turbo timer Options

[dagreat1]

2nd 3sgte JDM Motor Swap Garrett T3/T04e 60 trim Polished Turbo(15psi) South Florida Performance turbo manifold SFP 3" downpipe Full 3" exhaust setup(resonator, high flow cat, flex pipe, apexi n1 muffler) Spearco Front Mount Intercooler w/ 2.5" pipes SAFC Supra 550cc injectors Wolfkatz high flow fuel rail 255lph walbro fuel pump Braided stainless fuel lines Tial 38mm wastegate 1993 MR2 E153 tranny ACT HD clutch kit(brand new) 13" Big Brake kit w/ Wilwood calipers GT rear disc brake conversion Japanese rear motor mount(not a custom mount) . Polished engine parts HKS SS blow off valve Magnecor plug wires

i know ya didn't need to know half of that, but w.e.

you are going to do more harm with the safc trying to control 550s, then you will by running without a turbo timer.

what do u mean?

[Supersprynt]

It's recommended you use a gauged FPR to turn the fuel up, then tune it down with the AFC.

This post has been edited by Supersprynt: Dec 4, 2007 - 6:40 PM

[lagos]

2nd 3sgte JDM Motor Swap Garrett T3/T04e 60 trim Polished Turbo(15psi) South Florida Performance turbo manifold SFP 3" downpipe Full 3" exhaust setup(resonator, high flow cat, flex pipe, apexi n1 muffler) Spearco Front Mount Intercooler w/ 2.5" pipes SAFC Supra 550cc injectors Wolfkatz high flow fuel rail 255lph walbro fuel pump Braided stainless fuel lines Tial 38mm wastegate 1993 MR2 E153 tranny ACT HD clutch kit(brand new) 13" Big Brake kit w/ Wilwood calipers GT rear disc brake conversion Japanese rear motor mount(not a custom mount) . Polished engine parts HKS SS blow off valve Magnecor plug wires

i know ya didn't need to know half of that, but w.e.

you are going to do more harm with the safc trying to control 550s, then you will by running without a turbo timer.

what do u mean?

i recommend you register to mr2oc, and search for "safc". its a great tool for minor adjustments on stock injectors (i use one!), but you get serious timing advance when you use it with bigger injectors, because of the large amount of correction that has to be made to make the car run right.

where did the car come from? did you buy it the way it is? whats the story?

[lagos]

i wouldn't like the E-brake as a safty..

only because when you are driving hard (IE track days/mountain runs)
you are braking hard, this brake heat normally lasts just as long as your engine heat.
when you stop you shouldn't be applying your e-brake, but leaving your car in gear to hold it.
having an e-brake applied on heated brakes can easily cause severe rotor damage.

any suggestions for another way to safeguard, for those who fall under that catagory?

dan, what do you mean?
a turbo timer gets wired to the ebrake. if anyone tries to let the brake down, it turns off the car. thats how the safety feature works.

[playr158]

i wouldn't like the E-brake as a safty..

only because when you are driving hard (IE track days/mountain runs)
you are braking hard, this brake heat normally lasts just as long as your engine heat.
when you stop you shouldn't be applying your e-brake, but leaving your car in gear to hold it.
having an e-brake applied on heated brakes can easily cause severe rotor damage.

any suggestions for another way to safeguard, for those who fall under that catagory?

dan, what do you mean?
a turbo timer gets wired to the ebrake. if anyone tries to let the brake down, it turns off the car. thats how the safety feature works.

i know how it works read what i wrote.

If you are out hard driving and come to a stop, situations such as track days, or driving on a hard twisty road and stopping at a gas station. you need to get out of your car. you do not apply your parking brake. you simply leave the car in gear.

why do you do this?!
READ whats quoted above

you are braking hard, this brake heat normally lasts just as long as your engine heat.
when you stop you shouldn't be applying your e-brake, but leaving your car in gear to hold it.
having an e-brake applied on heated brakes can easily cause severe rotor damage.

thus if you have no parking brake applied, how are you going to use the TT since its safety wired to your ebrake..

come on now.

[Supersprynt]

Doesn't the ebrake have a seperate set of shoes inside the rotor, and doesn't use the calipers, eliminating the risk of warping?

Yes this is what I thought. I couldn't remember but after double checking:



The e-brake doesn't use the calipers, so there no chance of warping the rotor.

This post has been edited by Supersprynt: Dec 4, 2007 - 11:21 PM

[lagos]

yeah dude, the ebrake has its own shoe that contacts the inside of the center section of the rotor. it wont do any damage to your rotors or brakes after hard driving.

This post has been edited by lagos: Dec 5, 2007 - 3:18 AM

[thespacepanda]

The point exactly. The e-brake engages the brake drum, not the rotor. Even in the GT with its 4 wheel disc there is a small brake drum inside the rotor housing that engages when you pull on that e brake. The rotors heat up, yes, but the e-brake does not lock these. Unless you're using your handbrake for most of your stopping (which you should be slapped if you're doing), leaving the e-brake on with hot rotors will have little to no effect.

This post has been edited by thespacepanda: Dec 4, 2007 - 11:42 PM

[Kadett]

3 minutes just seems like a waste of gas to me; especially with the water cooling.

It's blasphemy on this forum but anyway: I like to do a bit of high speed driving on the highway. Only when it's about empty or a few cars on it (I slow down to about 15mph above limit when passing other cars). When driving the car up to 5-7k rpm (doing about 100-112mph) the manifold itself is red glowing of the heat . Now you can tell me many things but I do think its better to let the engine (and the 400-500 degrees C manifold) cool down for 3 minutes with spirited driving like I described.

This isn't really on issue anymore since I keep a slow (low rpm) pace to last 2-3 miles) when going home.