hybrid turbo Options

[pikey]

hi all just thought id let everyone know the results and differences in my hybrid turbo from the standard one after the old one broke. the unit is a stage 2 hybrid ct20b unit from turbo dynamics via fensport and rated up to 360bhp. it was mapped on thursday at fensport making 1.1bar bottom and high rev range with 1.2bar in the middle wich gives a nice little kick half way through.

noticable differences are reduced, harder (more aggressive) spool up time. also very very smooth all the way through and pulls very hard. 1 bar is available from around 3200rpm and 1.1 after 3400rpm wich holds all the way through.
my view is if your turbo for whatever reason becomes faulty, rather than buying the standard one, pay a little extra for this stronger uprated one.

as a bolt on mod its great value for money at around £800gbp rather than the standard at around £650, theres minor work to be done as the actuator is different and requires a small t-piece to link up the hoses but thats it. the car will need a remap aswell. all my details are on my profile if anyone is wondering what else im running and rough power figures.

details of the turbos can be found at fensport.co.uk thanks for looking

[_Jim_]

Completely rebuilt using genuine new parts as required, New steel shaft - 48mm Compressor, 360 degree thrust, a choice of uprated actuator .

*Guide:- Our top of the range CT20B, The choice for serious power, Ideal up to 1.5 bar boost, on cars with larger fuel injectors and forged pistons. 1 bar boost is available from 3,200 rpm, for power outputs up to 360bhp).




That is copied directly from Fensports web site.


If this definition of BHP is true (copied from Wikipedia)


Brake horsepower
Brake horsepower (abbreviated bhp) is the measure of an engine's horsepower without the loss in power caused by the gearbox, generator, differential, water pump, and other auxiliary components such as alternator, power steering pump, muffled exhaust system, etc. "Brake" refers to a device which was used to load an engine and hold it at a desired RPM. During testing, the output torque and rotational speed were measured to determine the "brake horsepower". Horsepower was originally measured and calculated by use of the indicator (a James Watt invention of the late 18th century), and later by means of a De Prony brake connected to the engine's output shaft. More recently, an engine dynamometer is used instead of a De Prony brake. The output delivered to the driving wheels is less than that obtainable at the engine's crankshaft.




Then there is no real change done to this turbo to help it flow better. The added top end performance created from this aftermarket actuator, I accomplished with a 6$ Sears hardware spring. All it does is allow the actuator "door" to stay closed longer and not get blown open....which causes slower spool, non consistent pressure, and a drop in pressure when approaching redline.





For those that don't know, 1.5 bar is 22psi. I made 330whp at 21psi which would total 380BHP, Fensport lists this turbo for 825GBP + 120BGP shipping = 945BGP converted to USD = 1,410USD. For 1600USD you can buy a COMPLETE bolt on turbo kit suitable for any power level from 300BHP to 600BHP. http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=65743&hl=

Just some food for thought.

All in all, its a nice turbo for you guys across the pond IF your factory CT20B fails, but not a very viable option for us on this side of the pond.

[3WayStunna]

Nice info...think ill give this a try sometime soon myself...Also, _jim_, is running that high boost safe for your turbo and engine? Ive always read that 1.1ish-1.2 is pushing the limits of the stock turbo already..

This post has been edited by 3WayStunna: May 3, 2009 - 1:46 AM

[_Jim_]

Nice info...think ill give this a try sometime soon myself...Also, _jim_, is running that high boost safe for your turbo and engine? Ive always read that 1.1ish-1.2 is pushing the limits of the stock turbo already..

Yes, I wouldn't recommend pushing the stock CERAMIC CT20B over 1.2 bar (18psi).....But I am running a WRC motor set, so I have the Steel wheel CT20B, which can withstand A LOT more abuse then the ceramic one.

As for the Engine, these boost pressures are fine. I daily drive my GEN3 at 21psi/1.4bar on 93 pump, and will continue to do so when I receive my new turbo. Basically, as long as you are not knocking.....the motor is perfectly happy at 21 psi. I turned the boost up on the dyno and listened for knock via Detonation cans. I didn't hear ANY knock at these boost levels, nor did I see any signs on knock on my pull. I even had an issue with the boost controller and made a 25psi pull, and still walked away without a scratch. If you plan on running above 15psi, I would HIGHLY recommend using Water Injection.

[lagos]

Very cool. Glad you like the new turbo.
I always wondered if fensport still made these.

[pikey]

yeh i see your point as your far away and i wouldnt just buy one for the sake of it, im just saying that my turbo broke and rather than get a standard one i decided to pay a little extra and get a stronger one that DOES spool up faster and smoother as its on my car and i notice the difference. the turbo is completely stripped, cleaned, flowed and rebiult with uprated parts including the the new compressor wheel and 360 thrust bearing wich means theres a big change from stock.

and yes the auprated actuator wich im not complaining about as it cost me nothing on top! my boost is consistant and alot smoother than before wich also holds all the way through with no drop off at all. the car was mapped my adrian smith who i consider to be the best guy for knowledge on the 3sgte engine and right up there with the best mappers so i gess it depends who does your tuning and mapping for you.

im not suggesting everyone should go and get one, was just letting people know of the experience ive had with my car and the results so people have a bit more info and knowledge to draw from. oh and you get £150 back when you send them your old turbo wich no one else would pay for a nackered turbo.

[pikey]

1.1 is safe on a stock engine and turbo and i make 1.2 mid range with the hybrid, ive got no detonation at all. if you dont want the stock turbo but dont want to jump into the complex aftermarket turbo options its a good little option, obv you no what sort of power you want so really its totally up to you. fith an engine rebuild the turbo has handled up to 360bhp so its strong enuf and safe for arount 300 -320.

at the end of the day no tuning is 100% safe yet we all do it. theres always that small percentage that somthing could fail.