grinding from back brakes, grinding from back brakes Options

[CelicaST94]

when i press lightly on the brake pedal the rear one(s) grind like a GGGRRRRREEEEEWWWWRRRRRR...

[hurley97]

you need brakes.

either the shoes are worn or the drums are grooved

[CelicaST94]

when i press lightly on the brake pedal the rear one(s) grind like a GGGRRRRREEEEEWWWWRRRRRR...

soundds good ill try that

[njccmd2002]

if you are already grinding, you may need to resurface or buy new discs too

[hurley97]

if you are already grinding, you may need to resurface or buy new discs too

he has an ST. they are drums

[njccmd2002]

still, the inside of the drums if grinded will make the new shoes go quicker..

[hurley97]

still, the inside of the drums if grinded will make the new shoes go quicker..

I was referring to your statement about buying discs

if you get new shoes you need to resurface or buy new drums as well, otherwise the new shoes will wear into the grooves and make a crap load of noise, but not necessarily wear faster.

[CelicaST94]

still, the inside of the drums if grinded will make the new shoes go quicker..

I was referring to your statement about buying discs

if you get new shoes you need to resurface or buy new drums as well, otherwise the new shoes will wear into the grooves and make a crap load of noise, but not necessarily wear faster.

wow everyone on here is so helpful! Thanks for your advice.I made an appt.on saturday for brakes and I'll have em look at the drums too.even though I bought a haynes/clymer manual I still don't know what the hell I'm doing..

[CelicaST_CALI]

have u tried adjusting them??

[njccmd2002]

still, the inside of the drums if grinded will make the new shoes go quicker..

I was referring to your statement about buying discs

if you get new shoes you need to resurface or buy new drums as well, otherwise the new shoes will wear into the grooves and make a crap load of noise, but not necessarily wear faster.

oh, no worries.

wow everyone on here is so helpful! Thanks for your advice.I made an appt.on saturday for brakes and I'll have em look at the drums too.even though I bought a haynes/clymer manual I still don't know what the hell I'm doing..

its easy as pie. I used the chilton.. same difference.



This post has been edited by njccmd2002: Jan 24, 2008 - 4:07 AM

[GriffGirl]

if your rear drums are still in spec, make ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that you have them surfaced! I bought my car in July from someone who obviously did SEVERAL "slap jobs" on the brakes, slapping new pads on and both my drums AND rotors have a lip! It can get VERY expensive if you have to pay a shop to do the job for you (I was quoted $550! )

Needless to say I told them hell no, and I'm saving up to buy the parts & do the job myself.

[Hanyo]

if your rear drums are still in spec, make ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that you have them surfaced! I bought my car in July from someone who obviously did SEVERAL "slap jobs" on the brakes, slapping new pads on and both my drums AND rotors have a lip! It can get VERY expensive if you have to pay a shop to do the job for you (I was quoted $550! )

Needless to say I told them hell no, and I'm saving up to buy the parts & do the job myself.

you can get those lip on the drums turned. But if you can, but new rotors/drums. If your lip on the drum gets too severe, it might prevent you from taking off the drum.

If your car squeaks, it could be brake dust build up inside the drum. Its a big problems with drum brakes because the dust has no where to escape to, unlike disk brakes. So a simple cleaning can do wonders.