Manual to Power Windows/Locks Conversion, REALLY CLOSE NOW! Need help, see pg 5 Options

[hurley97]

So from what we already went through it sounds like your power main relay is hooked up properly, plus you say you hear something clicking when you try the switch so I'd have to agree that there is power getting through...

Power Main Relay
pin 1 --> (blu/yel) diode --> (red/blu) pin 1 of door lock control relay <-- power

If the blu/yel coming off the diode connects to the red/blu off the DCM & then to the power main relay, what does the red/blu wire coming off the diode connect to, nothing?

blu/yel off the diode connects to power main relay AND blu/yel going to pin 15 of the DCM
red/blu off the diode connects to power and pin 1 of the DCM

One more question about the grounds, too. Are all of those wires cited labeled with what they DO or is that their location? Meaning, are those grounded wires coming off the part of the harness that connects to the door harnesses, or is it literally for example "cut the wire coming off of pin 9 of the d/s power window switch & ground it"? Couldn't I just ground pin 9 (blu/ora) of the connector that plugs into the d/s door harness?

they are all location of all the grounds. make sure the wire coming off of each of those pins at the listed location is grounded.

[siberhusky0]

Hey didn't read your whole thread, so not sure where your at with the wiring. If you still need a car to check out plugs, wires, etc. I have a 98 vert. all elec. except mirrors, you can use. Work in Portland & it just sits for 9 hrs. any way.

[GriffGirl]

Hey didn't read your whole thread, so not sure where your at with the wiring. If you still need a car to check out plugs, wires, etc. I have a 98 vert. all elec. except mirrors, you can use. Work in Portland & it just sits for 9 hrs. any way.

That's awesome, thanks for that offer. Looks like I've got the windows working now, just need to get everything situated in place now! Next is to figure out the locks and the mirrors, how to switch over the wiring to the master switch mirror control from the stock center dash panel switch.


So quick question for anyone who knows the answer to this - is there any point on the door itself that serves as a decent ground, or do I need to run the ground to the chassis through the A pillar? I need to ground those two wht/blk wires off the master switch, and this evening will be my ONLY window of opportunity (no pun intended) before the ridiculous rain starts up again.

And lastly, suppose I had an aftermarket alarm system installed, that has remote keyless entry... as long as the door lock actuators are in place, do I really need to worry about the wiring for them, or can I just have them basically rigged up if/when I get an aftermarket alarm system installed?

[hurley97]

You got them working? Nice! What was the problem, if you don't mind me asking?

You should be able to use any metal point in the door, since it all connects to the chassis. Just scrape the paint away so it makes a good connection. If you are unsure just get a test light and put one side to power and the other to whatever point in the door you want to use as a ground, if it lights up its good.

Not sure what you are asking about the alarm situation but it sounds like you want to know if there's anything you need to consider right now while you are trying to make it all work. In that case I would say not at all, but you probably should install the alarm yourself since all that wiring you are doing now isn't factory and an installer may not be able to locate the correct wires or may have a difficult time with it.

[GriffGirl]

Okay, so basically the only problem was exactly what I thought it was - I was missing a ground to the master switch. It was those two wht/blk ones coming off the switch. I wound up cutting them from the door harness (since they branch of somewhere, I don't know where they actually *end* per se) and grounding them, and POOF! The windows worked.

Now I did something different; I followed your outline of what gets grounded, etc that you'd posted, but I got absolutely nothing, no power to the relay, switch, nothing. Could be that I did something wrong, there was that confusion about the blu/yel & red/grn wires to the diode and the power main relay... etc. So I backtracked to what I KNEW made power to the relay, and what wound up working was to connect the wht/grn wires off the harness & off the DCM directly to the fused battery lead I ran, and then of course to ground the master switch & the DCM to a ground lead I ran through the firewall off the strut tower (I did this a few weeks ago to eliminate any possibility that I just had a bad ground). Both windows worked just fine this way; so I played around with it some more and found that I didn't need the power main relay at all, they still worked just the same. Go figure? I dunno... the battery lead is fused, so I'm thinking as long as that's fused, I should be safe without the power main relay in terms of any concern about overdrawing amps or anything. Correct me if I'm wrong of course.

So it's been raining like a MOTHER (from what I hear, you're experiencing this too on your side of the country) and I haven't been able to actually get outside to permanently affix the harness up under the dash. So I'm still riding w/out power windows, but just as a technicality at least. Once it stops raining long enough for me to get out there and finish it all up, I'll take some pictures and write up a complete how-to in a separate thread. Hopefully at that time I'll have gotten the locks figured out & will be able to include that as well. I haven't installed the passenger door lock actuator yet, my attention span was way too short to even risk messing with it last weekend. Hopefully the rain will let up a bit this weekend for me to focus on it and get it done.

[hurley97]

Nice!

Pretty much any relay can be bypassed just fine, whether or not its a good idea to I think depends on the application. In this situation I'm not entirely sure but since the power main relay powers a few different things its probably a good idea to use it if you can.

[GriffGirl]

Sure, I can throw it in there as outlined, it didn't seem to make a difference one way or the other. Plus, it might be handy for when I get those locks figured out!


Any thoughts on powering the mirrors through the d/s master switch rather than the center console switch where they're currently powered?

[samir0189]

pretty glad to see you are getting this figured out Michelle. Sorry I can't offer any help though. Good luck with the rest.

[hurley97]

Sure, I can throw it in there as outlined, it didn't seem to make a difference one way or the other. Plus, it might be handy for when I get those locks figured out!


Any thoughts on powering the mirrors through the d/s master switch rather than the center console switch where they're currently powered?

Do you have the one that goes in the master switch? If the plugs and pins in them are the same that's easy, just extend your harness between your existing switch and plug then run it over to the master switch and plug it in.
But judging by my 97 wiring book it looks like all the wire colors match up but the pins are different between the switches. Looks like even if your plug fits you are going to have to re-pin it. In that case find the plug that goes into the mirror part of the master switch of your donor harness and cut it off. Then just match up the colors from your car's harness.

[AnaXyd]

Any plans of writing a How-to on this one?