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> TurboCharger project from scrap for Do-IT-Yourself, Turbocharging your car from parts gather
post Jun 8, 2003 - 7:59 PM
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west_minist



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Nology M80
Primary Resistance:0.22
Peak Current:600MA
Secondary Resistance:0.77Kohm
Spark Duration:170uS
Maximum Voltage:50K
Primary Inductance:1.720mH
Turns Ratio:65.96

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CraneCams LX92
Primary resistance: 0.23
Secondary resistance: 0.91K
Primary inductance: 1.7 mH
Secondary inductance: 5.7 H
Leakage inductance: 0.14 mH
Turns ratio: 60:1

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MSD
Blaster HVC Coil, PN 8252
Primary Resistance: 0.2 ohms
Peak Current: 300mA
Secondary Resistance: 1.38K ohms
Spark Duration: 200uS
Maximum Voltage: 42,000 volts
Primary Inductance: 7mH

Blaster HVC II, PN 8253*
Primary Resistance: 0.16 ohms
Peak Current: 450 mA
Secondary Resistance: 630 ohms
Spark Duration: 450 uS
Maximum Voltage: 44,000 volts
Inductance: 3.5 mH
Turns Ratio: 100:1

Pro Power Coil, PN 8201
Primary Resistance: 0.03
Secondary Resistance: 1000 Maximum
Voltage: 55K
OhmsTurns Ratio: 100:1

Pro Power HVC Coil, PN 8251
Primary Resistance: 0.04 ohms
Peak Current: 1100mA
Secondary Resistance: 86 ohms Spark
Duration: 150uS
Maximum Voltage: 45,000 volts
Primary Inductance: 1mH
Turns Ratio: 85:1

HVC-2 Coil, PN 8261
Primary Resistance: 0.016 ohms
Secondary Resistance: 30 ohms
Maximum Voltage: 45,000 volts
Inductance: 0.250 mH
Turns Ratio: 70:1
Peak Current: 2 Amps
Spark Duration: 150 uS

This post has been edited by west_minist: Sep 7, 2003 - 7:10 AM
post Jun 12, 2003 - 1:23 AM
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FAQdaWorld



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I am actually doing the 4agze swap, hopefully the engine will be here in the next week or two, but i'm wondering. If i got some sort of piggy back computer system, how hard is it to program, is this the type of thing that you need a whole lot of knowledge about air fuel ratio's etc etc, or is there some simpler model available? I the the APEX AFC says only someone particularly knowledgeable should perform adjustments, so that to me sounds like i shouldnt touch lol. I will probably be getting an aftermarket computer as well, so would you guys reccomend it for the 4agze?

Just some random thoughts from me....

THX, in advance....


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post Jun 12, 2003 - 6:59 AM
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west_minist



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The 4agze ecu controls the supercharger.

As I always tell people, the Z is always the limitation in this setup.

My recommendation to use is to change to a turbo setup which is not hard at all.

By going this direction, it would be easy for you.

Autronic SM & SM2 have autotune mode which learn the basic for an engine. After that tune can be easy, but take a while.

I would alway recommend an aftermarket computer if you can afford rewiring , if you cannot get a harness adapter.

Give Autronics a call and see if there have a harness adapter for the 4AGE. But let them know that you have a 4AGZE which will become a 4AGE or 4AGTE.

Any adjustment of and ecu takes time and you need to have some basic knowledge on what you are looking for, and what changes affect another.

If this does not frightened you, then go ahead.
post Jun 16, 2003 - 12:41 AM
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west_minist



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Custom Headers anyone!

For sometime, the Header topics keeps on popping up on the forum.

I will put this to rest if I can (and you have some money.)

I do not know how much it cost, but a small cost is well worth it from the experience.

Please use this link to your full and devoted HP advantage.

Burns Stainless
http://www.burnsstainless.com
1013 W. 18th St.
Costa Mesa
Ca 92627

949-631-5120
vince@burnsstainless.com

This post has been edited by west_minist: Jun 29, 2003 - 7:35 AM
post Jun 29, 2003 - 7:44 AM
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west_minist



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High Performance Radiators and Fans

I came across this fantastic manufacture that produces cooling systems for your high performance car.

