Rear suspension problems Options

[JonMarkos]

Hey guys, looking for some input from those with more knowledge than me. My right rear wheel clunks when I drive. It sounds almost exactly like it would if you have ever driven off from somewhere without tightening your lug nuts all the way (my lug nuts are tightened all the way). I also have on new tires so that is not the problem. Is there a bearing in there that will go out causing this to happen? I noticed that the clunking goes away when I am going around corners which I attribute to the wheel being pushed up against whatever is loose (if that makes sense). Any help is greatly appreciated, thank you.

[Salica]

not sure but look at struts(shocks) , strut mounts, that your spring are sitting correctly. check the e brake assembly someone had some noise coming from there a while back. other than that make sure everything is tighten and look for abnormalities.

-good luck

[trdproven]

make sure your strut nut is tight
endlinks are not gone
sway bar bushings are not gone
not confident that it is strut mounts or shocks since it is the rear since the rears have lots of travel room. Plus your car is not low. if it were shocks, it would be rattling, couldn't be a strut mount because they just sit there in the rear unlike the fronts that turn. Cannot be springs not seated right because they create popping clunks, like you can really tell the springs cause it.

[jimmykay]

Is the sound constant? or is it just once in a while, like going over bumps?

[JonMarkos]

Salica, I'm pretty sure it is not my struts or springs.
TRD I'll double check my endlinks and sway bar bushing although I don't see how those would cause this noise.
Jimmy, the sound is constant when driving straight.

[jimmykay]

Griffgirl had a post not too long ago that sounds like it might be similar to what you've got going on.

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=65030

check that out and see.

[JonMarkos]

Griffgirl describes a grinding noise. My vehicle makes a thumping noise, almost exactly like what lil joe mentioned when he posted in that thread. It is related to the wheel because the noise speeds up or decreases along with how fast I am driving.

[trdproven]

Salica, I'm pretty sure it is not my struts or springs.
TRD I'll double check my endlinks and sway bar bushing although I don't see how those would cause this noise.
Jimmy, the sound is constant when driving straight.

if no sway bar bushings the bar will move around and clank around the bracket. If the endlinks are bad, they will move around like a broken joint. I've done suspension many times and have changed these parts out for many cars.

[trdproven]

lift up your car wiggle your wheel from top and bottom and left to right. if its loose theres your problem. This will also prevent alignment.

[JonMarkos]

TRD you are the man. Although I was wrong on the side. It is my driver's side rear wheel, and it appears that it is a bushing that has gone out allowing the wheel to wiggle while driving. Here is a picture



The writing I did is tiny but the bushing on the left is bad.



In this picture it is the rod closest that has the bad bushing on the end. Does anyone know if it is possible to remove that bolt and just replace the bushing inside of there or do I need to buy a new rod? Also, what is the real name of that rod so I can look it up? Thanks for the help so far.

[JonMarkos]

After looking at the rear schematics closely I believe it is going to be number 5 in this diagram that I need



I may even end up needing number 2 since the wobbling of number 5 may have loosened up number 2 as well. It is listed at 1sttoyotaparts.com as the rear arm. 1sttoyotaparts has it listed separately for years 95-99 and for convertible, or coupe w/ or w/o sport package. Is there actually a difference?

[Galcobar]

Figured that'd be the cause -- those are the suspension arms, and they are infamous for the mysterious clunk when driving over less than perfectly flat roads.

Unfortunately, it's not a bushing. The ends of those arms use spherical bearings, which while theoretically replaceable would cost about as much or more to get the bearings, plus the cost of removal and replacement.

The rearmost of the pair is the No. 2 suspension arm (the front is the No. 1 suspension arm, further differentiated by L -- driver's side -- and R). You're pretty much stuck replacing the entire arm, which runs about US$90 from 1sttoyotaparts.com (it's identified there as a lateral arm under the rear suspension section).

The long bolt running through the axle carrier is likely seized and will be extremely difficult to remove -- albeit not impossible. If you can get the nut off it, replacing the No. 2 arm is actually quite easy. The No. 1 arm is much more involved.

Actually, I had to replace both my No. 2 arms on my 1990 GT, and decided to use the sixth-gen suspension arms because the toe adjuster is threaded rather than the easily misaligned eccentric cam used on fifth-gens. Here's a link to a guide I wrote for Celicatech: http://www.celicatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34935

[the1]

You can also bushes of Super Pro take.

Super Pro

OEM bushes boring the easiest way around to pierce the rubber, metal sleeve out and the remaining rubber spring almost out of myself.



ST205 and ST185

Toyota Streben Nr. 48780A -> SuperPro SPF0823K





Toyota Streben Nr. 48710A + 48720A -> SuperPro SPF2264K

[trdproven]

yea tie rods are also infamous for breaking. ^ those look real good, are they really made for st202 and st204?

[Galcobar]

Given the equipment pictured is for the ST205, I'd be really surprised. Moreover, the ST205 originally used rubber bushings, versus the ST204 using spherical bearings -- the rear wheels being drive wheels for the GT4.