HOW TO TURBOCHARGE THE 7AFE Options

[jesterwr217]

starting my own how to on turboing the 7a because there were some areas of the install where i just kinda had to make educated guesses so hopefully this will help others
Ok lets get started...
First removal:
To start off simply remove the stock headers and whatever intake you have on your car
Like nik lets start with the fuel setup:
Fist is the fuel pump. The stock 7a fuel pump is not sufficient enough to support a turbo setup so the plug and play alternative for our cars is the supra 255lph pump. First open you gas door and gas cap while doing this to relieve pressure. To get to the stock pump remove your rear seat and you will see a plate held on by 4 screws with an electrical harness going through it. remove this panel and you will see where the harness plugs into another panel, remove that harness to make the next panel more accessable. once you remove that harness remove the two lines attached to the top of the panel. the next step is to remove the 8-10 screws holding the second plate on and the fuel pump will come straight out. remove the pump and replace it with the new one then reinstall it in the car.
Now there are 2 different ways to continue this:
the first way is the "ghetto way" and is only safe to about 8psi. for this setup you will take the vortech fmu and run the bottom line to the fuel line comming from the back of the car and the top line to the fpr.



the vaccum port on the top will splice into the vaccum for the fuel pressure regulator



with this "ghetto" setup you will also use check valves in the vaccum line for your stock map sensor so it can see boost



now the correct way is forget about the fmu and the check valves, instead you replace your map sensor with the 3sgte 2 bar map



and use the supra 315cc lime green injectors



Oil Lines:
First we'll start with the feed line. You can order this kit from the same place i did and it comes with everything you will need. here The 7a has an oil temp sensor that provides a perfect tap point for the oil supply



use the supplyed t fitting and threaded fittings to create a t for the oil feed



attach the supplyed stainless steel line and we will come back to the feed line when we get the turbo in
remove your oil pan you will need to go to napa or some place like napa and get a 3/4 inch galvanized hose fitting. now what i did was take my pan and the fitting to an exhaust shop and had them drill a hole and weld it in.



on a side not do NOT use anything under 3/4 inch for the return line because you will restrict oil flow
tired of typing more to come tomorrow

This post has been edited by jesterwr217: Apr 9, 2008 - 10:05 PM

[addictions]

sick write up so far man keep it coming for us noobs that want to try this! what size turbo you going to run?

"now the correct way is forget about the fmu and the check valves, instead you replace your map sensor with the 3sgte 2 bar map"
ok i know this is more than likely a dumb question but can you show us were they 3sgte map sensor thing goes and how it hooks up b/c i have know idea at all and it would be nice to know how to avoid the "ghetto" way of doing this lol

This post has been edited by addictions: Apr 9, 2008 - 10:03 PM

[jesterwr217]

sick write up so far man keep it coming for us noobs that want to try this! what size turbo you going to run and why you going to do it the "ghetto" ya if their is a better way? just wondering one

actually i pulled my turbo kit and its for sale in the buy/sale forum now lol but its a custom built t3 and the ghetto setup is what i had when i was running 8 lbs and the right setup is what i ended with while running 10...the better is with the 2 bar map and the bigger injectors with a tune

[southwest2118]

sick write up so far man

+1

temp sensor? or pressure sensor?

[jesterwr217]

sick write up so far man

+1

temp sensor? or pressure sensor?

i was told oil temp but i could be wrong

[southwest2118]

sick write up so far man

+1

temp sensor? or pressure sensor?

i was told oil temp but i could be wrong

its pressure

[jesterwr217]

sick write up so far man keep it coming for us noobs that want to try this! what size turbo you going to run?

"now the correct way is forget about the fmu and the check valves, instead you replace your map sensor with the 3sgte 2 bar map"
ok i know this is more than likely a dumb question but can you show us were they 3sgte map sensor thing goes and how it hooks up b/c i have know idea at all and it would be nice to know how to avoid the "ghetto" way of doing this lol

see where the check valves plug into thats your stock map sensor you just take it off the bracket uplug the harness and replace it with the new 2 bar map

[jesterwr217]

ok cant sleep so i guess ill keep going
ok so now putting the turbo on:
my advice go ahead and attach the manifold and oil fittings to the turbo before you put it in the car it will make it much easier to work with



now line the holes on the manifold up with your head bolts and tightn it down (always use new gaskets btw)



now that you have the turbo on attach the feed line and make sure your using an oil pressure reducer because the oil pressure is way too high on our engine
after youve done that its time to do the return line
now like i said before do not use anything under 3/4", keep it away from the DP, and keep it as straight as possible




now for the filter relocation kit
its really simple all you do is screw the plate on where you would put the oil filter on the block , find a place to mount your bracket that holds the oil filter, then run the lines. Now there is a trick when you start the car after installing this watch your oil pressure light if it doesnt go off TURN YOUR CAR OFF then switch your lines because theyre on backwards





ok now onto intercooler piping
we'll start from the throttle body and work our way to the turbo
the first piece is going to have to have a hole drilled in it and the grommet in your intake put in for your IAT sensor



the piping is pretty self explanitory but i took pics one by one starting at the TB and goin to the turbo so here they are























***side note make sure you bolt down your intercooler ...loose parts = recipie for disaster



ok done for tonight tomorrow vac lines gauges and anything i missed and im also gona be doing separate write ups on the co2 spray and installing the safcII

[presure2]

wow...thats some SERIOUS getto rigging.
-1

[jesterwr217]

wow...thats some SERIOUS getto rigging.
-1

whats seriously ghetto rigged?

