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> 4" intake on 3rd gen 3sgte, disscussion topic! GIVE YOUR 2 CENTS!
post Dec 4, 2008 - 9:02 AM
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presure2



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QUOTE (Dr_Tweak @ Dec 4, 2008 - 8:33 AM) *
I'm interested to see the results, I always wanted to play around with different sizes of piping and compare them all back to back. Are you going to do the tests with the hood closed (as it would be when driving)?

Hey manny, if I send you one of my intakes would you test that along with the others?





the place we dyno at is a pretty enclosed room, with not much airflow,so we normally dyno with the hood open, because there is only one very unfocused large fan blowing over the front of the car.
theres no way we can get highway speed airflow across the front of the car with the fan he has.
to be honest, i've never really thought anything of it before you mentioned it.

PM me about the intake, as long as we have the time, i would love to try it for ya.
the only issue i can see is that again, we wouldnt be getting the airflow your intake would normally take advantage of by being in the fender well, and with the open hood testing, i guess you could say we would have an advantage VS hood closed, where in theory the temps would be higher.


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post Dec 4, 2008 - 6:30 PM
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QUOTE (presure2 @ Dec 4, 2008 - 9:02 AM) *
PM me about the intake, as long as we have the time, i would love to try it for ya.
the only issue i can see is that again, we wouldnt be getting the airflow your intake would normally take advantage of by being in the fender well, and with the open hood testing, i guess you could say we would have an advantage VS hood closed, where in theory the temps would be higher.


Sort of why I was asking wink.gif

I'm jigging that intake up this coming week, so I'll see if I can't put together an extra, I can always leave it on the shelf as stock. Or maybe you'll want it wink.gif

-Doc


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post Dec 4, 2008 - 7:50 PM
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QUOTE (Dr_Tweak @ Dec 4, 2008 - 6:30 PM) *
QUOTE (presure2 @ Dec 4, 2008 - 9:02 AM) *
PM me about the intake, as long as we have the time, i would love to try it for ya.
the only issue i can see is that again, we wouldnt be getting the airflow your intake would normally take advantage of by being in the fender well, and with the open hood testing, i guess you could say we would have an advantage VS hood closed, where in theory the temps would be higher.


Sort of why I was asking wink.gif

I'm jigging that intake up this coming week, so I'll see if I can't put together an extra, I can always leave it on the shelf as stock. Or maybe you'll want it wink.gif

-Doc

nope, my car is daily driven, in all weather, so i'll take the short ram i have on my car, thanks.


jims car has no underplastics, and is also driven in all weather, so again, no cold air intakes there.

besides, i perfer less bends, and with where i place mine, im still getting the cold air from the fenderwell over the intake.

dont worry tweek im not trying to steal any of your buisness, i dont do this stuff for a livin.
wink.gif


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post Dec 5, 2008 - 8:44 AM
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Uh, yeah we daily-drive our cars in all weather too, and believe me, we get a LOT of flooding in Savannah. smile.gif A properly built cold air intake isn't going to give you any problems, since you have to FULLY submerge a filter before it will draw water into the intake. To submerge the intake pictured above, you would have to drive through water so deep that it would almost be coming over the TOPS of your wheels, and then you STILL would have to submerge the air bypass valve which is on there for extra safety. Under-body panels make no difference either way, it's certainly not going to keep water out if you drive into a river, and a little bit of water splashing onto the surface of the filter isn't going to go into your engine. wink.gif

-Doc


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post Dec 5, 2008 - 9:12 AM
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QUOTE (Dr_Tweak @ Dec 5, 2008 - 8:44 AM) *
Uh, yeah we daily-drive our cars in all weather too, and believe me, we get a LOT of flooding in Savannah. smile.gif A properly built cold air intake isn't going to give you any problems, since you have to FULLY submerge a filter before it will draw water into the intake. To submerge the intake pictured above, you would have to drive through water so deep that it would almost be coming over the TOPS of your wheels, and then you STILL would have to submerge the air bypass valve which is on there for extra safety. Under-body panels make no difference either way, it's certainly not going to keep water out if you drive into a river, and a little bit of water splashing onto the surface of the filter isn't going to go into your engine. wink.gif

-Doc


to me, the "air bypass valve" is part of the problem..
wouldnt the air flow thru that AND the filter while driving, or anytime for that matter?
and where that valve is, is kinda close to the flow going thru the radiator, especially once the fans kick on.
like i said, if you'd like, send one up by the 13th, ill test it along with the others as long as we have time, and i will return it to you.

besides, this is not a debate about SRI 'VS CAI.
for now, lets stay on topic, and talk about jims intake instead of yours.







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post Dec 5, 2008 - 9:30 AM
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To answer the question that you asked, the air bypass valve only opens when the intake is under vacuum, which only happens if and when the entire cone filter is submerged in water.

But yeah, I was just giving my .02 as the topic said, so I'm outta here smile.gif If I can get one put together in time I'll send it up thumbsup.gif

-Doc


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post Dec 5, 2008 - 10:07 AM
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QUOTE (Dr_Tweak @ Dec 5, 2008 - 9:30 AM) *
To answer the question that you asked,the air bypass valve only opens when the intake is under vacuum, which only happens if and when the entire cone filter is submerged in water.

But yeah, I was just giving my .02 as the topic said, so I'm outta here smile.gif If I can get one put together in time I'll send it up thumbsup.gif

-Doc

ahh i did not know that.
however, isnt the intake pre turbo always under vac?
thinking that, i went over to google, and first paragraph on AEM's faq about those valves is this:
Q: Can I use an Air Bypass Valve on a forced induction engine?A: Do NOT use an Air Bypass Valve on engines equipped with forced induction (turbo or superchargers). The increased flow demands created by the forced induction could damage the valve and lead to engine damage. i would think the vac created by the compressor would keep that valve open at all times.
and from that, i would think AEM is covering themselfs from tearing or ripping, and injesting that into the turbo and engine.


