TurboCharger project from scrap for Do-IT-Yourself, Turbocharging your car from parts gather |
TurboCharger project from scrap for Do-IT-Yourself, Turbocharging your car from parts gather |
Jun 8, 2003 - 7:59 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 27, '02 From Barbados Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Nology M80
Primary Resistance:0.22 Peak Current:600MA Secondary Resistance:0.77Kohm Spark Duration:170uS Maximum Voltage:50K Primary Inductance:1.720mH Turns Ratio:65.96 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- CraneCams LX92 Primary resistance: 0.23 Secondary resistance: 0.91K Primary inductance: 1.7 mH Secondary inductance: 5.7 H Leakage inductance: 0.14 mH Turns ratio: 60:1 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MSD Blaster HVC Coil, PN 8252 Primary Resistance: 0.2 ohms Peak Current: 300mA Secondary Resistance: 1.38K ohms Spark Duration: 200uS Maximum Voltage: 42,000 volts Primary Inductance: 7mH Blaster HVC II, PN 8253* Primary Resistance: 0.16 ohms Peak Current: 450 mA Secondary Resistance: 630 ohms Spark Duration: 450 uS Maximum Voltage: 44,000 volts Inductance: 3.5 mH Turns Ratio: 100:1 Pro Power Coil, PN 8201 Primary Resistance: 0.03 Secondary Resistance: 1000 Maximum Voltage: 55K OhmsTurns Ratio: 100:1 Pro Power HVC Coil, PN 8251 Primary Resistance: 0.04 ohms Peak Current: 1100mA Secondary Resistance: 86 ohms Spark Duration: 150uS Maximum Voltage: 45,000 volts Primary Inductance: 1mH Turns Ratio: 85:1 HVC-2 Coil, PN 8261 Primary Resistance: 0.016 ohms Secondary Resistance: 30 ohms Maximum Voltage: 45,000 volts Inductance: 0.250 mH Turns Ratio: 70:1 Peak Current: 2 Amps Spark Duration: 150 uS This post has been edited by west_minist: Sep 7, 2003 - 7:10 AM |
Jun 12, 2003 - 1:23 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 24, '03 From Milton, Delaware Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
I am actually doing the 4agze swap, hopefully the engine will be here in the next week or two, but i'm wondering. If i got some sort of piggy back computer system, how hard is it to program, is this the type of thing that you need a whole lot of knowledge about air fuel ratio's etc etc, or is there some simpler model available? I the the APEX AFC says only someone particularly knowledgeable should perform adjustments, so that to me sounds like i shouldnt touch lol. I will probably be getting an aftermarket computer as well, so would you guys reccomend it for the 4agze?
Just some random thoughts from me.... THX, in advance.... -------------------- AIM : FAQdaWorld
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Jun 12, 2003 - 6:59 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 27, '02 From Barbados Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
The 4agze ecu controls the supercharger.
As I always tell people, the Z is always the limitation in this setup. My recommendation to use is to change to a turbo setup which is not hard at all. By going this direction, it would be easy for you. Autronic SM & SM2 have autotune mode which learn the basic for an engine. After that tune can be easy, but take a while. I would alway recommend an aftermarket computer if you can afford rewiring , if you cannot get a harness adapter. Give Autronics a call and see if there have a harness adapter for the 4AGE. But let them know that you have a 4AGZE which will become a 4AGE or 4AGTE. Any adjustment of and ecu takes time and you need to have some basic knowledge on what you are looking for, and what changes affect another. If this does not frightened you, then go ahead. |
Jun 16, 2003 - 12:41 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 27, '02 From Barbados Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Custom Headers anyone!