This post has been edited by jesterwr217: Apr 10, 2008 - 2:30 PM

[jesterwr217]

ok vac line time
ok if your going to use the ghetto fuel setup then weve already gone over the fmu and check valves vaccum hook ups...if your going to use the rught setup then dont worry about it because youll be using the existing lines as they are stock
ok so well take a look at where to tap in the BOV and boost gauges
youll want to use the vac source on the back of the intake manifold because thats the best spot



if you notice above there are 2 lines comming off the back make sure you use the one on the passenger side i made the mistake of tapping into the drivers side one and when i would turn my ac on and my idle would be crazy turns out that goes to your idle up selenoid
now off the line youve tapped run it all the way to the vac port to your BOV
now somewhere in the middle your going to want to cut that line to tap into for your boost gauge



so now as listed in oobes donts we are going to block the engine from seeing boost
your going to take the line connecting the pcv valve to the intake manifold and put in an oil catch can





now for the wastegate
external or internal this is a good tap point
i used the other vac line going from the valve cover to the intake manifold





ok for now thats it gona go grab a bite to eat baseball practice and ill be back to finish up

[addictions]

if i put the map sensor in instead of running whats on the car and be limited to 8psi what kinda of software/hardware do i need to tune it like a wind band A/F unit or something like that?

[jesterwr217]

if i put the map sensor in instead of running whats on the car and be limited to 8psi what kinda of software/hardware do i need to tune it like a wind band A/F unit or something like that?

you will need a wideband and at least a piggyback system and youll have to have the bigger injectors in

This post has been edited by jesterwr217: Apr 10, 2008 - 2:31 PM

[presure2]

brass T fittings, rubber oil lines next to a 900+* turbo, and CHECK VALVES?!?!
getto.
all bad ideas IMO.
it may work for ya...for now.., but thats not how to get ANY turbo motor, especially a 7a or 5s, to run properly and more importantly RELIABLY for any length of time.

[jesterwr217]

brass T fittings, rubber oil lines next to a 900+* turbo, and CHECK VALVES?!?!
getto.
all bad ideas IMO.
it may work for ya...for now.., but thats not how to get ANY turbo motor, especially a 7a or 5s, to run properly and more importantly RELIABLY for any length of time.

not sure whats wrong with the t fittings but oil lines are fine but not the best stainless steel lines are the best and as i stated the check valves and fmu are not the right way to go about it

[Celiracer18]

i think that instead of having threads on the bare minimum way to do it we should have a good one about the RIGHT way to do it. (kinda like Manny did.....)

there have been multiple threads on this and I don't see this one doing anything different

This post has been edited by Celiracer18: Apr 10, 2008 - 4:39 PM

[jesterwr217]

i think that instead of having threads on the bare minimum way to do it we should have a good one about the RIGHT way to do it. (kinda like Manny did.....)

there have been multiple threads on this and I don't see this one doing anything different

if you look in the first part of the thread i tell you what to use....im more than happy to change things if people see im doing something wrong because im trying to make a thread to help people not hurt them

[nik]

i got away from the valves after i put in my greddy emanger

[jesterwr217]

i got away from the valves after i put in my greddy emanger

exactly why i said thats the ghetto way to do it and not recomended

[presure2]

brass T fittings, rubber oil lines next to a 900+* turbo, and CHECK VALVES?!?!
getto.
all bad ideas IMO.
it may work for ya...for now.., but thats not how to get ANY turbo motor, especially a 7a or 5s, to run properly and more importantly RELIABLY for any length of time.

not sure whats wrong with the t fittings but oil lines are fine but not the best stainless steel lines are the best and as i stated the check valves and fmu are not the right way to go about it

well, brass Ts are a VERY bad idea, because they are brass.
brass is a soft metal, that fatiuges easily when subjected to the vibrations they see attached to an engine, especially if you tap into it for an oil feed for the turbo, and a pressure sender for an oil gauge.
what happens is, over time, the metal fatiuges to the point that it cracks. 99% of the time, it will crack when your driving, and before you have a chance to realize whats going on, all your oil is gone, and you've either blown your turbo, and or your motor, cause you didnt spend 25$ on a steel fitting like the tunertoys one.

those rubber lines may be ok, for a while.
they'll degrade quicky in that heat, probably end up splitting or cracking on ya, and spewing oil all over your hot manifold, and turbo.
hopfully, it wont melt things (including you) up too bad.

sorry if i come off as a bit rude, im really just trying to help you, and all the future guys who see this thread out.
this "whatever fits works" idea of turboing our motors just leads to more blown motors, and guys who end up saying "ahh its not worth it to turbo the 7a/5s motors, they cant handle boost, when in realitly, these motors can do quite nicely turbocharged, and be VERY reliable when its done RIGHT.
we need more SOLID turbo threads, and less of these "this is how to do it super cheap" ones.