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> Laff's 7a-fe rebuild
post May 22, 2009 - 2:43 PM
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laff09

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Well my celica has been occupying the same spot in the driveway for a couple months, and I think now is the time to garbage the 7a, and replace it with one I picked up out of a junkyard in Philadelphia. Soon it shall be time to strip accessories off the new motor and actually get it off the floor and on to the stand wink.gif . I plan to re-use sensors and accessories, since the originals are still pretty good. This isn't a performance build -- more of a personal challenge. I've never done this kind of thing before, but I can read a book, turn a wrench and if all else fails -- ask one of you fine people tongue.gif .

I plan to strip the 'new' motor down and replace all the seals and gaskets, timing belt, water pump, tensioner, drive belts, valve stems, fuel filter. Possibly starter($108 from toyota) and radiator..
Im still trying to decide if I should strip to the block -- or take apart the bottom end to inspect piston walls and check the rings on the pistons; the oil control rings are my primary concern.

Any input from the community? Thanks guys. I'm trying to get my hands on a camera so I can document this work...stay tuned
post May 22, 2009 - 6:16 PM
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hurley97



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Sounds like fun. Check out my rebuild thread, it may have some info you can use.
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=51960&hl=


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post May 22, 2009 - 6:45 PM
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laff09

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Oh stef, I've been around these boards for a little while; followed that build religiously smile.gif . Actually used a good chunk of the part # info from your rebuild. I'm going a similar route -- likely will keep it N/A, but who knows. Took of the valve cover, timing belt was done recently -- looks new lol, but there was definitely remnants of a snapped timing belt, half melted rubber on the inside of the timing belt cover. Motor is pretty dirty atm, that wont be for long -- however head looked pretty clean.

Oh, the 7a isn't heavy...but getting it down from the truck definitely took 4 guys after I took off the tailgate; was awkward to handle on a downward angle. Once it was down though, me and a friend could lift and move it around. (I don't have an engine lift, but I'm sure my neighbor will allow me to borrow his..)

Right now the course of action is to get the new motor rehabbed, pull out the old, put in the new, and clear inspection. After that -- who knows wink.gif


...waiting on the girl to get here to take pictures for me before i do anything else wink.gif

This post has been edited by laff09: May 22, 2009 - 6:53 PM
post May 27, 2009 - 12:09 PM
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laff09

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Got tired of waiting on forgotten goods (how someone forgets to bring a camera 3 times in a row .. beyond this dude), and I couldn't contain myself any longer -- so I've started with the teardown of the engine. Took off the clutch PP flywheel, water pump, intake manifold and disconnected any remaining sensors.. So far, so good. Enjoying myself quite a bit with this little project.
post May 27, 2009 - 1:54 PM
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stephen_lee



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motors are fun to build and stuff smile.gif make sure you replace ALL seals and bearings though.


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1994 GT: V6 swap, 5speed E53 W/ LSD, All Power, now RED
1995 ST: SOLD @273k miles, Auto, all power, CarPC, White
1994 ST: Totaled, 5spd, all power, Red RIP 07/09/09 @ 241,810
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post May 28, 2009 - 1:07 PM
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laff09

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stef any idea what grit ball hone you guys used? also what kind of abrasive material??
post Jun 12, 2009 - 7:30 PM
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laff09

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Some tips for others undertaking the same thing..


Headbolts are 10mm 12 POINT, 10mm 6 point is too small and 11mm 6 point just slips. Used a 1/2" torque wrench set to 150lbs, came out smooth and easy.
--- Headbolts must be replaced whenever they are removed --- !

Bolts to mount 7a block to engine stand = 17 MM .. having issues finding this at any local hardware store, might just have to put a jack under the trans and steal 4 of those bolts..

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