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Enthusiast ![]() Joined Dec 13, '07 From NEWPORT NEWS, VA Currently Offline Reputation: -3 (20%) ![]() |
ok i got a rebuild kit with oversized rod bearing(0.030"/0.75mm, oversize main bearing(0.030"/0.75mm), and oversized bore(0.040"/1.00mm). the kit also came with
* Full Overhaul Gasket Set * Pistons and Piston Rings * Freeze Plug Set * Main Bearings * Rod Bearings * Thrust Washers my question is what do i do about the rods because they didnt come with it and what else do i need for the rebuild. |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Mar 22, '07 From Houston, TX Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) ![]() |
use stock rods. get new rod bolts, though.
also need: axle seals gear oil/tranny fluid engine coolant oil && oil filter throw out bearing(pilot bearing) if manual Assy. lube to lubricate ALL parts during assembly water pump timing belt and tensioner *oil pump (borderline req'd) *cap, rotor, plugs, wires and PCV valve *Fuel filter *change brake/power steering fluid *clutch/resurface flywheel things with the star (*) are not required but highly recommended This post has been edited by stephen_lee: Feb 27, 2009 - 11:56 PM -------------------- QUOTE "And, as always, your friendship, help, and dedication to the advancement of Texas Celica dominance is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks bro." -DEATH 1994 GT: V6 swap, 5speed E53 W/ LSD, All Power, now RED 1995 ST: SOLD @273k miles, Auto, all power, CarPC, White 1994 ST: Totaled, 5spd, all power, Red RIP 07/09/09 @ 241,810 1994 Lexus LS400: This is my new DD |
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Enthusiast ![]() Joined Dec 13, '07 From NEWPORT NEWS, VA Currently Offline Reputation: -3 (20%) ![]() |
use stock rods. get new rod bolts, though. also need: axle seals gear oil/tranny fluid engine coolant oil && oil filter throw out bearing(pilot bearing) if manual Assy. lube to lubricate ALL parts during assembly water pump timing belt and tensioner *oil pump (borderline req'd) *cap, rotor, plugs, wires and PCV valve *Fuel filter *change brake/power steering fluid *clutch/resurface flywheel things with the star (*) are not required but highly recommended ok i ordered a clutch kit. did the throw out bearing come with that |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Mar 22, '07 From Houston, TX Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) ![]() |
use stock rods. get new rod bolts, though. also need: axle seals gear oil/tranny fluid engine coolant oil && oil filter throw out bearing(pilot bearing) if manual Assy. lube to lubricate ALL parts during assembly water pump timing belt and tensioner *oil pump (borderline req'd) *cap, rotor, plugs, wires and PCV valve *Fuel filter *change brake/power steering fluid *clutch/resurface flywheel things with the star (*) are not required but highly recommended ok i ordered a clutch kit. did the throw out bearing come with that yes. if not i'd go w/ another brand lol -------------------- QUOTE "And, as always, your friendship, help, and dedication to the advancement of Texas Celica dominance is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks bro." -DEATH 1994 GT: V6 swap, 5speed E53 W/ LSD, All Power, now RED 1995 ST: SOLD @273k miles, Auto, all power, CarPC, White 1994 ST: Totaled, 5spd, all power, Red RIP 07/09/09 @ 241,810 1994 Lexus LS400: This is my new DD |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Sep 29, '05 From Rochester, Massachusetts Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) ![]() |
i would have to disagree, i think it would be best to get aftermarket rods. I always thought the weak point in our engines were the rods.... so my recomendation would be forged rods if u got the caaaassh
![]() -------------------- ![]() The question is not how far. The question is, do you possess the constitution, the depth of faith, to go as far as is needed? |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Mar 22, '07 From Houston, TX Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) ![]() |
i would have to disagree, i think it would be best to get aftermarket rods. I always thought the weak point in our engines were the rods.... so my recomendation would be forged rods if u got the caaaassh ![]() weak point in 7a IS rods, but more specifically the rod BOLTS. now if he is doing a stock rebuild(i assume bc he got a 'kit') he wont be throwing high power/rpms at them and stock rods w/ new(aftermarket if you can find them) bolts will serve another 200,000+ miles if all else is done right. -------------------- QUOTE "And, as always, your friendship, help, and dedication to the advancement of Texas Celica dominance is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks bro." -DEATH 1994 GT: V6 swap, 5speed E53 W/ LSD, All Power, now RED 1995 ST: SOLD @273k miles, Auto, all power, CarPC, White 1994 ST: Totaled, 5spd, all power, Red RIP 07/09/09 @ 241,810 1994 Lexus LS400: This is my new DD |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Sep 29, '05 From Rochester, Massachusetts Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) ![]() |
i would have to disagree, i think it would be best to get aftermarket rods. I always thought the weak point in our engines were the rods.... so my recomendation would be forged rods if u got the caaaassh ![]() weak point in 7a IS rods, but more specifically the rod BOLTS. now if he is doing a stock rebuild(i assume bc he got a 'kit') he wont be throwing high power/rpms at them and stock rods w/ new(aftermarket if you can find them) bolts will serve another 200,000+ miles if all else is done right. ![]() This post has been edited by nightryder: Mar 3, 2009 - 1:19 PM -------------------- ![]() The question is not how far. The question is, do you possess the constitution, the depth of faith, to go as far as is needed? |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 18, '05 From Lincoln, Ar Currently Offline Reputation: 7 (100%) ![]() |
IF you get new rod bolts, you have to balance your rod with the new bolts and piston. Either way you have to take it to a shop and have them balance it out for you.
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