7afe,what is what??, starter?? |
7afe,what is what??, starter?? |
Mar 11, 2008 - 9:34 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 9, '06 From Ma Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
You can buy an oil pan gasket, but the FIPG [or regular black Permatex silicone] will seal better if done right.
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Mar 21, 2008 - 1:19 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 28, '07 Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
anybody wanna just give me a how to on this??wat socket are the bolts
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Mar 21, 2008 - 1:46 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jun 29, '03 From 캘리포니아 Currently Offline Reputation: 23 (100%) |
10mm
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Mar 21, 2008 - 2:48 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
generally all the bolts on our cars are gonna be 10mm or 13mm, with some exceptions of course. I always reach for the 10mm first, 9 out of 10 times that's what it'll be (unless it's obviously much larger)
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Mar 21, 2008 - 3:16 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Nov 14, '06 From michigan Currently Offline Reputation: 10 (100%) |
QUOTE(CelicaST_CALI @ Mar 21, 2008 - 6:19 PM) [snapback]656459[/snapback] anybody wanna just give me a how to on this??wat socket are the bolts 1. Buy yourself a good set of metric wrenches and sockets. Don't buy crap tools, buy craftsman or snap-on or any good name brand that gives you a lifetime warranty. These tools will last you a lifetime if you keep em clean and don't lose them. Get a tool box to keep em in. That is the best advise you will ever get about tools. 2. remove the oilpan after draining all the oil out. There is a drain plug at bottom of oil pan. (dont lose it) 3. clean the mating surfaces where the pan attaches to the motor. clean them very well so there is nice shiny clean surface wth no oil or grease. 4. Use the FIPG (or the black permatex). nice even bead around the pan. gently replace the pan on the motor. 5. replace the bolts that you took out to get the pan off. Replace the drain plug. 6. Remove the oil filter. Replace with a new one. 7. Pour in new oil. 8. Start the engine and check to see if there are any leaks. If not shut off engine and check the oil level. If all is well......God Job! |
Mar 21, 2008 - 4:22 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 1, '03 From Michigan Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
To add to that excellent previous post (gotta give props to my fellow Michiganders) -
1. And a gasket scraper, and maybe a can of PB Blaster. 2. When pulling the oil pan, be careful not to bend the pan out of shape when removing it. Also, while the pan is off, don't let any dirt or debris get into the block. I pulled the pan on a car last fall w/ the garage door open, and just then mother nature decided to let out a big gust of wind - leaves every where..... 3. nice shiny clean surface wth no oil or grease - and as little old silicone as possible. Without a parts cleaner its difficult to get all of it out, but try to anyways. 4. When putting on a new bead of silicone, keep it thin and away from the inside of the pan. You dont need much to make a good seal. If you put too much on, you'll run the risk of it oozing into the block when you reinstall the pan. 7. After the silicone has cured, pour in new oil. -------------------- Scott
West Michigan |
Mar 21, 2008 - 6:56 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 9, '06 From Ma Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
A couple more things to add.
1-use BLUE threadlocker on the oil pan bolts when you reinstall them. This will help keep them from vibrating out. 2-IMO I ALWAYS clean all the old paint off the oil pan sealing surface. Toyota says not to, but they assume the paint isn't scratched. If it's scratched oil residue can get under the scratch and is next to impossible to full clean out. Oil residue means the silicone won't seal to the surface at that point, which means you will most likely have a leak. 3-Ultra fine sandpaper is great for cleaning off the old silicone from the block surface. Something over 1000 grit. QUOTE(GriffGirl @ Mar 21, 2008 - 2:48 PM) [snapback]656482[/snapback] generally all the bolts on our cars are gonna be 10mm or 13mm, with some exceptions of course. I always reach for the 10mm first, 9 out of 10 times that's what it'll be (unless it's obviously much larger) 10, 12 or 14mm. No 13 for OEM bolts. Starter bolts are 14MM Oil pan are 10mm [not sure which your'e asking about] -------------------- |
Mar 21, 2008 - 7:15 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 28, '07 Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
ok well that is great thanks guyz,but i mean how to replace starter.should i really re seal the oil pan,wat good will it do??
This post has been edited by CelicaST_CALI: Mar 21, 2008 - 7:19 PM -------------------- BANNED. for life, you moron.
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Mar 21, 2008 - 7:45 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jun 29, '03 From 캘리포니아 Currently Offline Reputation: 23 (100%) |
It will keep your oil from leaking out. Typically, you want to keep all your oil in.
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Mar 21, 2008 - 8:00 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 28, '07 Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
ok,starter how to?
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Mar 23, 2008 - 9:20 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 22, '07 From Houston, TX Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) |
1. disconnect negative battery cable
2. disconnect the 2 wires going to starter 3. remove the 2 bolts holding starter on 4. remove old starter and place new one in its spot 5. replace those 2 bolts on the starter 6. reconnect the 2 wires 7. reconnect battery 8. attempt to start car -------------------- QUOTE "And, as always, your friendship, help, and dedication to the advancement of Texas Celica dominance is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks bro." -DEATH 1994 GT: V6 swap, 5speed E53 W/ LSD, All Power, now RED 1995 ST: SOLD @273k miles, Auto, all power, CarPC, White 1994 ST: Totaled, 5spd, all power, Red RIP 07/09/09 @ 241,810 1994 Lexus LS400: This is my new DD |
Mar 31, 2008 - 11:19 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 28, '07 Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
ok thanks a lot ill do this somtime in april
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Apr 7, 2008 - 5:55 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 28, '07 Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
any body have any pictures of teh starter bolts??i really cant see any thing,id like to take the right bolts off,thanks
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