Tigawoods' 1995 Celica, Racing n Stuff Options

[SwissFerdi]

Cool fabrication.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Nov 17, 2015 - 12:25 AM

[Tigawoods]

the piping wasnt as cleanly fabricated as I hoped for it to be, but it doesnt leak so I guess thats all that matters


got my CF hood today, such a shame it will be painted over
gotta get some aerocatch latches and a naca duct then set it aside with the CF hatch for paint in the spring





This post has been edited by Tigawoods: Nov 20, 2015 - 9:11 AM

[Tigawoods]

sorry for the grain. forgot a tripod






This post has been edited by Tigawoods: Nov 23, 2015 - 9:09 AM

[JDUB]

looks sick man keep it up

[Tigawoods]

Thanks JDUB!


Brought the car up to PA for its winter hibernation which possibly came at the perfect time.

On the way up, about 15 minutes away from home I was at a stop light and heard a loud ticking, lightly revved it a few times to confirm it was my car and not the car in front of me.
I cautiously crawled the rest of the way home.
Popped the hood and was presented with rather loud valve ticking.
Took the dipstick out and it reeked of fuel.

Today I am going to start at the top of the list and HOPEFULLY cross out the worst case scenario and do a comp test.
I didnt have any loss of power the whole drive up (its seemed slightly sluggish over normal but I had some extra luggage in the car)

Anyone have any other suggestions of what to look for after doing a Comp Test?

[Box]

Make sure all plugs are firing properly, then make sure the injectors aren't sticking open. Also the fuel pressure regulator could be to blame. Another slight possibility would be the PCV valve, if it's clogged the engine won't suck out and burn the fuel and oil vapours that like to collect inside the crankcase. That's all I can think of off the top of my head at the moment.

[Tigawoods]

Cold Comp Test yielded 120psi across the board. Whew.

I was looking to diagnose the PCV next yeah.

Most of the fuel smell has dissipated since yesterday but I am going to run it tomorrow and check some of the Vac lines for fuel smells and etc which will help me diagnose if its the PCV.

FPR came up on the list yeah, but I am not exactly sure how to diagnose that.

And just to note I was getting the fuel smell on the Dipstick in the crank case and in the valve cover with the oil cap off.

[Box]

You'll need a fuel pressure gauge and measure past the FPR usually between the fuel rail and where the line goes into the rail, each car is different but most mpfi engines should read around 40 psi. Hopefully it's just the PCV and then changing it and the oil and you can be on your way.

This post has been edited by Box: Nov 28, 2015 - 1:20 AM

[Tigawoods]

drove it a gain this morning to check and the ticking was still there.

came home and drained the oil.
I figured regardless of what I diagnose, first thing should be getting rid of the obvious contaminated oil in the crankcase.

Did that and at this point I have the oil filter off, drain plug and oil cap off to vent out the fumes that still remain.
Going to fill her back up and maybe grab a PCV before I crank it over again for fear of contaminating $30 of oil

Maybe I should just get a FPR with a gauge on it

[Box]

From what I've seen you'd be looking at around $100-150 for a good name brand adjustable regulator.

[Batman722]

change the PCV.

[Tigawoods]

I wasnt able to get to the Parts store to pick one up yesterday but I do have a lightly used one from the 5sfe, maybe I will give that one a try, despite its non 90degree bend


update:
Didnt work. Same thing as before, cold start no tapping but once the engine was warm(ish) the tapping continued. It seems to be coming from the No.3 Piston area in the valve cover.

I didnt let it run long enough to potentially contaminate the new oil I just put in, although there probably is some fuel that got in there

This post has been edited by Tigawoods: Nov 29, 2015 - 2:44 PM

[PegGTS]

the piping wasnt as cleanly fabricated as I hoped for it to be, but it doesnt leak so I guess thats all that matters


got my CF hood today, such a shame it will be painted over
gotta get some aerocatch latches and a naca duct then set it aside with the CF hatch for paint in the spring

Well since you'll be painting it anyways, I'll trade you my faded old CF hood

[Tigawoods]

if you lived closer I SO would. Id rather paint a ratty hood than this glossy one


when changing my fuely oil I finally connected the oil cooler.
I have a dirty block

[Rusty]

Leaky valve stem seals?

[Tigawoods]

Leaky valve stem seals?

maybe. that would explain the gas in the oil but wouldnt explain the valve tap right?

'Warm' compression test only resulted in 130,130,130,140 (1-4)
By the time I got everything apart to test cyl 1 the coolant temp was already down half from full warm.
Being cold outside its hard to keep the engine warm for long.
Another thing to note was that there wasnt too much of a smell of fuel in the oil this time.
The next time I let the car run I will check again for it, but if that is something that has been fixed then there is one less thing to worry about

The only thing I can think of next before diving in deeper is a wet compression test.

Part of me wants to run the car till something pops lol



there is a slight feeling (although I doubt it actually happened) that I had but 87 octane in the tank instead of 93. I usually only go to Exxon Gas stations but there are a couple where 93 is on the opposite side of the pump which leads to a little confusion. Also having the Honda Fit as a DD I am used to hitting 87 but I am pretty sure I put 93 in.....pretty sure. Maybe I should take a sample out and octane test it to be sure

[Box]

Could be too low of octane causing the noise, that or maybe s sticky lifter. One would think it's something remotely simple the way it showed up out of nowhere and seems to be ok otherwise.

[Tigawoods]

exactly.
I am going to run a couple off the shelf cleaners through the system next time I am back.

I am also going to borrow a borescope to check the runners of the exhaust manifold to make sure there arent any cracks. I suppose I may get another one of those complete Redtop seal kits so I can replace the exhaust gasket. Maybe I will order 2. Who knows how long these kits will still be produced.


I am getting in a Dual Oil Catch Can to be used for the Crankcase and PCV lines.
It probably wont solve the issue I am having but will definitely benefit the motor in the long run through all that high throttling.

[playr158]

*this should apply to your motor for FPR*
Remove the vacuum line that is attached to the regulator and see if there is any raw fuel in it. There should be none.
A vacuum can also be applied to the regulator and it should hold vacuum without leaking off.

on the bad end it could be your vvt-i jacked up...

good luck bud. Car is looking good as always

[Tigawoods]

*this should apply to your motor for FPR*
Remove the vacuum line that is attached to the regulator and see if there is any raw fuel in it. There should be none.
A vacuum can also be applied to the regulator and it should hold vacuum without leaking off.

on the bad end it could be your vvt-i jacked up...

good luck bud. Car is looking good as always

I did that and no fuel came out and neither was there a sniff of fuel *although it was hard to tell since the line is right above where the Removed charcoal canister hose I have plugged is and that always purges a bit of vapor after the car has been running*

Yeah the vacuum test I believe Box mentioned earlier. Still have to give that a try.

Usually the VVT-i makes a tapping sound from the solenoid if its going bad. At least thats what I have heard.

I will probably try a couple more things and then move onto what I had planned to do for the winter