UPGRADED the lower control arm bushings, the a-arm bushings Options

[njccmd2002]

wow the rears are pretty expensive.

[playr158]

I contacted Paul through his website. He promptly replied and i ordered. Awaiting delivery from Poland....


Why would you want to add a middle man?

This post has been edited by playr158: Aug 10, 2012 - 6:34 PM

[njccmd2002]

is there a price difference? or the same>

[BonzaiCelica]

like we were discussing the other day richee3

http://www.jap-spec-performance.co.uk/stor...?products_id=92

[Batman722]

crash tubes are useless. Everyway imaginable, don't do it.

[Tigawoods]

I am concerned that there will be slight play in the rear bushing since there isnt that sleeve to hold the mount in place. The Metal sleeve pictured just rests on the mounting surfaces.
Wouldnt really the only way to fix this be with the oem sleeves (crush tubes)?


This post has been edited by Tigawoods: Nov 26, 2012 - 10:52 AM

[richee3]

Oh wow. When you said it wasn't a tight fit around the bolt, I thought you meant it was slightly bigger. I definitely didn't have that much of a gap in my bushings...

[Tigawoods]

Yeah I contacted Paul through ebay and through his website to see what he says. Hopefully he gets back to me soon (he's pretty good about that) and hopefully I wont have to remove that bushing. It will be destroyed if I take them back out

[BonzaiCelica]

There is a guy in europe who makes crush tubes that are muh thicker than those skinny oem ones

[Tigawoods]

here is what Paul from GT4-Racing said.

"Hello,
yes you need to take new sleeves from Toyota dealer if you can't remove them from your old bushes.
yes, toyota part number is 90389-21003 and it costs about 4-5gbp here in toyota dealer.
You install them inside the bush metal sleeve, not in front subframe, just need to install it in bush metal sleeve and then put the wishbone into subframe...
Hope I answered you all clear now.
If you have any other questions, I'm here for you as support.

Cheers, Paul "

This post has been edited by Tigawoods: Nov 27, 2012 - 7:40 AM

[czwalga]

Has anyone managed to smash the crush tube? I've hit a lot of big **** racing, but I have a habbit of just driving the car 'as is'. I really should probably upgrade all of my bushings.

[Tigawoods]

Has anyone managed to smash the crush tube? I've hit a lot of big **** racing, but I have a habbit of just driving the car 'as is'. I really should probably upgrade all of my bushings.

I would think that even if they were to crush, the control arm would still stay rigid in place. I mangled the hell out of mine when taking it out and the mount was still stiff in the pocket.
As long as there isnt significant movement Id say your safe...i guess

[playr158]

So you need crush tubes inside the bushings that come from Paul...good to know.
Maybe i'll grab a set of those aluminum ones thank Bonzai linked to.

This post has been edited by playr158: Nov 27, 2012 - 3:48 PM

[Tigawoods]

I ordered the OEM toyota ones. Ill post pics when I get em

[richee3]

Mine didn't need them. There was a slight gap but nothing to be worried about.

[Tigawoods]

There is truth to Dustin saying the tubes are not needed. With 150ftlbs to torque those bolts, your compressing the pocket that the arm is in, so for the most part, it shouldnt move, I just wanted the tubes as an extra security measure.




I took this from my progress thread



For the crash tubes, the "right" method for installing them would be to drop the subframe and drop the tubes in from the top. And in my quest to find a way NOT to drop the subframe I did it this way:


Since the crash tubes from toyota are fairly thin in thickness, I put them into the bushing hole (arm uninstalled). There are two different ends to the tube. One is tapered in and the other tapered out.
The tapered in end would be facing down upon installation.

Here is where my lazy crafty...ness came into play.
When the tube is centered in the bushing, about 1/4 of the tube sticks out on either end. Having it like this will NOT allow you to pop in the mount in the pocket...there just isnt the clearance for that. (hence why the proper way is to drop them in from the top) SO.
I took a mallet and hammered both of the ends of the tube inward and so they would be flush with the bushings metal center.
At that point, the arm will be able to be installed, and when aligned, I took a screw driver and pryed back out the knocked in lower end, and took a long screwdriver and hit the upper knocked in end so that it would be unfold back to straight.

does that make sense? I really should have taken pictures.

and this will more than likely NOT be able to be done with those thicker crush tubes. Those would require the subframe to be dropped.

[Batman722]

I always try to speak the truth Glad you got them settled.

The tubes are thin and they are an extra security measure.
When I first did my bushings I bought new tubes and was wicked disappointed as to how thin they are. The amount of work needed (lowering the subframe properly) to get these in didn't justify them to me.
Their purpose is if the large bolt were to break clean off then the arm wouldn't just slide out, the tube would hold them in. IMO if I'm in a situation where the big bolt breaks the arm staying in is probably the least of my worries.

[Tigawoods]

IMO if I'm in a situation where the big bolt breaks the arm staying in is probably the least of my worries.

TRUTH haha

[garin]

Yeah I contacted Paul through ebay and through his website to see what he says. Hopefully he gets back to me soon (he's pretty good about that) and hopefully I wont have to remove that bushing. It will be destroyed if I take them back out

you are talking about the race on the big bushing? if so thats where an air hammer helps out. these are great bushings... did you get them in yet?

[Tigawoods]

yeah theyve been in for a few weeks now