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post Dec 5, 2008 - 10:32 AM
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QUOTE (presure2 @ Dec 5, 2008 - 10:07 AM) *
QUOTE (Dr_Tweak @ Dec 5, 2008 - 9:30 AM) *
To answer the question that you asked,the air bypass valve only opens when the intake is under vacuum, which only happens if and when the entire cone filter is submerged in water.

But yeah, I was just giving my .02 as the topic said, so I'm outta here smile.gif If I can get one put together in time I'll send it up thumbsup.gif

-Doc

ahh i did not know that.
however, isnt the intake pre turbo always under vac?
thinking that, i went over to google, and first paragraph on AEM's faq about those valves is this:
Q: Can I use an Air Bypass Valve on a forced induction engine?A: Do NOT use an Air Bypass Valve on engines equipped with forced induction (turbo or superchargers). The increased flow demands created by the forced induction could damage the valve and lead to engine damage. i would think the vac created by the compressor would keep that valve open at all times.
and from that, i would think AEM is covering themselfs from tearing or ripping, and injesting that into the turbo and engine.


Wow, never saw that before. I was already considering dropping the bypass valve altogether since the filter is mounted so high already, I think you just helped me make up my mind!


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post Dec 5, 2008 - 10:33 AM
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laugh.gif yes behind that foam is a nice little system which under increased vacuum opens to let air through.

BUT as you have just posted they are not recommended on FI cars.
why?

because you have to look they are designed for normal NA cars. The NA motor can only generate so much vacuum before a) shutting down or b) sucking up the water.
so the valve has to have an opening vacuum level somewhere in between.

the FI motor generates significantly more vacuum levels inside the intake than an NA car. This constant increased level could damage the valve and possibly break it sending pieces into your turbo causing damage.

thumbsup.gif


ps: also there is very little point to running a "cold air intake" since it immediately gets rapidly heated by the turbo. You have an intercooler to insure cold air temps wink.gif
the difference in air temp the intake placement would see would make negligible effects on the power output of the motor.

This post has been edited by playr158: Dec 5, 2008 - 10:34 AM
post Dec 5, 2008 - 12:28 PM
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QUOTE
ps: also there is very little point to running a "cold air intake" since it immediately gets rapidly heated by the turbo. You have an intercooler to insure cold air temps
the difference in air temp the intake placement would see would make negligible effects on the power output of the motor.


yea, i kinda figured the same, guess we'll just have to see what happens if tweek sends one up.


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post Dec 25, 2008 - 11:43 AM
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Any results?
post Dec 25, 2008 - 12:55 PM
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unfortunatly the dyno was cancelled that day.


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post Dec 25, 2008 - 6:04 PM
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QUOTE (Batman722 @ Dec 25, 2008 - 1:55 PM) *
unfortunatly the dyno was cancelled that day.



BAH HUMBUG! get this baby dynoed
post Dec 25, 2008 - 8:27 PM
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We are trying, but of course the shop was "changing hands" that weekend I was up there so it fell through. In due time. If there were reasonable dynos around here I would post up because I still have the 3" intake from the GEN2 (which is almost identical to my 4" intake, except for being a 3" intake), but I cant find a dyno for less than 150.


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post Dec 27, 2008 - 8:09 AM
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guys lets stay on topic, i split the disscussion about the helper spring.

yea, the dyno guy just happen to be selling the dyno on the weekend we had planned to get this done, but dont worry, im sure jim will be up here soon after the new year to get these tests done.

dont worry guys, this WILL get done, and soon.


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post Jan 17, 2009 - 1:12 PM
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not to bust anyones balls, but is it dyno time yet?


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QUOTE (RUNNIN-LOW @ Feb 17, 2009 - 1:53 PM) *
buying a rusty car is like dating a girl with a bush! if u like it like that go for it.. :D if u can repair and make it look better then its all the better for u!...
post Jan 17, 2009 - 1:19 PM
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QUOTE (boosted95 @ Jan 17, 2009 - 1:12 PM) *
not to bust anyones balls, but is it dyno time yet?

we are trying to set up a date.

jim mentioned coming up next weekend, i need to confirm that with him, then make the dyno appt.

again, this WILL get done, but with it being winter and all, it makes it hard to set a solid date.


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post Jan 17, 2009 - 1:24 PM
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Dam Manny, you beat me before I could reply. Shannon wasn't able to take off that Saturday for work, so we will have to do it the weekend of the 31st. Shannon will look in that date on Monday, and I will call you Monday night to confirm.

As Manny said, with it being Winter, it isnt as easy to get away.....for me at least. I plow during the Winter and if there is a chance of snow for that weekend, I will have to cancel. But as Manny said.......THIS WILL GET DONE.


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post Jan 17, 2009 - 1:54 PM
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QUOTE (_Jim_ @ Jan 17, 2009 - 1:24 PM) *
Dam Manny, you beat me before I could reply. Shannon wasn't able to take off that Saturday for work, so we will have to do it the weekend of the 31st. Shannon will look in that date on Monday, and I will call you Monday night to confirm.

As Manny said, with it being Winter, it isnt as easy to get away.....for me at least. I plow during the Winter and if there is a chance of snow for that weekend, I will have to cancel. But as Manny said.......THIS WILL GET DONE.

awesome jim, that also will give D time to work things out on his end as well, so we can set it so that both of you can get on.

once we get everything confirmed, i will head over to the dyno and get it booked in.


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