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> engine rebuild help, ???
post Feb 26, 2009 - 7:04 PM
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TJH4EVA

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ok i got a rebuild kit with oversized rod bearing(0.030"/0.75mm, oversize main bearing(0.030"/0.75mm), and oversized bore(0.040"/1.00mm). the kit also came with
* Full Overhaul Gasket Set
* Pistons and Piston Rings
* Freeze Plug Set
* Main Bearings
* Rod Bearings
* Thrust Washers

my question is what do i do about the rods because they didnt come with it and what else do i need for the rebuild.
post Feb 27, 2009 - 11:54 PM
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stephen_lee



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use stock rods. get new rod bolts, though.
also need:
axle seals
gear oil/tranny fluid
engine coolant
oil && oil filter
throw out bearing(pilot bearing) if manual
Assy. lube to lubricate ALL parts during assembly
water pump
timing belt and tensioner
*oil pump (borderline req'd)
*cap, rotor, plugs, wires and PCV valve
*Fuel filter
*change brake/power steering fluid
*clutch/resurface flywheel


things with the star (*) are not required but highly recommended

This post has been edited by stephen_lee: Feb 27, 2009 - 11:56 PM


--------------------
QUOTE
"And, as always, your friendship, help, and dedication to the advancement of Texas Celica dominance is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks bro." -DEATH

1994 GT: V6 swap, 5speed E53 W/ LSD, All Power, now RED
1995 ST: SOLD @273k miles, Auto, all power, CarPC, White
1994 ST: Totaled, 5spd, all power, Red RIP 07/09/09 @ 241,810
1994 Lexus LS400: This is my new DD
post Feb 28, 2009 - 12:18 AM
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TJH4EVA

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QUOTE (stephen_lee @ Feb 27, 2009 - 11:54 PM) *
use stock rods. get new rod bolts, though.
also need:
axle seals
gear oil/tranny fluid
engine coolant
oil && oil filter
throw out bearing(pilot bearing) if manual
Assy. lube to lubricate ALL parts during assembly
water pump
timing belt and tensioner
*oil pump (borderline req'd)
*cap, rotor, plugs, wires and PCV valve
*Fuel filter
*change brake/power steering fluid
*clutch/resurface flywheel


things with the star (*) are not required but highly recommended


ok i ordered a clutch kit. did the throw out bearing come with that
post Feb 28, 2009 - 1:16 AM
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stephen_lee



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QUOTE (TJH4EVA @ Feb 27, 2009 - 11:18 PM) *
QUOTE (stephen_lee @ Feb 27, 2009 - 11:54 PM) *
use stock rods. get new rod bolts, though.
also need:
axle seals
gear oil/tranny fluid
engine coolant
oil && oil filter
throw out bearing(pilot bearing) if manual
Assy. lube to lubricate ALL parts during assembly
water pump
timing belt and tensioner
*oil pump (borderline req'd)
*cap, rotor, plugs, wires and PCV valve
*Fuel filter
*change brake/power steering fluid
*clutch/resurface flywheel


things with the star (*) are not required but highly recommended


ok i ordered a clutch kit. did the throw out bearing come with that



yes. if not i'd go w/ another brand lol


--------------------
QUOTE
"And, as always, your friendship, help, and dedication to the advancement of Texas Celica dominance is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks bro." -DEATH

1994 GT: V6 swap, 5speed E53 W/ LSD, All Power, now RED
1995 ST: SOLD @273k miles, Auto, all power, CarPC, White
1994 ST: Totaled, 5spd, all power, Red RIP 07/09/09 @ 241,810
1994 Lexus LS400: This is my new DD
post Mar 3, 2009 - 12:41 PM
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nightryder

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i would have to disagree, i think it would be best to get aftermarket rods. I always thought the weak point in our engines were the rods.... so my recomendation would be forged rods if u got the caaaassh smile.gif


--------------------
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The question is not how far. The question is, do you possess the constitution, the depth of faith, to go as far as is needed?
post Mar 3, 2009 - 12:54 PM
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stephen_lee



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QUOTE (nightryder @ Mar 3, 2009 - 11:41 AM) *
i would have to disagree, i think it would be best to get aftermarket rods. I always thought the weak point in our engines were the rods.... so my recomendation would be forged rods if u got the caaaassh smile.gif


weak point in 7a IS rods, but more specifically the rod BOLTS. now if he is doing a stock rebuild(i assume bc he got a 'kit') he wont be throwing high power/rpms at them and stock rods w/ new(aftermarket if you can find them) bolts will serve another 200,000+ miles if all else is done right.


--------------------
QUOTE
"And, as always, your friendship, help, and dedication to the advancement of Texas Celica dominance is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks bro." -DEATH

1994 GT: V6 swap, 5speed E53 W/ LSD, All Power, now RED
1995 ST: SOLD @273k miles, Auto, all power, CarPC, White
1994 ST: Totaled, 5spd, all power, Red RIP 07/09/09 @ 241,810
1994 Lexus LS400: This is my new DD
post Mar 3, 2009 - 1:17 PM
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nightryder

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QUOTE (stephen_lee @ Mar 3, 2009 - 1:54 PM) *
QUOTE (nightryder @ Mar 3, 2009 - 11:41 AM) *
i would have to disagree, i think it would be best to get aftermarket rods. I always thought the weak point in our engines were the rods.... so my recomendation would be forged rods if u got the caaaassh smile.gif


weak point in 7a IS rods, but more specifically the rod BOLTS. now if he is doing a stock rebuild(i assume bc he got a 'kit') he wont be throwing high power/rpms at them and stock rods w/ new(aftermarket if you can find them) bolts will serve another 200,000+ miles if all else is done right.

owned.gif amen!..... but in my defense I thot we were talkin about a 5s

This post has been edited by nightryder: Mar 3, 2009 - 1:19 PM


--------------------
IPB Image
The question is not how far. The question is, do you possess the constitution, the depth of faith, to go as far as is needed?
post Mar 3, 2009 - 2:47 PM
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soulshadow



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IF you get new rod bolts, you have to balance your rod with the new bolts and piston. Either way you have to take it to a shop and have them balance it out for you.

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