3S-GTE Aftermarket ECU/Gen/Market Motor, Questions and discussion Options

[DEATH]

My main reason for this thread is to get an answer to these questions but I'd also like to hear from people who have experience and/or are running off an aftermarket ECU on their 3S-GTE's.

My Motor: 93' JDM GT4 3S-GTE [2nd Gen] *possibly RC edition cause CT-26 is the JDM Ceramic - yes I know this means nothing but it's possible - will find out soon into this discussion*
Mods are listed in my profile but it's basically stock with upgraded to:
8.8:1 Pistons
ARP Head Studs
HKS Metal Headgasket
HKS Turbo Timer
Blitz Blowoff Valve
Front Mount Intercooler
Custom Welded IC Piping
APEX'i Induction Kit/Filter
AFM/3" Intake/Turbo Inlet [minimal bend]
Custom Full 2.5" DP/BP
3" Magnaflow High Flow Cat
GReddy SP2 Catback Exhaust
Kirkasaurus Poly Motor Mounts
NGK Iridium Spark Plugs
MSD 8.5" Superconductor Wires
MSD Blaster 2 Coil
ACT Stage 2 Clutch
TRD quickshifter kit
TRD Boost Gauge
KOYO Racing Radiator

And I have an SAFC-II from my last Celica that is already setup to drop right in my new car and it does have various preset tunes built in for the various ECU's.

Goals:
Daily Driven [not really but built for]
Retain/enhance the Celica's already legendary handling [Ie. no drag racing setups]
275-300WHP/300WTq
Reliability/Engine Safety
Easily Adjustable Boost Levels for DD/Track/Just messing around - basically 3 levels 10PSI/12PSI/15[+?]PSI
Stock Turbo
Fairly civilized demeanor with low RPMS/Monster-ish when pushed hard
Low 13's consistantly on GOOD street tires
NO ECU's that require all adjustability to be done on computer/dyno [I want some options - SAFC-II's dual saves and easy adjustment is acceptable to me]

Questions:
1. What are the available P/N's for ECU's [both MR2 and Altrac/GT4] for 2nd Gen from market to market: JDM/UKDM/USDM ?
2. Are there P/N's different from market to market: JDM/UKDM/USDM [I assume so since tuning is different]?
3. If there are different P/N's will there be different options or any limitations I may run in to when selecting an aftermarket ECU/Piggyback.
4. And lastely/most importantly should I even bother worrying about another piggyback/standalone ECU when the SAFC-II I already have is perfectly sufficient for my fairly low expectations [or is it? You tell me]

I'm not afraid to upgrade the fuel or timing [seperately from the SAFC-II or integrated into the ECU] like a bit bigger injectors, it'll definetely get a full MSD ignition etc.
One thing I do like about the SAFC-II is the customizable readout and knock response.
What do you guys think? I'm def not trying to build Tufy's car here - just an extremly beautiful and elegant sleeper to make living in a driving intensive spread-the-fcuk-out town/state like Houston/Tx more enjoyable.
Thanks guys.

This post has been edited by DEATH: Apr 30, 2008 - 6:10 AM

[southwest2118]

if you decide to go aftermarket pcm, sell me the safc2

[alltracman78]

Short answer, if anything doesn't make sense feel free to ask for an explanation.

RC has a steel turbine, not ceramic, so you most likely have a regular JDM 3S.

USDM [and I believe all other non homologation or JDM] is 200 HP.
JDM is 225 HP.
Non JDM homologation [CS/Grp A] is 204 HP.
JDM homologation [RC] is 235 HP.
MR2 was regular only, no homologation. Same HP levels.

Non homologation has a ~ 12 PSI boost cut.
Homologation has a ~ 17 PSI boost cut.

As far as plug & play, as far as I know [definitely for USDM vs JDM] they are interchangeable as long as you have the same revision.
MR2 ECUs are also interchangeable with the ST185 harness, though it doesn't work the other way around, at least as far as the post revision versions.

Homologation have basically the same pinouts, but require a different AFM. If you got rid of the AFM it shouldn't matter.

If you're looking to use a piggyback, for stock ECU obviously the homologation is better because of the higher boost cut.

You can buy remapped stock ECUs that have higher boost cut, better fuel/ignition tables, and sometimes mapped for larger injectors.

I don't think any of the stock ECUs will get you into the low 13s, though possibly the RC will.

With a piggyback, I would assume so, but I'm not fully up to speed on them, I've never really dealt with them.

An aftermarket ECU alone might or might not get you there, depends on the exact mods.

With a piggyback, I would assume so as well.

Check your PMs in regards to this.

[WannabeGT4]

MAP-ECU2... End thread.

[DEATH]

MAP-ECU2... End thread.

You're gonna have to elaborate further on that. Is that a brand/model type or something? I've been researching this for a while and I've never seen this.


Thanks Alltracman - that was very informative [and you will have return PM ] - especially the part about the JDM Turbo being metallic. Are you absolutely sure about that tho? I've seen numerous places that say the opposite but IDK. This from wiki [for example - 2nd paragraph]:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3s-gte
At any rate, I'll be grabbing the P/n off the ECU within the next couple of days anyway. It is located on the top of the ECU housing IIRC right?

So, ideally if I was to start with a JDM or reflashed ECU and add a piggyback and the right supporting mods and proper dyno tuning I could theoretically reach my goal or close to it? This is [I think] what my plan will be. I just don't want to get too complicated with the ECU and be solely at the mercy of a dyno shop for adjustments.
The low 13's thing is not a big necessity - the safety of my engine and daily driveabilty are far more important to me.

What do you guys think of these?:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyota-AEM-...1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...hlink:middle:us

[WannabeGT4]

The MAP-ECU 2 is a piggy back computer with fuel and ignition control that will allow you to remove the AFM. From what I understand it's the next best thing to a full standalone. It's only $700 and has a dual map feature, two step, and electronic boost control option. It does need to be tuned with a computer but honestly after you have both the daily and race maps tuned you probably won't need to mess with it again until there is another major upgrade. Look it up, they're made by performance motor research. The Supra guys love them.

As for the Turbo being steel vs ceramic... I know there is a different part number for the RC vs non-RC JDM turbos so there is a strong chance that wikipedia is wrong... Wouldn't be the first time.

[DEATH]

The MAP-ECU 2 is a piggy back computer with fuel and ignition control that will allow you to remove the AFM. From what I understand it's the next best thing to a full standalone. It's only $700 and has a dual map feature, two step, and electronic boost control option. It does need to be tuned with a computer but honestly after you have both the daily and race maps tuned you probably won't need to mess with it again until there is another major upgrade. Look it up, they're made by performance motor research. The Supra guys love them.

As for the Turbo being steel vs ceramic... I know there is a different part number for the RC vs non-RC JDM turbos so there is a strong chance that wikipedia is wrong... Wouldn't be the first time.

That actually sounds perfect for my needs - I'll research it. Thanks
As for Wiki being wrong - tell me about it but I've read that elsewhere as well. I'll do some more research on that as well. Most likely Alltracman is correct on this one. The real telling will be the P/N on the ECU. I'll be getting that some time this week.

So here is what I'm thinking:
-JDM ECU
-Piggyback [MAP-ECU 2 possibly]
-Proper Supporting mods
-Much $$$ spent at the dyno tuning
Sound like a plan that works for my goals?

This post has been edited by DEATH: Apr 30, 2008 - 10:21 AM