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> Is this fair price?, I seriously doubt it!
post Sep 28, 2009 - 6:32 PM
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conus00

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Yesterday afternoon when I was leaving parking lot my car suddenly stuttered and died. I tried to start her again but no dice. She'll crank but would not start.
My assumption was immediately fuel pump, because it used to whine a little but now when I turn the key to ON position it won't even make a sound.

Long story short: I broke down about half mile down the street from Tansky Toyota in Dublin OH. I used one of my three AAA tows and had her towed to their shop. Today I got a phone call from the manger telling me that the car is throwing two codes: fuel pump and knock sensor.
I am not mechanically 100% so my question is: what are the chances of pump going out at the same time as the knock sensor?

Also, the dealer quoted me over $1200 (without the tax) to fix the car. That seems to me WAY too steep.
What are your thoughts guys?


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'94 ST
post Sep 28, 2009 - 6:40 PM
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samir0189



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I dunno about the fuel pump and knock sensor going out at the same time, ..

I know the fuel pump is pretty easy to change, certainly not 1200$ worth of fixing, a aftermarket pump is about 150 iirc.. and you just lift up the back seat, unbolt the old and bolt in the new.

Never had experience changing a knock sensor.. not sure there.

OEM fuel pump and knock sensor prices are probably the majority of that quote, oem fuel pump is probably around 400 and sensor probably something ridiculous as well, 150+, you can probably get aftermarket for much less..

This post has been edited by samir0189: Sep 28, 2009 - 6:44 PM


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My F/S Thread!

QUOTE
(14:19:21) Daniel: That was a JDM hole in the side of the box too. There was so much JDM trapped inside that box that they couldn't contain it, so they had to put a JDM hole in the box to let the JDM out.

QUOTE
Ferdi says (11:29)
No, it looks like a hooker put her acid vag on your hood. Acid vag = bigger problem than a few dings.
post Sep 28, 2009 - 6:45 PM
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Batman722



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waaaaaayyy overpriced.

the knock sensor threw a code because it wasn't getting enough fuel and it knocked, most likely it's not bad. If for some chance it is, I think I have one for cheap.

The fuel pump is easy to change out, you just need a new fuel pump. Any ST/GT pump will do, try getting one from someone parting out their car. Changing the pump is literally less than a hour to do, it's right under the back seats, in here (pic)



IMO don't have the dealership do it, just get a pump and change it yourself or have a friend help you, it's easy.


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post Sep 28, 2009 - 7:28 PM
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conus00

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That's what I thought! When I heard the estimate I almost fell out of chair!
@Batman: the way you are describing it the fuel pump can be exchanged from the interior without dropping the tank, correct? And I can do it just using regular tools, no special tools required?
Also, I should replace the pump, see if the car starts up and if it does I should not worry about the knock sensor. Did I get that right?

I wish I knew somebody in Columbus/Dublin area to help me out...

This post has been edited by conus00: Sep 28, 2009 - 7:31 PM


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post Sep 28, 2009 - 8:16 PM
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laff09

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change out the fuel pump, warm up the car, shut it off and then check for any codes using this method
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=55403
post Sep 28, 2009 - 9:55 PM
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Batman722



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QUOTE (conus00 @ Sep 28, 2009 - 8:28 PM) *
That's what I thought! When I heard the estimate I almost fell out of chair!
@Batman: the way you are describing it the fuel pump can be exchanged from the interior without dropping the tank, correct? And I can do it just using regular tools, no special tools required?
Also, I should replace the pump, see if the car starts up and if it does I should not worry about the knock sensor. Did I get that right?

I wish I knew somebody in Columbus/Dublin area to help me out...

correct, no dropping of tank, that's just crazy.
pull the bottom of the back seat up, 4 screws, unplug harness, 10 or so 8mm bolts, pull off the rubber line, use a 14mm and a 17mm wrench IIRC, pull out assembly, swap pump. Re-install.

and yes. Just clear the codes first (pull EFI fuse in bay for 30 seconds, then put it back in).


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post Sep 29, 2009 - 1:11 AM
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deathdoakill

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ok man im a mechanic myself that price is way too hi when you go to the dealer they usually get parts from aftermarket shops such as places like my work (advanced auto parts, autozone ect..) then do whats called a mark up. So a part for example that ran 80 dollars at my place, pep boys buys and then says it ran 350 in parts I saw this happen on numerous occasions at dealers an other places (im in charge of the commercial accounts) as well if its spitting out a code for a knock senser thats not the problem the problem is probrably the to do with the fuel system as the knock sensor only messures vibration in the engine. try the fuel relay first and the fuel pump fuse see if either is the cause small majority of the time this is usually the problem if not you can get a fuel pressure guage to test the fuel pressure for like $25 if you can get the codes it shot out i can definetly give you the a list of three to four probable causes on this let me know ill try to help as much as i can cwm13.gif ooohh an change the fuel filter as well

This post has been edited by deathdoakill: Sep 29, 2009 - 1:15 AM
post Sep 29, 2009 - 8:41 PM
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conus00

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Guys,
thanks for your replies. I will keep this thread updated as soon as I get back to town. I'm currently in Florida (my g/f and me are trying to move down here so we are looking for place to rent). I will be back in Ohio on the 7th so I will check everything out (starting with fuse/relay, pump) and keep you posted.
I am definitely NOT paying over $1200 to dealer!


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'94 ST
post Oct 7, 2009 - 10:03 AM
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conus00

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Ok, I'm back in Ohio and just got back from the dealer. They keep saying that knock sensor, fuel pump and filter are bad.
Here is exactly what the slip says:
"Verified concern found fuel pump and filter bad and also found knock sensor shorted internally. Provided est for repair of $1222.49 plus tax."
Just got charged $101.79 for the diagnostics and was sent out of door with candy bar.

I'm about to tow my car out of the stealership lot to my carport and looking for advice where to start first?

This post has been edited by conus00: Oct 7, 2009 - 10:04 AM


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'94 ST
post Oct 7, 2009 - 10:47 AM
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str8thugginit4ya

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You could get a universal Walbro fuel pump for around $100.00 and change it yourself bro. Then after installing that, re-check the codes to see if the knock sensor is still giving problems.

This post has been edited by str8thugginit4ya: Oct 7, 2009 - 10:48 AM
post Oct 7, 2009 - 12:03 PM
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conus00

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Got the pump out of the car. Gotta go to work in 45 mins. Will follow up on this thread tomorrow.
Just a quick couple questions:
-How do you pull the EFI fuse out? Is it somehow secured in the box? Tried to pull on it but i won't come out.
-Where is the fuel filter located and how hard is it to replace it?
-Where is exactly knock sensor located on the block?

Thanks!

This post has been edited by conus00: Oct 7, 2009 - 1:46 PM


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'94 ST
post Oct 8, 2009 - 11:12 AM
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conus00

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GOT HER FIXED!!!
The problem was the fuel pump. It took two trips to junkyard but $20 pump did the trick.
The final tally is:
$20 junkyard pump (from 95 GT)
$90 two day car rental
$100 diagnosis at the stealership
$20 (maybe) worth of gas driving to the junkyard
----------------------------------------------
$230 Total expenses

beats $1222.49 plus tax estimate.

Let's hope it will last...


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'94 ST
post Oct 8, 2009 - 6:54 PM
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Batman722



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still need the knock sensor or did you clear the code ?


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post Oct 8, 2009 - 7:16 PM
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conus00

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Haven't checked the codes yet. As soon as I finished today it started pouring rain and it's been pissing down ever since...
If the weather will get better tomorrow I will try.

This post has been edited by conus00: Oct 8, 2009 - 7:17 PM


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