Upgrading Speakers, Replacement of Standard Speakers after new head unit installed Options

[rallyco-driver]

Hi guys, In have recently purchased my first Celice. It's a 1995 GT 2.0L.

I have installed a Pioneer head unit and Multi Changer, and now want to put some descent speakers in to get the best from my music.

I would prefer to continue to use Pioneer, but am not adversed to another make for the speakers.

Firstly, do you know what sizes both the front door and rear passenger panel speakers are so I can buy and install the same day?

Secondly, do any of you have a suggestion of a speaker model to use, I don't want to install seperate tweeters or a Bass box, as I will want to sell in the future?

Cheers

[Daftboy]

The fronts and rears are 170MM and so are the rear... I assume you have a 4 speaker setup correct? If you give me a price range I can point you in the right direction for speakers.

[rallyco-driver]

I wouldn't like to say money is no object, because it is, but I am up for paying for a quality product that will be value for money .

I have used Pioneer, Alpine and Kenwood in the past, so don't mind which one .

My thinking is if Pioneer designed/made the head unit the speakers should be engineered to give peak performance with a pioneer head unit or maybe not!

[LastOfTheSTs]

Hey,

So I've recently just done a front and rear speaker replacement. If you have a 4 speaker set up then the sizes are as follows:

Front Speakers - most people use 6.5" as these fit nicely behind the grilles but you will either need to modify the existing or do what I did and buy a moutning adapter from Ebay. The stock mountings are for 8" speakers.

Rear Speakers - 6" (trust me on this one) - 6.5" will fit but again will need a little bit of work to make new screw holes but I believe this is easy enough.

~LST

[rallyco-driver]

Sorry guys, forgot to confirm that I do have the standard four speaker system, I think.

I was reading on Rizers thread that the tweeter cables are just laying there to be connected. I have not take the door cards off yet, so will I find additional cables?

Any suggestion on make/models.

I am reading another thread about JBL's!!!!!!!!

[LastOfTheSTs]

I went for JBL's as for my project I'm keeping as Toyota stock or approved as possible. Toyota and JBL seemed to have recently partnered (http://www.toyotajbl.com/) so I thought I would give them ago and i was really impressed and because they are 6" speakers with mounting rings they were really easy to fit.

I purchased both sets of speakers from Ebay and saved some serious cash, here's my setup:

Front: JBL GTO-607c


Rear: JBL GTO-627


As has been suggested the tweeter cabling is there behind the door panel, but I didn't end up using it for my front speakers as they came with a digital cross over unit. I am however thinking of adding a second set of tweeters at a angle to the ones I have already installed and utilising this.

At the end of the day it is all down to personal preference and budget but the research is half the fun!.

~LST

This post has been edited by LastOfTheSTs: Sep 27, 2008 - 4:02 PM

[rallyco-driver]

Great information, cheers, I concur, I want to keep it as standard looking as possible to make resale easier.

Does the tweeter come with the front speakers?

I don't know what a Change over is and what it does and how it works.

Sorry, I meant a 'Digital Cross over unit'.

Do the speakers come with all necessasary mounts to fit without having to buy additional parts?

[LastOfTheSTs]

The GTO-607c are component speakers, they came with 2x 6" Mid Woofers, Cross Overs and 1-7/8" Tweeters. Most brands do this type of speaker including Pioneer, here is a website I spent a lot of time looking at whilst choosing: 16-17 cm Component Speakers.

The cross-over splits the low and high frequencies and sends them to the relevant speaker, in theory giving a much better sound and it seems to work.

To mount the front speakers I purchased this adapter from eBay. I then mounted the tweeters in the door as they were a little too big for the triangles behind the mirrors - they came with a flush mounting kit which kept them looking neat.

Hope the info is helpful.

~LST

PS. I just noticed your from Plymouth in the UK. I grew up in Tavistock, the Hoe used to be my old stomping ground. It's great to see some more brits on here!