For sometime, the Header topics keeps on popping up on the forum. I will put this to rest if I can (and you have some money.) I do not know how much it cost, but a small cost is well worth it from the experience. Please use this link to your full and devoted HP advantage. Burns Stainless http://www.burnsstainless.com 1013 W. 18th St. Costa Mesa Ca 92627 949-631-5120 vince@burnsstainless.com This post has been edited by west_minist: Jun 29, 2003 - 7:35 AM |
Jun 29, 2003 - 7:44 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 27, '02 From Barbados Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
High Performance Radiators and Fans
I came across this fantastic manufacture that produces cooling systems for your high performance car. The name of this company is C&R Racing Inc. http://www.crracing.com There offer:- By-Pass Filter Mount C&R Stop Leak & Water Conditioner Check Valves Filter Mounts Fittings Heat Exchangers Hose Connectors Import Radiators Integrated Cooling System Oil Cooler By-Pass Valve Peterson Accessories Peterson Fuel Filters Peterson Oil Tanks Quick Disconnects Radiator Caps Radiator Fans Radiator Necks Scirocco Drag Radiators Setrab Oil Coolers Staking Tools Surge Tanks Thermostat Check Valves Thermostats Water Pumps There produces cooling systems parts for Indy 500, Daytona 500, Brickyard 400, WSC 24-hours of Daytona and Sebring and many more, and parts on cars which won championships in CART, NASCAR Winston Cup, Busch, and Supertruck, IMSA WSC, SCCA Trans-Am, WOO Sprint Car, USAC, IRL, and NHRA. This manufacturer appeared in Modified magazine. Catalogues:- http://www.crracing.com/catalogs/ My interest came about in C&R Racing due to the fact that my Subaru fan is going. SPAL fans are small and produce more cfm than stock and are available in many different sizes to meet your needs. http://www.crracing.com/estore/partdesc.cf...tegory=rad_fans |
Jul 26, 2003 - 6:51 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 27, '02 From Barbados Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
This is an update on the Bridgestone Potenza GIII tires which I purchase to replace the Toyo Proxes RA1 on my front.
The tires are breaking well. When my trusted dealer told me so, I said, "you are kidding. That long?" This is more than 2-3months now. But! He was correct. All my other tires told just 2-3 days of aggressive driving to get them in line. But I must report, the wet handling has improve a great deal. I am very proud of them and can only wonder how the S03 PP and the RE01 would behave since the GIII is slightly below the S03. The GIII is more a High Performance/MAX??? tire. Just missing Silica implants. The dry handling has also increase by a good bit. My brakes have a hard time holding. Have to press them hard to stop. I would advice anyone to get the S03 if you can. Very great tires. |
Jul 27, 2003 - 10:20 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 9, '03 From St. Louis Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
I think this might be the largest topic in the history of 6gc
and most of it seems to be west talking to himself -------------------- [img]http://photos-081.facebook.com/n6/081/n15913038_30266081_3342.jpg[/img]
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Jul 28, 2003 - 4:27 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 27, '02 From Barbados Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
It really looks so.
He is one mad dude. |
Aug 2, 2003 - 7:14 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 27, '02 From Barbados Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Yesterday, I spend the hold day researching rotors and brake pads and brake fluid for my upcoming project for the Toyota Corolla GT.
I decided to change from a celica to a Corolla GT. Either way, you might find this info very interesting. Sometime back, I was on Tirerack.com and I had printed off some brake pad info. I wanted the same stopping power my stock subaru has, which does not have ABS. Currently, the 2 brake pads that I am looking at are the Hawk HP Plus Brake Pads, EBC Greenstuff Disc Brake Pads OR EBC Redstuff Disc Brake Pads. http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/hawk/index.jsp http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/ebc/index.jsp http://www.ebcbrakes.com/ I would choose Hawk first due to its background and possibly if high friction coefficient of over 0.45 microns. But I could not find any detail info on that number, except for some info stated that hawk goes right up to 0.68microns. I also decided to look at EBC Rotors. The stats on them looks good and there are also use in race clubs which helps me to keep cost down until I can get a big brake kit later on. The brake fluid research was kind of surprising. I did not know that thee had Dot 5 and DOT 5.1 and I now fully understand Dry and Wet Temp for brake fluid. If you are looking to race or have some club even and you realise that you have some brake problems, try some good brake fluid that have a dry temp over 500 degrees celcius. This link below will help you in your quest for knownledge. http://www.raceshopper.com/brake_fluid_faq.shtml http://www.raceshopper.com/brake_fluid.shtml While you are there, please take a look at Redline WaterWetter that is use in racing cooling systems. mix this with some distill water and you are good to go with a better cooling system for racing use. http://www.raceshopper.com/other_fluids.shtml This post has been edited by west_minist: Sep 9, 2003 - 7:00 PM |
Aug 13, 2003 - 5:46 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 26, '02 From Alabama Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) |
Let me through this out here: I've been thinking of findind an old 88-90 MR-2 with a 4agze. I want to do this to get the engine at LOW cost. I was thinking of re-building the engine with forged pistons and a JUN crankshaft. I would re-build the head, but I don't really see much of a need for major upgrades to it other than adjustable cam gears.
