Removing door panels, how hard is it? Options

[saleeka]

I'd lake to put dynamat on the insides of my doors and behind the plastic that covers the speakers in the back seats, but how hard is it to remove the door panneling and rear seat pannels? Anybody done this before, like how long it takes?

This post has been edited by saleeka: Oct 12, 2003 - 7:11 PM

[Coomer]

Removing the door panels is easy. There are two screws hidden under plastic snaps near where the hinge is, four screws on the bottom, two screws by the door opening lever, a screw on the bottom of the handle by the armrest, and three snaps on the back of the door that you just have to push in and then the whole snap pulls out.

As far as rear reat panels, those are more difficult, as it requires removal of the backseat and a couple other trim panels in coupes anyway. It's all very easy to do once you look at how it all goes together.

[saleeka]

is it hard to take out the rear seat? or should i say worth all that work?

[Coomer]

[Guest_Matthew_*]

i would wait and do the doors and the trunk area before you do under the seat...but if you have already done that the rear seat isnt easy but its not hard...just take out the bolts....i'm not sure how many there are though

[saleeka]

Well, mabey you guys could give me some insight as to what would be worth "dynamating" for what i need. I figured that since I still have stock speakers that I dont plan on replacing anytime soon I would just put a layer of dynamat on the metal of the front doors and the metal area on the sides of the rear seat behind the speakers back there in hopes of getting rid of some ratling I have with certain bass frequencies. The only real noticable rattle i get is from the left rear speaker, and it isnt even that bad, just sounds like some plastic vibrating. GT2GT4 I see you advise on applying it in the trunk first (im not going to put subs in, i dont need em that bad), but for what I need is it worth the extra matting? Also do you guys advise on putting it on the back of the plastic pannels as well (or mabey instead of the metal)? If im gunna do this I'd like to do it right, and I know you guys have more experience as to what to do compared to me. thanks for all the help!

[runriot95]

First off, Coomer already told you where the door panel screws are but here's a nice photo to illustrate (thanks to aaronc222) http://www.6gc.net/photo.php?file=/images/...photos/66_1.jpg

Secondly, if you have a hatchback the rear seats are easy to take out. ( I don't know if coupes are any different ) There are just 2 bolts - one on each side of the upright part of the seat near where the top half meets the bottom half. The remaining bench part of the seat is held in with 2 clips at the front of the bench.

As for your question about what to Dynamat, I would Dynamat where you hear obvious rattles first. As to whether or not you should Dynamat the plastic panles, I would only do so if there is severe rattling. Since plastic is softer than metal, sound deadening the metal parts first will yield greater results. Again, address your known noise issues first but for overall sound deadening in you car it's best to apply to all metal parts.

[Guest_Matthew_*]

yea what he said


do all of the metal first

get a dynamat roller

i have one that i could let ya use if you would ship it back to me


get some scissors for the cutting into small pieces


wear gloves..i got cut up like a mofo when i cut the dynamat into smaller pieces from the aluminum backing.

[saleeka]

whats the roller do? do i need it?