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> which bolts, when reassembling car
post Dec 4, 2008 - 11:07 AM
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playr158



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I'm going to start with mostly/all new bolts.

reasons being:

a) I don't know what goes where
b) I've lost that particular bolt
c) Its old nasty/rusted/gooey

d) all the above laugh.gif

now I have choices on what kinda bolt I can use

normal


or
socket cap type (the one on the left)



which would you chose. also remember i'm only putting about 1/2 the bolts back in the car that came out of it

thanks thumbsup.gif

This post has been edited by playr158: Dec 4, 2008 - 11:08 AM
post Dec 4, 2008 - 11:13 AM
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presure2



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socket caps are nice, provided you have the right tools to install and remove them.
(yes, i know its just an allen head, but try reusing those over and over, with crappy tools...)


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post Dec 4, 2008 - 11:14 AM
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playr158



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Yea I know what you mean about over and over. T handle wrenches ftw though
post Dec 4, 2008 - 11:17 AM
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presure2



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QUOTE (playr158 @ Dec 4, 2008 - 11:14 AM) *
Yea I know what you mean about over and over. T handle wrenches ftw though

agreed. wink.gif i dont care what anyone says, they may be expensive as hell, but you cant beat that damn snap on truck!


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post Dec 4, 2008 - 11:26 AM
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brthrurik

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The only problem with T-handles is you need pretty good clearance to get into the bolt. Not always the case in an automobile. so use hex head in close tolerance locations and soket cap everywhere else...

This post has been edited by brthrurik: Dec 4, 2008 - 11:27 AM
post Dec 4, 2008 - 11:29 AM
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playr158



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QUOTE (brthrurik @ Dec 4, 2008 - 11:26 AM) *
The only problem with T-handles is you need pretty good clearance to get into the bolt. Not always the case in an automobile. so use hex head in close tolerance locations and soket cap everywhere else...


1/4" socket + extensions tongue.gif

but good point. Suggestion noted smile.gif
post Dec 4, 2008 - 11:30 AM
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pipes

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I would say normal style because as we all know when doing end links rust will not be your friend....and the repeated on off ....rounded bolts come off with turbo sockets so no worry there just my opinion
post Dec 4, 2008 - 11:40 AM
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3TST



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QUOTE
The only problem with T-handles is you need pretty good clearance to get into the bolt. Not always the case in an automobile. so use hex head in close tolerance locations and socket cap everywhere else...
thumbsup.gif
Only thing I'll add is get them in Stainless Steel so they don't rust.
post Dec 4, 2008 - 11:57 AM
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playr158



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hopefully it won't rust. This car will never see water again except to be washed laugh.gif

SS :check:

oh and just for helpful info since it was mentioned:
if you round of the end of a socket cap style bolt, you can remove it easily by using an extractor bit set. thumbsup.gif
post Dec 4, 2008 - 11:58 AM
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presure2



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those are your best friend.
i'd get the stubby ones for clearance, clarence wink.gif


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post Dec 4, 2008 - 12:01 PM
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playr158



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soo Pressure you like it stubby huh?! wink.gif
post Dec 4, 2008 - 12:06 PM
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pipes

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Yeah I got that set.....turbo sockets and extracter I think we were talking the same thing lol.....
post Dec 4, 2008 - 12:10 PM
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playr158



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post Dec 4, 2008 - 12:25 PM
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presure2



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mmmm tooooollllssss...
my wifes worst enemy!!!!


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post Dec 4, 2008 - 12:34 PM
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DEATH



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Hey - I know she must have at least 30 pairs of shoes - you know for different purposes they say right? Well we need an entire Garage full of tools for all the different purposes. At least that's the justification I used to use back when I was married and [for some odd reason] felt like I had to explain myself. And it worked well too cause my ex literally had over 150 pairs of shoes/boots/sandals etc when we stopped counting and enough outfits to go with them rolleyes.gif

Playr - SS is great but don't forget you can't use it everywhere. Also don't forget to pay attn to the specified grades for things like suspension, exhaust and engine bolts [Tho I suspect you already knew this and were really talking about GP fasteners]


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post Dec 4, 2008 - 1:32 PM
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playr158



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these bolts are more for body stuff, interior.

suspension and engine bolts will probably just be OEM or equivalents
post Dec 4, 2008 - 1:54 PM
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samir0189



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i prefer the regular old style, the ones that require the TORX or allen key type tools to take it out are more prone to stripping/slipping imo (from my experiences.. and i was really screwed. laugh.gif )


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post Dec 4, 2008 - 3:59 PM
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lagos



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The stainless socket types are really nice looking for body panels and stuff, but they can get incredibly expensive when you buy a lot of them.


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post Dec 4, 2008 - 7:44 PM
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playr158



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i'd like aluminum because they don't rust and they are light (LTW ftw).

~5-9 dollars per box of 25 depending on size
post Dec 4, 2008 - 9:12 PM
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brthrurik

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QUOTE (playr158 @ Dec 4, 2008 - 4:44 PM) *
i'd like aluminum because they don't rust and they are light (LTW ftw).

~5-9 dollars per box of 25 depending on size


and extremely easy to strip... even vibration can cause aluminum threads to wear down...

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