The name of this company is C&R Racing Inc. http://www.crracing.com

There offer:-

By-Pass Filter Mount
C&R Stop Leak & Water Conditioner
Check Valves
Filter Mounts
Fittings
Heat Exchangers
Hose Connectors
Import Radiators
Integrated Cooling System
Oil Cooler By-Pass Valve
Peterson Accessories
Peterson Fuel Filters
Peterson Oil Tanks
Quick Disconnects
Radiator Caps
Radiator Fans
Radiator Necks
Scirocco Drag Radiators
Setrab Oil Coolers
Staking Tools
Surge Tanks
Thermostat Check Valves
Thermostats
Water Pumps


There produces cooling systems parts for Indy 500, Daytona 500, Brickyard 400, WSC 24-hours of Daytona and Sebring and many more, and parts on cars which won championships in CART, NASCAR Winston Cup, Busch, and Supertruck, IMSA WSC, SCCA Trans-Am, WOO Sprint Car, USAC, IRL, and NHRA.

This manufacturer appeared in Modified magazine.

Catalogues:- http://www.crracing.com/catalogs/

My interest came about in C&R Racing due to the fact that my Subaru fan is going.

SPAL fans are small and produce more cfm than stock and are available in many different sizes to meet your needs. http://www.crracing.com/estore/partdesc.cf...tegory=rad_fans
post Jul 26, 2003 - 6:51 PM
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west_minist



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This is an update on the Bridgestone Potenza GIII tires which I purchase to replace the Toyo Proxes RA1 on my front.

The tires are breaking well. When my trusted dealer told me so, I said, "you are kidding. That long?"

This is more than 2-3months now.

But! He was correct. All my other tires told just 2-3 days of aggressive driving to get them in line.

But I must report, the wet handling has improve a great deal. I am very proud of them and can only wonder how the S03 PP and the RE01 would behave since the GIII is slightly below the S03. The GIII is more a High Performance/MAX??? tire. Just missing Silica implants.

The dry handling has also increase by a good bit. My brakes have a hard time holding. Have to press them hard to stop.

I would advice anyone to get the S03 if you can. Very great tires.
post Jul 27, 2003 - 10:20 PM
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jayi12-15psi

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I think this might be the largest topic in the history of 6gc

and most of it seems to be west talking to himself tongue.gif


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post Jul 28, 2003 - 4:27 PM
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west_minist



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It really looks so.

He is one mad dude. wink.gif
post Aug 2, 2003 - 7:14 AM
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Yesterday, I spend the hold day researching rotors and brake pads and brake fluid for my upcoming project for the Toyota Corolla GT.

I decided to change from a celica to a Corolla GT.

Either way, you might find this info very interesting.

Sometime back, I was on Tirerack.com and I had printed off some brake pad info.

I wanted the same stopping power my stock subaru has, which does not have ABS.

Currently, the 2 brake pads that I am looking at are the Hawk HP Plus Brake Pads, EBC Greenstuff Disc Brake Pads OR EBC Redstuff Disc Brake Pads.

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/hawk/index.jsp
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/ebc/index.jsp http://www.ebcbrakes.com/

I would choose Hawk first due to its background and possibly if high friction coefficient of over 0.45 microns. But I could not find any detail info on that number, except for some info stated that hawk goes right up to 0.68microns.

I also decided to look at EBC Rotors. The stats on them looks good and there are also use in race clubs which helps me to keep cost down until I can get a big brake kit later on.

The brake fluid research was kind of surprising. I did not know that thee had Dot 5 and DOT 5.1 and I now fully understand Dry and Wet Temp for brake fluid.

If you are looking to race or have some club even and you realise that you have some brake problems, try some good brake fluid that have a dry temp over 500 degrees celcius.