This post has been edited by LastOfTheSTs: Sep 27, 2008 - 4:29 PM

[rallyco-driver]

This is all good information, I am learning lot.

Your Tweeters are in the perfect place, and they look good there.

How do I fit the Cross over?

Do you have a picture of how you have fixed it all behind your door card?

What are your thoughts on the wiring, leave it or change it?

[RickJamesBish]

I just put in a Pioneer head unit as well, DEH-2000MP.

I'm putting in Alpine Type-S' all around (only 4 speakers ), I have the fronts in and they sound beautiful.

[rallyco-driver]

What model speakers?

[Legit94GT]

If money is no option...

Buy the tweeter covers for our cars. Buy Anything Focal. The crossovers simply take one or two screws into the sheet metal of the door to stay in place. then attach your tweeter in the stock location. You will have to do work to get 6.5" speakers to fit in our doors.

Focal makes amazing products, I have had nice alpine and infiniti sound systems and they dont even compare to the clarity of Focal. Just my .02

[RickJamesBish]

What model speakers?

SPS-17C2

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Ite...lpine&tp=95

[mitchy]

Type R 6.5" coaxials fit perfectly in the rear:D

[RickJamesBish]

I'm throwing my Type S in the rear tomorrow and my sound project will be complete!

[mitchy]

I have so far got ALpine IDA-X100 with Type R components in the front and Type R coaxials in the rear. just need to save for amps and sub/s

[Cutrara]

IMO if you want the best sound in your vehicle, you NEED to power all those fancy aftermarket speakers with an external amp. External amps always make your music louder, crisper, and cleaner than any headunit can... Most aftermarket HUs are what? 50x4? Well those 50 Watts per channel are max, and you're probably pushing about 22w RMS to those aftermarket speakers. Those new speakers you just put in can handle 50w RMS at least. For example, Alpine Type-S components are 80w RMS. So for optimal performance you want to power it with 80w RMS. I promise you, you wont be disappointed.

[RickJamesBish]

So if I ever decided to put in a sub and amps, could they also power the speakers or would I need a separate amp to power the speakers? I think you're right, since my Type-S speakers are rated for 250 watts each, and my head unit only puts out 4x50. Would it really make that much of a difference?

[caszboy]

RickJamesBish-

Yes, hooking the amp up to the Type-S speakers you have will make a difference. With the setup you have now, you will never have to worry about blowing the speakers but with an amp you will (depending on the amp). Now with that said, are you ready to throw down some cash for it? The amp will run $250+, the wires for the amp will be $60+. So $310+ to get a decent setup. BUT, Like Cutrara said, it will definitely sound better.

As far as powering both speakers and subs with a single amp really isn't the best idea. Yes you could do it with a 4 channel amp but now your subs and speakers will be running across the same built in crossover the amp has. Which will sound like crap IMO. The subs will either be trying to put out treble or the speakers will just put out bass. So IMO, you will need two separate amps.

Just remember, Everything car audio is rated in WATTS and RMS. WATTS is what the speaker/amp/sub can run when peak power is achieved. Here is a little explanation of RMS:

"Root Mean Square. It is a mathematical/statistical method for measuring something that varies. Typically rms power is contrasted with peak power. A device may be able to deliver 10 amps (for example) for a few milliseconds (peak power) but can only provide 2 amps continuous (averaged over time, rms).

RMS measurements may apply to watts, volts or amps in the electronics and audio worlds."

So, when picking anything audio, look at RMS(constant power) and make sure its WATTS(max power) does not exceed the rating of the power source.

Hope all that helps.

Casey

This post has been edited by caszboy: Oct 8, 2008 - 10:51 AM

[Legit94GT]

^^^^
DO NOT run one amp to power everything.

It sucks and its more money but the amp(s) you run to power your sub(s) should only do that.

The amp you have to run your speakers should only do that.

just my .02