Another noise issue, (Wheel Bearing & Motor Mount), Noise comming from passenger side front end of 95 GT Options

[ETNRIDER]

Hey everyone!! I have not been around much the past couple of months due to school, work, baby, etc !!!! I hope everyone has been doing ok.

Anyway, I have an issue with the front passenger side wheel well of my 1995 GT.

Whats happening:

Nearly everytime I turn to the left I hear a rubbing sound. Sometimes it happens when I am going straight after a left turn. The noise only comes during one spot of the tire rotation, every time the valve stem is at the 5 o’clock position. The noise does not really sound like metal on metal more like a rubber on metal sound.

The car has new brakes, rotors, wheel bearings about 6 months ago.

What I have done:

Took the wheel off and nothing seemed out of place or lose. There were no signs of any wheel rubbing on the tire or inner fender. Switched the front & rear wheel and the noise continued.

What think it may be:

Tie rod end
Sway bar bushing
CV axle
Doubt it but may be a stuck Caliper

I only have Sunday afternoons to mess with my car so please help me diagnose this problem, any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks 6gc!!!

A grateful Etnrider

This post has been edited by ETNRIDER: Oct 22, 2008 - 1:18 PM

[GriffGirl]

Is there any possibility your wheel is bent? Otherwise I'd check the ball joint, things that rotate and the same rate as the wheel itself. Assuming you took the wheel off and did not put it back in the precise same position it was in when you removed it, it's gotta be something specifically axle-related or else the wheel would cause that noise still but at a different valve stem position now.

[ETNRIDER]

Ball joint!! I did not think of that! I doubt it is the wheel, I know I have not hit anything and my wife tells me she has not either . I have had them for a while too.

So what would you recommend me try and do to eliminate some of the causes?


Thanks GriffGirl you are always there for me!!!

[ETNRIDER]

Ok so I have now diagnosed my cars problem with a little help for the mechanic up the street from my work. The first problem is my rear motor mount is shoot and the second is my passenger side front wheel bearing is out again, it was replaced about 5-6 months ago. When I say it is out I mean out the wheel has almost a 0.375” of play when grabbing the tire while it is on the ground!

I did the wheel bearing last time so I guess I can do it again but the motor mounts are another story. I have seen several suggestions on how to change them but I still have a few questions.

Do I need to replace them all since my car has ~200k on it?

Is there an actual “how to” on doing this? (if not I may try to do one)

Are there any upgraded motor mounts in the market that anyone has had any experience with?

Any help as always will be greatly appreciated, the 6gc community is the beat!!

Thanks all!

[samir0189]

I don't know about any aftermarket mounts, i read some people filled theirs with some kinda stuff that hardens up. I don't really know about that.

Basically the mounts you'll want to change are the front and rear, there is barely any or close to no side to side movement of our engines, so its kinda useless to change them.

the front one and rear one are mounted on a crossmember. it SUCKS. the front one is pretty easy actually. The rear one is a PITA. You will have an extremely hard time getting the mount back in and lining up the holes JUST right to get the bolt in. You might not understand what im saying right now but when you're doing it you'll see. The way that my dad and I finally got it to line up was using a jack and a piece of a 2x4 to jack the engine on the oil pan. I think this is one of the easiest ways to get it to line up. it takes alot of patience, took me and my dad who had no clue what we were doing about 8 hours. The rear mount was frustrating. Definitely a 2 man job!!!!!!!!!

[ETNRIDER]

Yeah, I have been searching on the mounts and it seems to be simple to change and install just really hard to get everything lined back up.

Thank you for your help Samir0189

[Bitter]

your wheel bearing more than likely took a **** because it wasnt torqued correctly.

[ETNRIDER]

your wheel bearing more than likely took a **** because it wasnt torqued correctly.

I also thought this may have been the case, but I was unsure on where the miss torque happened, could it have been the axle nut? It has been 4-6 months since I looked at it so my memory is a little cloudy of what all should have been torqued. Could someone verify the torque specifications for the wheel area?

I do now my car was involved in a front end collision that consisted to damage on the drivers side, the wheel bearing is on the passenger side.

Thank you all so much sometimes I think the only reason I keep the 6gc is you guys!!

[GriffGirl]

If you have a cherry picker, use that to support the engine to get the motor mounts out and back in. The tips above are ABSOLUTELY correct - the front motor mount is basically a piece of cake, but the rear one is HORRIBLE. I wouldn't say 8 hours, but a good hour of fighting to get it back in wouldn't be unusual. I just did this on Sunday night. Fun times. Lots of cursing. By lots I mean (here it is again!) a veritible plethora of truckers and sailors exhibiting a colorful mastery of the English language. Get the engine as high up as possible w/the cherry picker, and if you can, have someone with a pry bar help from up top while you're under the car (it's a better angle). When you're in there you'll see what I mean. Jam the mount in higher than it needs to go, and then SLOWLY drop the engine down into place, it'll kind of "pop" the mount in where it needs to go.

Apparently poly inserts are the way to go if you wanna beef up your motor mounts, too. I think these are the ones people have.

[samir0189]

Lol. it was a long time for me, cause i had a series of other issues that occurred. Like lost bolt in the hollow crossmember is FTMFL!!!!! That probably took a good chunk of time. lol.

[ETNRIDER]

Ok well the mechanic up the road (he is a good one) told me he could replace the rear motor mount for $153.00 plus taxes (part include). So I am going to let him do the mount since it seems like a good deal. He wanted $260.00 plus tax to do the bearing so I am going to do it myself.

Does anyone have the recommend torques for the all the parts I will be removing while replacing the wheel bearing?

What should I pay to get the old bearing pressed off and the new one on? (Ballpark) I paid $150 for both at the dealer before and I am going to try and get them to do the bearing pressing for free since it didn't last, but who knows.

This post has been edited by ETNRIDER: Oct 22, 2008 - 7:03 PM

[ETNRIDER]

Ok so I am starting to take my front end apart to get to my wheel bearing and I CAN NOT GET THE ROTOR OFF!! Any one have any ideas or trick I can try? I am a pretty big boy and I have a big rubber mallet but I can’t get it to budge!! They have only been on for about 6 months.

[ETNRIDER]

May have found my answer here!!

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...63&hl=rotor

[azian_advanced]

you need to find a bolt that threads into one of the holes on the rotor between the stud holes...
it needs to be long enough to go all the way through until it pushes the rotor off the knuckle

if you don't have that bolt, then hammer it harder.

[GriffGirl]

Yeah, you definitely have to muscle it a bit... you'll get it.

[ETNRIDER]

you need to find a bolt that threads into one of the holes on the rotor between the stud holes...
it needs to be long enough to go all the way through until it pushes the rotor off the knuckle

if you don't have that bolt, then hammer it harder.

This is exactly what I did!!! Worked like a charm!

Yeah, you definitely have to muscle it a bit... you'll get it.

Oh I muscled it, I almost pulled the celica off the jackstands!!!

This post has been edited by ETNRIDER: Oct 24, 2008 - 6:15 PM