This link below will help you in your quest for knownledge.
http://www.raceshopper.com/brake_fluid_faq.shtml
http://www.raceshopper.com/brake_fluid.shtml

While you are there, please take a look at Redline WaterWetter that is use in racing cooling systems. mix this with some distill water and you are good to go with a better cooling system for racing use.
http://www.raceshopper.com/other_fluids.shtml

This post has been edited by west_minist: Sep 9, 2003 - 7:00 PM
post Aug 13, 2003 - 5:46 PM
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FallenHero



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Let me through this out here: I've been thinking of findind an old 88-90 MR-2 with a 4agze. I want to do this to get the engine at LOW cost. I was thinking of re-building the engine with forged pistons and a JUN crankshaft. I would re-build the head, but I don't really see much of a need for major upgrades to it other than adjustable cam gears.

I plan to turbo it. I'd like to get the engine bullit proof if you get my drift. You once said it'd be better to build a 20v for a turbo application, but I would think a built early model 4agze would work just as well, and cost FAR less, especially if built properly.

Also, I've been reading up on assorted turbos, and was wondering if you guys could go over differences in turbo size, compressor size, etc. What is ideal for our smaller toyota engines? Also, I've seen many CT-26 turbos floating around, and was wondering where I would look for a re-build kit to make them worth while. Thanks
Jon
post Aug 13, 2003 - 7:28 PM
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west_minist



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I would never say buillding a 20v is better.

The 20v block is strong, but not as strong as the 4agze block.

The 20v is a nice project and have made it up to the 600hp mark with alot of money.

What I must say is that the head is a better head than the 4agze head.

Ok. enough with that.

Good choice on turboing it.

I must tell you that with a jun crank and piston, its a waste of time to leave everything stock.

Go for a head and port job, vavle train and cams, just to name a few. Also, new throttle bodies and a custom built surge tank for high boost.

Turbos are very easy to diced on.

I would advice a rebore to 1.8 specs and then look for a nice 2l turbo since you will be running upto 30psi of boost and power..

Depending on your aim of hp, a nice HKS (or garret) GT2835 or GT3037S would do.

Turbomagazine and Modified Mag have very well topics on turbos and how to calculate for one and use the turbo mapping graphs to decide on a specify turbo.

Get them and you will be good.

The CT26 is good, but forget about them and go with a Garret or HKS one.

There is so much to do, create a topic one it and we can discuss it there.

Just decide what you want, money to spend, and what you are willing to give up.

post Aug 23, 2003 - 7:27 AM
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I will be getting a MSD Digital 7 Plus w/ HVC II.

The MDS Digital 6 I had failed and I returned it for the MSD Digital 7.

I will be testing this (unfortunately on Nology wires) when it arrives next week and I will let everyone knows what different it makes on a semi stock car.

Setup:
1986 Subaru EA82
2" pipe to a Magnaflow Muffler
Nology Wires
Racing Plugs
Well tune Engine
Timing @ 16 degrees

Not much as you can see, but the car has a carb. so I will not be expecting much gains until I get a 4age 20V black top early next year.

Stay tune smile.gif

This post has been edited by west_minist: Sep 7, 2003 - 7:15 AM
post Sep 7, 2003 - 7:28 AM
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Well, I tested the MSD Digital 7 Plus for 2 days w/ the HVC II.

I must say that the behaviour of the car was like having a small turbo transitioning into a big turbo slowly.

As expected, the subaru sounded different. The Exhaust note, already low and deep, dropped even lower. I had to add a little more fuel to prevent from going lean.

Driving was an experience all over a gain. Torque was there off the line and keeps on going to the 7000rpm rev limit. Just cruising and need that extra, it was always there.

Now please note here. I had a low resistance solid core wire going from the big massive coil to the distributor cap. That wire after a while, started to get a little hot. I felt no increase in heat on the Nology cables. I would advice any one when there use this device to pick up some MSD wire.

The MSD Digital 7 was made for drag racing, but my continuous driving on it showed no increase temperature like the msd digital 6. The HVC II coil temperature was warm, but did not continue to rise. With the advice from MSD, I can use this configuration on the street. Also, if you were playing close attention to the japs, there run this same configurations in their street cars.

I firmly believe that if a fuel injected car was to use this box with all the mods stated at the beginning of this long continuous thread, you will gain tremendous hp and torque.

