HOW TO TURBOCHARGE THE 7AFE Options

[jesterwr217]

brass T fittings, rubber oil lines next to a 900+* turbo, and CHECK VALVES?!?!
getto.
all bad ideas IMO.
it may work for ya...for now.., but thats not how to get ANY turbo motor, especially a 7a or 5s, to run properly and more importantly RELIABLY for any length of time.

not sure whats wrong with the t fittings but oil lines are fine but not the best stainless steel lines are the best and as i stated the check valves and fmu are not the right way to go about it

well, brass Ts are a VERY bad idea, because they are brass.
brass is a soft metal, that fatiuges easily when subjected to the vibrations they see attached to an engine, especially if you tap into it for an oil feed for the turbo, and a pressure sender for an oil gauge.
what happens is, over time, the metal fatiuges to the point that it cracks. 99% of the time, it will crack when your driving, and before you have a chance to realize whats going on, all your oil is gone, and you've either blown your turbo, and or your motor, cause you didnt spend 25$ on a steel fitting like the tunertoys one.

those rubber lines may be ok, for a while.
they'll degrade quicky in that heat, probably end up splitting or cracking on ya, and spewing oil all over your hot manifold, and turbo.
hopfully, it wont melt things (including you) up too bad.

sorry if i come off as a bit rude, im really just trying to help you, and all the future guys who see this thread out.
this "whatever fits works" idea of turboing our motors just leads to more blown motors, and guys who end up saying "ahh its not worth it to turbo the 7a/5s motors, they cant handle boost, when in realitly, these motors can do quite nicely turbocharged, and be VERY reliable when its done RIGHT.
we need more SOLID turbo threads, and less of these "this is how to do it super cheap" ones.

ok i didnt know that about the brass fitting noone ever explained that to me but ive never had a problem with mine at all

the lines i had on there have never given me any problems because ive routed them away from the heat as much as possible and wrapped the dp to keep more heat away but your right ss is the best way to go like i ALREADY said

and thats deff not the approach i took at writing this thread or building my turbo kit idk how you decerned that without knowing anything about me or the way i do things but whatever if you guys believe thats how this thread is then close it and ill abandon it

[nik]

im also not being rude i started with the check valves back in 2005 when there wasnt alot of info or guys on here that knew a lot about turbos but doing it yourself is a good way to learn but has its draw backs IE blow motor kinda stuff

[jesterwr217]

now the correct way is forget about the fmu and the check valves, instead you replace your map sensor with the 3sgte 2 bar map



and use the supra 315cc lime green injectors

im also not being rude i started with the check valves back in 2005 when there wasnt alot of info or guys on here that knew a lot about turbos but doing it yourself is a good way to learn but has its draw backs IE blow motor kinda stuff