I plan to turbo it. I'd like to get the engine bullit proof if you get my drift. You once said it'd be better to build a 20v for a turbo application, but I would think a built early model 4agze would work just as well, and cost FAR less, especially if built properly. Also, I've been reading up on assorted turbos, and was wondering if you guys could go over differences in turbo size, compressor size, etc. What is ideal for our smaller toyota engines? Also, I've seen many CT-26 turbos floating around, and was wondering where I would look for a re-build kit to make them worth while. Thanks Jon |
Aug 13, 2003 - 7:28 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 27, '02 From Barbados Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
I would never say buillding a 20v is better.
The 20v block is strong, but not as strong as the 4agze block. The 20v is a nice project and have made it up to the 600hp mark with alot of money. What I must say is that the head is a better head than the 4agze head. Ok. enough with that. Good choice on turboing it. I must tell you that with a jun crank and piston, its a waste of time to leave everything stock. Go for a head and port job, vavle train and cams, just to name a few. Also, new throttle bodies and a custom built surge tank for high boost. Turbos are very easy to diced on. I would advice a rebore to 1.8 specs and then look for a nice 2l turbo since you will be running upto 30psi of boost and power.. Depending on your aim of hp, a nice HKS (or garret) GT2835 or GT3037S would do. Turbomagazine and Modified Mag have very well topics on turbos and how to calculate for one and use the turbo mapping graphs to decide on a specify turbo. Get them and you will be good. The CT26 is good, but forget about them and go with a Garret or HKS one. There is so much to do, create a topic one it and we can discuss it there. Just decide what you want, money to spend, and what you are willing to give up. |
Aug 23, 2003 - 7:27 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 27, '02 From Barbados Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
I will be getting a MSD Digital 7 Plus w/ HVC II.
The MDS Digital 6 I had failed and I returned it for the MSD Digital 7. I will be testing this (unfortunately on Nology wires) when it arrives next week and I will let everyone knows what different it makes on a semi stock car. Setup: 1986 Subaru EA82 2" pipe to a Magnaflow Muffler Nology Wires Racing Plugs Well tune Engine Timing @ 16 degrees Not much as you can see, but the car has a carb. so I will not be expecting much gains until I get a 4age 20V black top early next year. Stay tune This post has been edited by west_minist: Sep 7, 2003 - 7:15 AM |
Sep 7, 2003 - 7:28 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 27, '02 From Barbados Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Well, I tested the MSD Digital 7 Plus for 2 days w/ the HVC II.
I must say that the behaviour of the car was like having a small turbo transitioning into a big turbo slowly. As expected, the subaru sounded different. The Exhaust note, already low and deep, dropped even lower. I had to add a little more fuel to prevent from going lean. Driving was an experience all over a gain. Torque was there off the line and keeps on going to the 7000rpm rev limit. Just cruising and need that extra, it was always there. Now please note here. I had a low resistance solid core wire going from the big massive coil to the distributor cap. That wire after a while, started to get a little hot. I felt no increase in heat on the Nology cables. I would advice any one when there use this device to pick up some MSD wire. The MSD Digital 7 was made for drag racing, but my continuous driving on it showed no increase temperature like the msd digital 6. The HVC II coil temperature was warm, but did not continue to rise. With the advice from MSD, I can use this configuration on the street. Also, if you were playing close attention to the japs, there run this same configurations in their street cars. I firmly believe that if a fuel injected car was to use this box with all the mods stated at the beginning of this long continuous thread, you will gain tremendous hp and torque. Good luck This post has been edited by west_minist: Sep 20, 2003 - 10:06 AM -------------------- West_Minist
Hydra EMS Dealer & Tuner Subaru ECUFlash Tuner http://www.socob.bb http://xtremeracingtuning.com Viciously Tuned, Driven Hard |
Sep 8, 2003 - 12:32 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 14, '03 Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
holy s#%$ your a madman. I never meet anyone with such knowledge its incredible.
