Engine sputters, then dies, After replacing camshaft seal, getting diagnostic codes 12 and 13 Options

[gidbud]

Project Summary:

Symptoms: My '95 Celica GT 5SFE manual transmission was leaking oil like a sieve. My mechanic told me it probably was due to the lower main gasket, so I had him replace that. It did not fix the problem. In the mean time, I lost my job, so no more trips to the mechanic. Too much $$.

Diagnosis: I cleaned the belt-side of the engine as best I could and finally determined that the camshaft seal was where the leak was occurring.

Treatment: I picked up a seal for $14, no problem. The labor to put it in took about 16 hours. It included removing the timing belt. I successfully replaced the seal, aligned the timing belt EXACTLY to specification. I put everything back together and much to my surprise it started on the first crank. It ran like a top, but it still had oil everywhere. So, I took it to the car wash and used the engine cleaner to clean the engine so it looks as good as it ran. No problems until about 30 minutes into my commute and the engine light came on. It ran OK for a while, then it began to sputter like it was flooding, then died and would not start.

Prognosis: Back in my driveway, I can get it to start most of the time, but the engine will race to about 3K. After a while, it will settle back to 750 RPM and immediately the engine light comes on. When I check the code, it flashes codes 12 and 13. Code 12 diagnosis directly from the Toyota service manual:

“(7) No NE signal is input to ECU for 2 secs. Or more after STA turns ON.
(2)No G signal is input to ECU for 3 secs. Or more between 600 – 4,000 RPM.”

And the 13 code diagnosis:
(1)NE signal is not input to tECU for 0.3 secs or more when engine speed is 1,500 rpm or more
(2)No G signal is input to ECU for 4 NE signal (Test mode only).”

I followed the Toyota service manual for these codes and replaced the distributor, checked the resistance on the G+ and G- terminals at the distributor, checked the timing. All are within specification according to the Toyota service manual. The next thing the service manual says is "ECM". Since this is probably the most expensive part of the project next to the distributor (it was $144), I wanted to see if there was any way to test the ECM. I'm guessing I fried it with the DIY engine wash.

Any ideas or recommendations? The part number on the ECM is 89661-2D290.

[Ryouxrs]

check all your connections first, if water gets inside of them, it can cause them to send false signals or short out. id do that b4 just replacing an ecm.