DIY: How To Change Your Driver Side CV Axle, includes, transmission fluid drain and fill and Axle Seal Options

[vile_v]

A DIY FOR REPLACING YOUR DRIVER SIDE CV AXLE on a GT
(I am not a mechanic so used this guide at your own risk!) The reason why I changed my CV axle is because the boot was ripped and it made a loud clicking noise on small turns. This was done on a 1995 GT Convertible and it took me about 3 hours to do. Good luck, and I hope this helps!

TOOLS & PARTS LIST

- jack + jack tools
- wheel block
- jack stand
- 1/2 ratchet + extension
- 3/8 ratchet + extension
- torque wrench
- 14mm, 17mm, 24mm, 30mm socket
- gloves
- gear oil (SAE 75W-90; 2.6 litres:2.7 US qts)
- cv axle (i'll get the toyota part number later because i used a aftermarket axle)
- transmission seal (90311-35019)
- Toyota manual
- hammer (rubber preferred)
- smally pry bar
- pliers
- two prong puller removal tool
- 5mm allen key
- 2 medium sizer cotter pins
- towel
- *a friend to help you

SETUP & PREPARATION


1. setup a wheel blocker (actually wheel blocker or a nice 2x4 is fine)
2. loosen wheel lug nuts with a 21mm socket


3. raise car with jack, and place a jack stand under the car for safety reasons
*if you have a convertible you should unlatch your top to avoid any extra pressure that happens from jacking up your car*
4. remove lug nuts and than the wheel

REMOVAL


5. remove transmission drain plug with a 24mm socket and drain the fluid out


6. use your lug nuts to protect your wheel studs


7. remove cotter pin with side cutters or pliers and than lock cap
8. loosen the bearing lock nut
* I had my friend step on the brakes as i was removing the nut. I was using a 30mm socket on a 1/2 ratchet, i position the ratchet up straight and just whacked it with a rubber mallet


9. remove cotter pin than remove tie rod end nut from steering knuckle
*using a two prong pulley removal tool I held onto the sides past the ball joints and spun the tool upwards to push out the tie rod end (picture 6-1)


10. remove stabilizer bar link from lower suspension arm
* I was able to remove the the lower one because mine is shot. I ended up removing the top one instead
* I did not know this but, to remove the nut you need to first loosen the nut and than put a 5mm Allen key inside the stud to help prevent it from turning and than you remove the nut (thanks to Coomer's DIY)


12. removing the lower ball joints nuts and bolt from the steering knuckle, remove the lock bearing nut and move the assembly to the right to have better access to the CV axle


13. remove CV axle
* The manual shows this is the area where your suppose to pry the CV axle to remove it. Unfortunately I wasn't able to remove it the axle with their method. I ended up prying behind the dust cover it will damage the dust cover and seal but those were going to be replaced so it didn't matter to me.
*next remove the seal

INSTALLATION


13. I dont have abs on my car so i had to remove the abs ring prior to installation (ABS RING CAN BE LEFT ON FOR INSTALLATION FOR NON ABS CELICAs)
*remember to replace the dust cover once you remove the abs ring (I used the same dust ring on the original CV because it was much stronger)


15. install new transmission seal (make sure it sits flush or just a little bit deeper, and make sure you dont twist the bead inside or else it will leak!)


16. coat gear oil to the inboard joint tulip and differential case sliding surface
17. set the snap ring opening side facing downwards when installing the CV axle
18. install lower ball joints nuts and bolt (94ft-lbs)
19. install stabilizer bar link nut (14ft-lbs)
* use can jack up your lower control arm up a bit to help make this easier to install
20. tie rod end nut (36ft-lbs), than install new cotter pin
21. install bearing lock nut (159ft-lbs), than lock and new cotter pin
* same procedure as the removal, I used my friend to hold down the brakes
22. fill up your transmission fluid through the fill plug (75w-90; 2.6 litres: 2.7 US qts) (36ft-lbs)
23. take your car for a 5 min drive with lots of slow turns, check if it still clicking or any weird noises. It everything sounds good park it, and check for transmission seal leak. If that's not leaking YOUR ARE GOOD TO GO!

CONGRATULATIONS! YOU JUST DID A CV AXLE REPLACEMENT!!! and you also did these along the way: transmission fluid drain and fill and a transmission seal lol

FUNNY SIDE NOTES:

1. I was using Royal Purple in my transmission, I tried to remove the axle hoping that not a lot of the fluid would come out. In the end a lot came out and I ended up changing the fluid. The fluid cost 50 dollars for 3 litres. I had the Purple Royal for less than a year.
2. This time I used regular 75w-90. My opinion on Royal Purple is that it is a big waste of money because I had bought it originally to help with my 3rd gear grind. It stopped for a bit and eventually came back. Its funny because this regular gear oil has almost stopped the grind (i can shift into 3rd A LOT easier now)
3. This DIY took just as long to write and post as to changing my CV axle


This post has been edited by vile_v: Feb 28, 2010 - 1:24 AM

[Neil_Y]

nice job .
but i think i need find a professional to do this..

[azian_advanced]

good stuff. another way to do it is to skip the removal of the stabilizer link and tie rod, but remove the caliper and the 2 lower strut bolts. i just find it easier that way..

[presure2]

you can remove the axle once the wheel is off with just doing step#5 then #8, and #9 and moving the whole strut assy twoard the rear of the car to get the axle out.
other than that, great write up!