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Sep 9, 2003 - 9:43 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 27, '02 From Barbados Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
You can be like me.
Would you believe me that 2 years ago, I just barely knew about cars? This post has been edited by west_minist: Sep 27, 2003 - 4:03 PM |
Sep 27, 2003 - 4:12 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 27, '02 From Barbados Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Today, I added an additional 4ft of 2.25" piping from my last install up to the 2.5" inlet Magnaflow muffler.
The once Loud Pulsating Subaru is now tame and very quiet. The Rev are now revving throughout all the way down to 7000+rpms. I still have the low end, but tremendous top end. The once loud noise, have been calm now to a deep growl, but not as deep with the magnaflow resonator in. If it was, the deepness would be unbearable. I spent $80Us dollars to get the job done. I still have the great tremendous air pressure coming from a 4inch 1ft.25” in length (tip) from the exhaust. |
Nov 8, 2003 - 5:49 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 27, '02 From Barbados Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Hi Everyone!
It has been some time that I have not contribute to the knowledge database! The Kakimoto Exhaust systems are very good systems and offers alot of hp & torque, compare to the other brand name models like HKS, greddy and so forth. As usual, Kakimoto Racing takes part in racing, so their products are extensively tested for performance, just like HKS, Cusco and others. These exhaust are very expensive, but the gains are tremendous. Last review was done on a Subaru WRX (I think Turbo Magazine, too lazy to look thorugh all of my magazines) and the specs produce makes you wonder if the HKS Titanium could beat the Kakimoto Exhaust systems. To visit their site, please go to http://www.kakimotoracing.co.jp http://www.kakimotoracing.co.jp/01-01-01_n1.html To translate this site, use http://babelfish.altavista.com/ -------------------- West_Minist
Hydra EMS Dealer & Tuner Subaru ECUFlash Tuner http://www.socob.bb http://xtremeracingtuning.com Viciously Tuned, Driven Hard |
Nov 10, 2003 - 8:59 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Nov 10, '03 From Netherlands Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Man this info is incredible. Good work there !
I got a question tough. I got a 3SGE engine that is about 175 hp stock (thats what is listed here in the netherlands, but i believe the engine should be 170 hp). What is the best (and cheapest) way to gain a bit more power without turbo charging it ? My goal is about 200 hp, and i want a faster 0-60 time. Stock its 8 seconds, and i want about 7 seconds. Got any tips on this one ? Also, if i would have alot of money, cant i just replace all the parts of my 3SGE engine with parts of the GT4 3SGTE (3rd gen) engine ?? Is this possible or do i need major adjustments to do this ? |
Nov 10, 2003 - 8:09 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 27, '02 From Barbados Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
My whole thread has everything you want.
I will start a new thread with what you want and I will answer from there. I like to keep this thread short as possible. http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?act=ST&f=4&t=7290 This post has been edited by west_minist: Nov 10, 2003 - 8:11 PM -------------------- West_Minist
Hydra EMS Dealer & Tuner Subaru ECUFlash Tuner http://www.socob.bb http://xtremeracingtuning.com Viciously Tuned, Driven Hard |
Dec 3, 2003 - 4:05 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 23, '03 From newport news virginia Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
hmm ther is a hack that can be done with a super afc it goes like this oversixed injectors an af meter an exhaust temp probe and a lotta dyno time. over sized injectors to put out the extra fuel and the afc to cut it back under low throttle and the afc to up the fuel under high throttle the afc is adjustable in 5oo rpm increments and u can curve your fuel usage to the amount of boost being run. "the only replacement for displacement is boost".....or something like that. |
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