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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 17, '07 From Montreal, QC, Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) ![]() |
Tried to tight the hand break cable inside the car, then tried to tight the springs behind the disks, still it only grips at the highest point... My father in law checked and he says it's the shoes that have to be replaced...
Is there any else to change when you put new rear brake shoes? They cost $30 on 1st Toyota parts so i though why not... i could buy new bleeders and calipers overhaul kit to make things better This post has been edited by reko: Mar 23, 2009 - 9:59 AM -------------------- |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Mar 8, '08 From Orlando, Florida Currently Offline Reputation: 14 (100%) ![]() |
On the parking brake assembly for the GT, there are also alot of pins, springs, and pin retainers that get bent out of shape over time. If you are going in there, i'd recommend you change those parts as well, cause more then likely they are worn.
![]() -------------------- ◊◊◊ My F/S Thread! ◊◊◊
QUOTE (14:19:21) Daniel: That was a JDM hole in the side of the box too. There was so much JDM trapped inside that box that they couldn't contain it, so they had to put a JDM hole in the box to let the JDM out. QUOTE Ferdi says (11:29) No, it looks like a hooker put her acid vag on your hood. Acid vag = bigger problem than a few dings. |
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Enthusiast ![]() Joined Feb 5, '09 From New Zealand Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
I just pulled mine apart to inspect them and found that '47447F' had bent out of shape, I think it needs to be the same length as '47447E'. Have you definitely wound 47405A/47406A out instead of in? Does it look like there is enough 'meat' on the pads? NExt time I replace the pads I'll definately replace '47447F/E at the same time. So maybe buy those too.
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 17, '07 From Montreal, QC, Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) ![]() |
I just pulled mine apart to inspect them and found that '47447F' had bent out of shape, I think it needs to be the same length as '47447E'. Have you definitely wound 47405A/47406A out instead of in? Does it look like there is enough 'meat' on the pads? NExt time I replace the pads I'll definately replace '47447F/E at the same time. So maybe buy those too. Yes... one makes it tighter when the other one releases the spring... And there is nothing left on the shoes lol ... you can only tell there was "meat" because of the color change Any one knows where i can get 4744F/E ? I checked on 1st Toyota Parts but they say they can't find the parts im looking for... This post has been edited by reko: Mar 24, 2009 - 8:38 AM -------------------- |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Mar 8, '08 From Orlando, Florida Currently Offline Reputation: 14 (100%) ![]() |
I just pulled mine apart to inspect them and found that '47447F' had bent out of shape, I think it needs to be the same length as '47447E'. Have you definitely wound 47405A/47406A out instead of in? Does it look like there is enough 'meat' on the pads? NExt time I replace the pads I'll definately replace '47447F/E at the same time. So maybe buy those too. 47447F Has a distinct bent shape when new. it has a tendency to straighten out over time which causes the spring to become loose. So just double check and make sure that its not just shaped the way its supposed to be. ![]() I just pulled mine apart to inspect them and found that '47447F' had bent out of shape, I think it needs to be the same length as '47447E'. Have you definitely wound 47405A/47406A out instead of in? Does it look like there is enough 'meat' on the pads? NExt time I replace the pads I'll definately replace '47447F/E at the same time. So maybe buy those too. Yes... one makes it tighter when the other one releases the spring... And there is nothing left on the shoes lol ... you can only tell there was "meat" because of the color change Any one knows where i can get 4744F/E ? I checked on 1st Toyota Parts but they say they can't find the parts im looking for... your local dealer should be able to order them... -------------------- ◊◊◊ My F/S Thread! ◊◊◊
QUOTE (14:19:21) Daniel: That was a JDM hole in the side of the box too. There was so much JDM trapped inside that box that they couldn't contain it, so they had to put a JDM hole in the box to let the JDM out. QUOTE Ferdi says (11:29) No, it looks like a hooker put her acid vag on your hood. Acid vag = bigger problem than a few dings. |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Mar 3, '05 From Richmond, B.C. Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
If you're talking about the e-brake, the shoes start out very thin. Maximum 2.0 mm, in fact, and they're good to 1.0 mm.
You mentioned the shoes are not grabbing except at the top -- have you adjusted the tension spring? This is for fifth-gen, but the equipment is practically identical; check page 44: http://discodan.org/gfx/celica/servicemanual/chassis/br.pdf This post has been edited by Galcobar: Mar 24, 2009 - 11:02 PM |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Apr 17, '07 From Montreal, QC, Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) ![]() |
If you're talking about the e-brake, the shoes start out very thin. Maximum 2.0 mm, in fact, and they're good to 1.0 mm. You mentioned the shoes are not grabbing except at the top -- have you adjusted the tension spring? This is for fifth-gen, but the equipment is practically identical; check page 44: http://discodan.org/gfx/celica/servicemanual/chassis/br.pdf Yes until i couldnt tight it anymore and still... even if my handbreak is all the way up and i cant "click" it anymore, it barly grabs... like 50% And there isnt even a mm left... -------------------- |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Mar 3, '05 From Richmond, B.C. Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
To get the shoes to grab would involve ratcheting the tension spring adjuster out, in other words, looser rather than tighter. At that point, you work the handle a few times to get it to self-adjust.
The e-brake should be set to require seven clicks to set; the shoes being less than minimum thickness wouldn't affect that adjustment to any great degree. |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jul 14, '08 From St. Louis Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) ![]() |
i just adjusted mine a couple weeks ago. once you have the wheel off, then take the rubber plug out of the rotor, and rotate the hole to 6o'clock
you may need a flashlight to see in there or just go off of feel. I pulled up my ebrake only 3 clicks instead of 7 like galco said, but I dont think it matters much. anyway, pull the ebrake then get a flat screw driver and roll the adjustment wheel up with the screw driver. that adjusts them outward. keep adjusting out until you can barely move the rotor then reassemble. -------------------- '99 Celica GT - Sold
'11 Mazdaspeed3 |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Feb 20, '08 From Abingdon, Maryland Currently Offline Reputation: 7 (100%) ![]() |
i just did my brakes and repalced the rear parkingbreak hardware kit because my pins were pretty straight, haha
the only place i could find that had it was through napa for 30 bucks, unless you wanna pay the $82 estimate that toyota gave me... ^.^ This post has been edited by Rymaster: Mar 26, 2009 - 12:42 PM |
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