked is...spark plug colors.
They give a very good indication as to whether you are running to rich or too lean. Also, something to bear in mind is that the standard ECU uses the standard sensors to track and adjust the A/F ratio electronically. So I'm assuming that even with an S-AFC connected (but not set) its the ECU that is managing everything. To gain optimum performance the S-AFC has to be set correctly and IMHB the best way is to get dynoed. |
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Aug 19, 2003 - 6:51 AM
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 27, '02 From Barbados Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
I believe unlike you, he is not going to be racing or always looking for that little bits for each part added to win that race.
Why put him through the added rising expense when more can be done before a full tune. You think just by adding a AFR should demand one large tuning experience? We all know that different cars have different emission standard to some points. Some cars like to run lean because there are program to produce less emissions. So increase fuel is not always warrant. Just like the wrx aftermarket changes. Soo much is tied in tuning by the cpu, you have to know what you are doing. Who the hell would like goingthe street running rich. I believe he and other knows what it looks like to be running rich. The o2 sensor going bad would not trigger the ecu to display a faulty o2 sensor until it is really gone. Why you think that the bigger case like Mercedes and BMW are coming up early stats for sensors. I personally believe that there is a difference in need for race tuning and street tuning when advising someone. I just you should take him under your arm when he has done all of these dynos and let him have your successful career. Nice talking to you
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Aug 19, 2003 - 3:16 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 6, '03 From South Central Los Angeles and Long Beach, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
I'm goin 2 sound stupid but, what will the standalone engine management system do?? i can kinda guess just by the name but i guess i need a better explanation. |
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Aug 19, 2003 - 4:26 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 27, '02 From Barbados Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
It replaces your ECU and offer you flexibility in tuning and engine management in a nutshell.
-------------------- West_Minist
Hydra EMS Dealer & Tuner Subaru ECUFlash Tuner http://www.socob.bb http://xtremeracingtuning.com Viciously Tuned, Driven Hard |
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Aug 19, 2003 - 9:34 PM
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 Enthusiast Joined Aug 30, '02 From North Carolina Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
if anyone needs a FPR let me know. i have one with a gauge
adam -------------------- MISS THE CELI, BUT...
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