[vile_v]

The reason why I did it this way is because its easier to maneuver the whole assembly with the tie rod out and its also easier to move the lower control arm once the stabilizer bar is disconnected.

This is also the way its done by the Toyota book, but yeah both way work just as well.

[crankyelbow]

wow thanks alot man, perfect timing.

I JUST ordered my driverside cv axle.

And JUST realized my passenger side is busted too... lol...

[BonzaiCelica]

nice write up. and what presure 2 said you dont really need to unconnect the tie rod, or sway bar link to get the axle out.

i have st sway bars, and you have stock. So you could probably push down the lower arm by urself. Its harder though if you have st sway bars, cause they so stiff it makes it hard to push down the arm by urself. You can also use a crow bar to hold the wheel from moving around when you take off the bearing lock nut.

[Cutrara]

nice write up, this could have saved me a lot of trouble

[njccmd2002]

when i did 5 and 6, iended up messing the lug nuts.

now i just havge somebody depresse the brakes, and is doable this way.

[Projek_01]

what makes it so hard to pry these axles, i had the same problem with not being able to pry that way. good write up, i was looking for one of these like a year ago when i did mine. has anyone found a better way to pry at it? i need to do mine today to get ready for my 1998 5SFE, woot!

[bmj67]

the only way i was able to get mine out was to pry in 2 places at once. i think when you pry in just the one spot you tweak the cv to the side just enough that it gets stuck.

This post has been edited by bmj67: May 21, 2009 - 12:08 PM

[GriffGirl]

While you're in there, it's a good idea to replace the oil seal on your tranny - ask for the Axle Shaft Seal when getting the part. I learned the hard way that this should be replaced while you've got it all apart. When I went to replace it just this past weekend because my tranny's been leaking since I did my clutch a few months ago, I drained literally less than half a bottle of tranny fluid out. Bad times.

Turns out the part is easy to find though—Toyota sold me the ENTIRELY wrong seal, of course I only realized this once everything was all apart, but NAPA had one in stock. This was also a great time to learn that Synchromesh IS DEFINITELY the way to go for transmission fluid. I bought the NAPA Premium fluid because I didn't have time to run around to another place for Synchromesh, and I'm THOROUGHLY unhappy with the notchiness of the shifter now. I will be draining it and replacing it w/Synchromesh the first chance I get. It shifted SO much more smoothly when I had it in there.

[BonzaiCelica]

i bought motul 75-90 $10 a bottle st only takes 2.7 quarts to the tranny. that stuff is expensive....

[Remy]

Royal Purple Tranny fluid $18 a bottle I bought 5 just in case almost $100 DIY tranny flush w/new axle I also broke 2 pry bars going at it. It'll come out it just might take awhile thats all lol.

Edit: New axle seals are a must if you plan on prying it out just a FYI.

This post has been edited by Remy: May 22, 2009 - 2:43 PM

[vile_v]

Royal Purple Tranny fluid $18 a bottle I bought 5 just in case almost $100 DIY tranny flush w/new axle I also broke 2 pry bars going at it. It'll come out it just might take awhile thats all lol.

Edit: New axle seals are a must if you plan on prying it out just a FYI.

You only need 3 bottles. and wow the price has gone up =S

I was using royal purple when I did my tranny drain and fill. I noticed a improvement in the shifting smoothness in the 2nd month and after that my tranny was grinding in 3rd gear every time I shifted and I could barely down gear. This time I used regular 75w-90, well I got it free from work and you know what its sooo much smoother! I think royal purple is crap.

[Projek_01]

i couldnt get mine out by prying both sides. I pried on the side shown on the service menu and got my brother to hammer a bar into the opposite side to force it out. all you need is a pry bar one one side and a pipe to hammer out the shaft on the other. soo much faster.

[airforceb2cc]

Got the new shafts in. I only took off the three ball joint nuts/bolt and pried the lower arm down. I didn't need to disconnect the tie rod or sway bar so that saved a lot of time. I used a large pry bar set between the dust shield of the drivers side shaft and the tranny and with one hit of a mallet the shaft came right out. I did have a bit of a time getting the passenger side bearing to break free from the mount though. 2 and a half hours from start to finish minus putting the splash shields back on...I broke a few rusted bolts so those will stay off until I can get some new nut plates and machine bolts. Thanks for the DIY thread...helped a lot!!

[Keiri]

Alright guys, having a bit of trouble with replacing my Driver's Side CV Axle. I spent the better part of the afternoon fighting with the stupid thing and couldn't get it of the the hub even after disconnect the vast majority of the hub and surrounds. I finally gave up and started prying at the dust cover closest to the transmission and succeed in popping that off - only problem is the tulip joint is still in the tranny.

I've tried prying it out using the breaker bar that comes with the car, a long flat-head screwdriver, and various other long flat-ended tools to pry this stupid thing out. No dice. Any suggestions or am I just SOL?

BTW, this is on an A140E auto tranny.

[azian_advanced]

it takes a bit of improvising to get the breaker bar/screw driver or whatever it is you're using.. in a position where you get good leverage. then hit the bar with a hammer with all you've got! it just takes one fast hard pull and the axle will pop out

[Keiri]

You're so right azian.

I knocked it once real good with my prybar and rubber mallet then pulled it right out by hand.

Guess it just took a little bit more patience.



Also: for those of you with auto trannys, did you have to change your tranny seal? Mine will not come out...

This post has been edited by Keiri: Apr 12, 2010 - 6:45 PM