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> Driver side power window
post Jul 26, 2008 - 9:24 PM
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recniabsal

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So my window won't roll up. Its been like that since about December. I know huh. Lol. So my dad and I have taken a look at it. And he thinks its the cable thats been stripped. Either way I ordered the power motor and the cable was NOT included and so I'm gonna order that and replace the whole thing just to make sure the whole problem is solved for years to come.

The problem is getting to the motor and getting it out. It looks like a good 5 hour or so job. And we can't figure out if the white metal plate covering the interior even comes off or if we are supposed to just take off those bolts and pull the motor and window out through the holes in the plate. Has anybody ever done this before? I just need to know if we are able to take the plate off or not, how long a process, and where's a good place to buy the cable and how much? Autozone? Online? All that good stuff. Thanks.


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post Jul 28, 2008 - 3:53 PM
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GriffGirl



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You shouldn't need to replace the cable - it can't really get "stripped". Unless it's completely frayed somehow, the cable should actually be fine.

Also, you don't need to remove anything other than the inside door panel to get the old motor out. Here's a thread where I've been converting my manual-crank windows to power windows. It contains lots of good pictures with some descriptions of how to remove the old motor. Use the service holes in the inside metal door panel to unbolt stuff. You'll need a 10mm socket and an extension.

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=59251&hl=

One important thing to know is that you will need to get the window down about a third or so of the way to unbolt the old rail from the glass. I'm not exactly how to do this if the motor isn't working at all though; perhaps someone here can elaborate on how to do this.


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post Jul 28, 2008 - 11:47 PM
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RickJamesBish

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My passenger window wouldn't go down, but it's fine now. So opposite of your problem, although mine fixed itself.

So did you have to ghetto-block the window with plastic while it wouldn't go up?
post Jul 29, 2008 - 9:14 PM
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recniabsal

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QUOTE (GriffGirl @ Jul 28, 2008 - 4:53 PM) *
You shouldn't need to replace the cable - it can't really get "stripped". Unless it's completely frayed somehow, the cable should actually be fine.

Also, you don't need to remove anything other than the inside door panel to get the old motor out. Here's a thread where I've been converting my manual-crank windows to power windows. It contains lots of good pictures with some descriptions of how to remove the old motor. Use the service holes in the inside metal door panel to unbolt stuff. You'll need a 10mm socket and an extension.

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=59251&hl=

One important thing to know is that you will need to get the window down about a third or so of the way to unbolt the old rail from the glass. I'm not exactly how to do this if the motor isn't working at all though; perhaps someone here can elaborate on how to do this.

Yeah the cable is shredded like hell. Lol. I can not get the window up at all. What would you suggest about the cable problem? I personally think the motor still works.


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post Jul 31, 2008 - 12:51 AM
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ActionClaw



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I'm working on something related right now -- plus you may be needing this same info.

Would anyone have (or be able to direct us to where we can find) info regarding the Power window switch or connector 1995 (In my case for a Toyota Celica ST liftback passenger side)

Connector wiring:
  • Solid Green
  • Green w white stripe
  • Red
  • White w Green stripe
  • Red w Blue stripe


I'm assuming this is:
  • 2 to the motor
  • 1 power supply pos
  • 2 power supply negs


Have you gotten to the motor itself yet? what color are the leads?

...or on the other hand, can anyone identify the window switch's 5 terminals?

Thanks
post Aug 12, 2008 - 12:41 PM
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recniabsal

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QUOTE (RickJamesBish @ Jul 28, 2008 - 11:47 PM) *
My passenger window wouldn't go down, but it's fine now. So opposite of your problem, although mine fixed itself.

So did you have to ghetto-block the window with plastic while it wouldn't go up?

No I just drove it around always pimpin my music with my arm hanging out even in the rain. Lol. I found the problem I think. I ordered the Regulator which includes the cable and I already have the motor so hopefully my problem is solved. Funny thing is I thought I had to have all my windows working to pass inspection and I just barely found out I don't. I still have to fix my passenger side high beam headlight but thats gonna be fixed today.


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post Aug 12, 2008 - 2:25 PM
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GriffGirl



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QUOTE (ActionClaw @ Jul 30, 2008 - 10:51 PM) *
I'm working on something related right now -- plus you may be needing this same info.

Would anyone have (or be able to direct us to where we can find) info regarding the Power window switch or connector 1995 (In my case for a Toyota Celica ST liftback passenger side)

Connector wiring:
  • Solid Green
  • Green w white stripe
  • Red
  • White w Green stripe
  • Red w Blue stripe


I'm assuming this is:
  • 2 to the motor
  • 1 power supply pos
  • 2 power supply negs


Have you gotten to the motor itself yet? what color are the leads?

...or on the other hand, can anyone identify the window switch's 5 terminals?

Thanks

W/out looking at my car, IIRC the leads to the motor is the solid green wire and solid red wire. If you were to take your door panel off, you'd see that there's a 2 prong connector clipped into the door. The part that's actually clipped to the door comes off the motor, and the part that plugs into that goes to the door harness. If you need to figure out which is up and which is down (I don't remember off hand) you can run 2 leads from the battery and touch them to the motor-side of the connector.


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