Distributer Postion?, Pics please Options

[supra12big]

Hi, i had my dis. set to almost the lowest point, but then i checked my buddies 2 and his was set higher, so i changed it, i know I should check the timing, but can someone give me pics on how their timing on the dizzy is set, thanks

[x_itchy_b_x]

Sorry man but it doesn't work like that.
everyones will be different, copying other peoples position doesn't mean anything. you need to put a timing light on there and do it right.

[supra12big]

aight, well i marked a line where my old one used to be, it was all the way at the bottom, it didn't seem to right, soo i guess i will get the timing gun out, now i am a noob at that, what am i suppose to be trying to line up or something

[x_itchy_b_x]

when the car if fully warm and idling you move the distributer back and forth until the line on the crack pulley is lined up with the 10* line on the timing cover. you need the guns pickup on cylinder number 1. the cylinder closet to the distributer.

when that is done and it still feels wrong make sure your belt didnt jump a tooth by making sure everything still lines up to 0* cams and crank.

[DEATH]

Don't forget to bridge TE1 and E1 in the diagnostic port over by the brake master cylinder.

On topic: What's this tachometer thing the manuals say we have to hook up to do base timeing? I've never done that before but 2 seperate manuals [Chiltons and something on-line like BGB] say to do so.

[x_itchy_b_x]

good call. I was just going off of memory and I haven't had to do the bridging thing the last couple times, forgot all about that part.

[DEATH]

I absolutely love how helpful this site has become in the last 6mos. Years ago you could expect 5 rude comments to every 1 helpful answer.

BTW - Do you know what's up with that tach adapter thing? I mean I own a tach adapter but it's for a MSD ignition for our cars and I don't think that is the same thing.

[lagos]

I absolutely love how helpful this site has become in the last 6mos. Years ago you could expect 5 rude comments to every 1 helpful answer.

BTW - Do you know what's up with that tach adapter thing? I mean I own a tach adapter but it's for a MSD ignition for our cars and I don't think that is the same thing.

Timing should be set at warm idle with te and e1 bridged. You dont need to connect a tach.

[DEATH]

I didn't use one but of course did it when it was warmed up and it seemed to work fine. Just was wondering why they said that and what was the purpose. I've done timing many times on S and A series engines and never heard that before.
Thanks for the confirm Lagos

This post has been edited by DEATH: Feb 7, 2008 - 4:50 PM

[supra12big]

okay, will do, and yes this site is the best for fast responses and helpful people

[supra12big]

k quick question, the light flashes, i point it on the crank pull, no where am i suppose to see a mark on the pulley, and then move it back and forth untill it lines up with that mark?

[DEATH]

k quick question, the light flashes, i point it on the crank pull, no where am i suppose to see a mark on the pulley, and then move it back and forth untill it lines up with that mark?

You will see it - don't worry. Watch the pulley itself and it'll be obvious.

[Insanity-74]

. you need the guns pickup on cylinder number 1. the cylinder closet to the distributer.

A question more than a statement.............. but I thought that cylinder number one was the cam side of the enigine???

[x_itchy_b_x]

you could be right. Whats messed up is, i have always been told its closet to the timing belt also. but my chiltons says otherwise. but chiltons have been wrong before soo... Actaully it must be wrong because i have my firing 100% opposite from the diagram in the chiltons. so yeah, cylinder number 1 from some googling is in fact the one closet to the belt. Good Call!

im gunna scan it tonight

This post has been edited by x_itchy_b_x: Feb 11, 2008 - 1:13 PM

[Insanity-74]

you could be right. Whats messed up is, i have always been told its closet to the timing belt also. but my chiltons says otherwise. but chiltons have been wrong before soo... Actaully it must be wrong because i have my firing 100% opposite from the diagram in the chiltons. so yeah, cylinder number 1 from some googling is in fact the one closet to the belt. Good Call!

im gunna scan it tonight

I wasnt sure...its just that the 3sgte engine cylinder number one is the cam end of the engine, I assumed that the rest oy the engines would follow the same format.

[Insanity-74]

Something I wrote for the GT4 owners club if it helps.......pretty much the same for any car

....dead easy this one and something you can do in ten mins, the only tools you will need are a timing gun, a 12mm socket, 10" extension bar and a ratchet.

Timing gun £40 from any motor factors



Start off by warming the car up to running temp...indicated by the fans coming on, once you have done this you need to bridge E1 and TE1 as you would when checking for error codes...this disables the ECU`s automatic timing adjustment and gives you a rock steady timing mark.

(Be carefull when bridging E1 & TE1...I accidently touched another connector and blew the ECU fuse. Nit a major issue, but If you have an incorrectly rated fue in it might blow the ECU itself. (ECU fuse should be 15AMP)

Bridging E1 & TE1



Next up connect the Timing gun to the battery Pos and Neg



Then connect the timing gun sensor to spark plug lead number one, at the timing belt side of the engine



Now your ready to check the timing......start the engine.....move to the side of the car and point your timing gun down here. Your looking for the 10 or 0 deg timing marks on the cam belt cover, and the little nick on the cam pulley to line up



There are two ways to proceed from here, either set the timing gun advance to 10 or zero degrees. If you set it to 10 deg, then you need to look at the zero deg mark on the cam belt cover, if you set the timing gun to zero deg then you have to look at the 10deg mark on the timing belt cover.

Make sure you are looking square on to the timing mark so that your line of site is from the timing gun, to the timing mark on the cover, to the centre of the crank pulley....if you dont look square on then it will look as if the timing is further out than it may be, or appear to be wrong when it is in fact spot on.

If the timing isnt spot on (half a degree out is acceptable)then a way of finding out how far out you are is to move the dial of the gun untill the timing mark on the pulley wheel matches up with the timing mark on the cam belt cover.



As you can see from the picture my timing was out by just under 2 degrees.

To adjust the timing you will need to undo these two 12mm bolts(ST205)
But not too much, just enough to allow you to twist the dizzy cap. Twisting with the direction of rotation of the engine retards the timing, against the rotation of the engine advances it,

(Warning - do not run the engine with these bolts loose in any way)

Adjust the timing until you are appy that the engine is running 10deg timing, tighten up the bolts, double check the timing and your done. Unbridge E1 & TE1, remove the timing gun and go for a blast.

As ever, work safe

This post has been edited by Insanity-74: Feb 11, 2008 - 3:10 PM

[azian_advanced]

^ nice post, you should make a how-to thread on that.

[Batman722]

nice write up. Also, make sure the engine is at normal operating temp (fully warmed up).

[Hanyo]

BTW - Do you know what's up with that tach adapter thing? I mean I own a tach adapter but it's for a MSD ignition for our cars and I don't think that is the same thing.

the tachometer thing is for older cars without tachometers and you have no clue what RPM the engine is running at.

In order to set the right timing, you need the car to be idling at the correct rpm. If your car is idling at 1100rpm at 10 degrees is not the same at 800rpm at 10 degrees. make sense?

[Insanity-74]

BTW - Do you know what's up with that tach adapter thing? I mean I own a tach adapter but it's for a MSD ignition for our cars and I don't think that is the same thing.

the tachometer thing is for older cars without tachometers and you have no clue what RPM the engine is running at.

In order to set the right timing, you need the car to be idling at the correct rpm. If your car is idling at 1100rpm at 10 degrees is not the same at 800rpm at 10 degrees. make sense?

It is if you disable the timing advance/retard on the ECU, the 10 degrees advance should be the same no matter what RPM your running at within reason.