Good luck

This post has been edited by west_minist: Sep 20, 2003 - 10:06 AM


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http://www.socob.bb
http://xtremeracingtuning.com

Viciously Tuned, Driven Hard

post Sep 8, 2003 - 12:32 AM
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holy s#%$ your a madman. I never meet anyone with such knowledge its incredible.
post Sep 9, 2003 - 9:43 AM
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You can be like me.

Would you believe me that 2 years ago, I just barely knew about cars?

This post has been edited by west_minist: Sep 27, 2003 - 4:03 PM
post Sep 27, 2003 - 4:12 PM
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west_minist



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Today, I added an additional 4ft of 2.25" piping from my last install up to the 2.5" inlet Magnaflow muffler.

The once Loud Pulsating Subaru is now tame and very quiet. The Rev are now revving throughout all the way down to 7000+rpms.

I still have the low end, but tremendous top end.

The once loud noise, have been calm now to a deep growl, but not as deep with the magnaflow resonator in. If it was, the deepness would be unbearable. I spent $80Us dollars to get the job done.

I still have the great tremendous air pressure coming from a 4inch 1ft.25” in length (tip) from the exhaust.
post Nov 8, 2003 - 5:49 PM
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Hi Everyone!

It has been some time that I have not contribute to the knowledge database!

The Kakimoto Exhaust systems are very good systems and offers alot of hp & torque, compare to the other brand name models like HKS, greddy and so forth. As usual, Kakimoto Racing takes part in racing, so their products are extensively tested for performance, just like HKS, Cusco and others.

These exhaust are very expensive, but the gains are tremendous. Last review was done on a Subaru WRX (I think Turbo Magazine, too lazy to look thorugh all of my magazines) and the specs produce makes you wonder if the HKS Titanium could beat the Kakimoto Exhaust systems.

To visit their site, please go to http://www.kakimotoracing.co.jp

http://www.kakimotoracing.co.jp/01-01-01_n1.html

To translate this site, use http://babelfish.altavista.com/





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West_Minist

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http://www.socob.bb
http://xtremeracingtuning.com

Viciously Tuned, Driven Hard

post Nov 10, 2003 - 8:59 AM
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Man this info is incredible. Good work there !

I got a question tough. I got a 3SGE engine that is about 175 hp stock (thats what is listed here in the netherlands, but i believe the engine should be 170 hp). What is the best (and cheapest) way to gain a bit more power without turbo charging it ? My goal is about 200 hp, and i want a faster 0-60 time. Stock its 8 seconds, and i want about 7 seconds. Got any tips on this one ?

Also, if i would have alot of money, cant i just replace all the parts of my 3SGE engine with parts of the GT4 3SGTE (3rd gen) engine ?? Is this possible or do i need major adjustments to do this ?



post Nov 10, 2003 - 8:09 PM
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west_minist



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My whole thread has everything you want.

I will start a new thread with what you want and I will answer from there. I like to keep this thread short as possible.

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?act=ST&f=4&t=7290

This post has been edited by west_minist: Nov 10, 2003 - 8:11 PM


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http://www.socob.bb
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Viciously Tuned, Driven Hard

post Dec 3, 2003 - 4:05 AM
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QUOTE (Charlie97L @ Jan 19, 2003 - 10:01 AM)
i think that this topic should be renamed. i had the impression upon entering it that it was going to be a discussion of 7afte or 5sfte, not building up a 3sgte.

also, i fail to see how an Apexi rev/speed meter (among other things) are a required part for a turbo project. that doesn't do anything other than display status information.

sorry, i'm not attacking anyone, i just don't see how a laundry list of 3sgte parts is going to help anyone get together a "Do-IT-Youself" turbo project.

hmm ther is a hack that can be done with a super afc it goes like this oversixed injectors an af meter an exhaust temp probe and a lotta dyno time. over sized injectors to put out the extra fuel and the afc to cut it back under low throttle and the afc to up the fuel under high throttle the afc is adjustable in 5oo rpm increments and u can curve your fuel usage to the amount of boost being run. "the only replacement for displacement is boost".....or something like that. biggrin.gif

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