rear disc conversion complete, what a pain Options

[purplegt4]

brakes were easy install until i broke two bolts above the heat shield that needed to be drilled out.

This is the season opener for me. Too bad the rear brake looks bigger than the front time for new front brakes!

This post has been edited by purplegt4: Mar 16, 2008 - 1:54 AM

[Batman722]

nice job

just make sure the shield is secure with all 4 nuts or else you might get a rattle/vibration from it.

[purplegt4]

definitely.

i have yet to put it back. i have to drill a bolt from there too.

i should've used my liquid wrench first. i broke 3 bolts with my small ratchet not even the 3/8". i didn't think it had the torque. i guess i should stop eating my wheaties.

[D-Man]

Good Job. One Woot for 4W Disk Breaks

Now you need to get Theese:




I FREAKIN LOVE EM!!

Well worth every penny

This post has been edited by D-Man: Mar 13, 2008 - 1:17 PM

[purplegt4]

wanna tell me more about them?

i read around that i should stay away from slotted and drilled for my application - daily driver, periodic hard driving.

i'm still deciding if i should go 2000+ gt-s front or 94-99 GT front.

[D-Man]

i use em on a daily driving application, and i'm telling you that *PERSONALY* i think it's a must have. Your breaking power increases 200x, and in the great big ass city of houston; on the streets with the crazys out, you never know when you need to go from 60 to 0 in 3 seconds or less...

not to mention (as soon as i get rims) they're one heck of a piece of eye candy Yummy~

*EDIT* I'm not referencing the R-Word. I'm legitimetly talking about crazy old ladys that do 45+ in the wal mart parking lot in their GINORMUS SUV's then get on the frwy and SLAM the breaks. lol. I hate those people...

Not to mention construction on the I-10 frwy, there is a wreck with construction vehicles every day. Mostly because of Texas lenient drinking laws. And construction workers dont give a crap when they're swinging these monster rigs into a frwy.

This post has been edited by D-Man: Mar 13, 2008 - 1:37 PM

[Batman722]

drilled/slotted are great for hard driving like a track or x cross but for daily driving they lack the surface area to the pads to give good daily stopping power. I had drilled rotors, maybe they weren't quality, I don't know, but they sucked. I switched to bembro blanks and the difference was clear. The drilled looked way better IMO but I didn't want to risk not being able to stop for looking good.

[D-Man]

drilled/slotted are great for hard driving like a track or x cross but for daily driving they lack the surface area to the pads to give good daily stopping power. I had drilled rotors, maybe they weren't quality, I don't know, but they sucked. I switched to bembro blanks and the difference was clear. The drilled looked way better IMO but I didn't want to risk not being able to stop for looking good.

okay, alot of companys make em' slightly thiner than your standard rotor, so that durring high speed aplication there is no risk of rubbing onto the pad and preventing any velocity loss. but that's why i got the one's i got. They are not thiner. I forget the name of the company, i'll have to get it for you, but that is true. Some are not designed for daily application.

[Batman722]

like I did say I don't know how good mine were, I don't think they were good quality.

There are great brands that are drilled/slotted but I had a bad experience with them so I'm a little biased against them

I'm sure good quality drilled/slotted rotors would be better than blanks but for the $ and my use, blanks do me just fine.

what brand are those ? how much were they ?

[D-Man]

I gotta look at the box. lol. I dont remember every brand i buy.

But it's not all about quality though; it about function; and what you want them to do/what they're used for.

Track guys want them to be narrow, because they dont need the break untill it's down to the last second, then they want to stop in an instant. So they want narrow.

We drive every day, so we want a more broad range of stopping degree. So we want a wider caliper.

It's not that you got a poor quality product, it could be that you had a product for the incorrect application

I'm trying to find out where to go to buy bulk, us I'm trying to start a Houston Group Buy for these baby's~

This post has been edited by D-Man: Mar 13, 2008 - 2:18 PM

[playr158]

X-drilled + slotted = no good

Powerslot rotors = good

I've never ever heard about making a skinny rotor for track use...thats ummm dumb...they would warp in an instant.

Drew, get a GOOD quality slotted rotor + some quality pads and you'll love'm for daily driving. I use Hawk HPS pads + Powerslot rotors on a daily basis and pretty happy/no noise.

good job on the conversion.

This post has been edited by playr158: Mar 13, 2008 - 2:37 PM

[D-Man]

not skinny, just a few mm thinner or something like that..... I'll get ya some info on brand names and some websites when i get home; i dont have those links on my work CPU. But it's made thinner than your regular rotor. I'll show ya later.

EDIT: X drilled? like drill holes in an X shape? lol, if you put too many more holes in em there wont be any rotor left to stop the car!!

This post has been edited by D-Man: Mar 13, 2008 - 2:42 PM

[95st-celica]

did you get them off of ebay?...i was just looking at a set of front rotors with ceramic pads for like 80 bucks...i might go with 2001+ GTS rotors in the front but i havent decided yet.....aslo...would i be able to buy all the parts i need for a rear disc conversion from a dealership? anyone have all the part numbers for the parts i would need by anychance?...i think that would be my best bet because i would be 100% sure everything is new...thanks guys

[D-Man]

did you get them off of ebay?...i was just looking at a set of front rotors with ceramic pads for like 80 bucks...i might go with 2001+ GTS rotors in the front but i havent decided yet.....aslo...would i be able to buy all the parts i need for a rear disc conversion from a dealership? anyone have all the part numbers for the parts i would need by anychance?...i think that would be my best bet because i would be 100% sure everything is new...thanks guys

I dont buy much from e-bay; dont trust em...

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...m?siteid=214591 for the parts.

[playr158]

not skinny, just a few mm thinner or something like that..... I'll get ya some info on brand names and some websites when i get home; i dont have those links on my work CPU. But it's made thinner than your regular rotor. I'll show ya later.

EDIT: X drilled? like drill holes in an X shape? lol, if you put too many more holes in em there wont be any rotor left to stop the car!!

thats ok I have cars on the race track, I'll stick to tested and proven

[D-Man]

thats ok I have cars on the race track, I'll stick to tested and proven

different strokes for different folks

[purplegt4]

did you get them off of ebay?...i was just looking at a set of front rotors with ceramic pads for like 80 bucks...i might go with 2001+ GTS rotors in the front but i havent decided yet.....aslo...would i be able to buy all the parts i need for a rear disc conversion from a dealership? anyone have all the part numbers for the parts i would need by anychance?...i think that would be my best bet because i would be 100% sure everything is new...thanks guys

you could but it would be very expensive. I just kept watch in the buying/selling forums here.

I got my rotors from nopi - brembo blanks.

and X-drilled i think he means cross drilled.

[D-Man]

lol, i'm happy with mine. Really happy. Just need to get some rims

[Harold_Fastwaker]

yes, as stated. Stay away from Drilled rotors.

Stick to slotted and thats it.


BTW, how much did the rear conversion run you. Looking at doing that in April.

This post has been edited by Harold_Fastwaker: Mar 13, 2008 - 5:01 PM

[Defgeph]

Looks great, nice work. I just picked up some Hawk pads and Brembo blanks myself. I can't wait to put them on.