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> 7afe timing belt help
post Jul 10, 2009 - 8:36 PM
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Hanyo

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anyone know the 7afe timing belt alignment marks and have pictures of them?


I know your suppose to set the crank at 0 degrees TDC on pistion number 1 but where is the camshaft pully marking?


I just did the timing belt on my 7afe and now i;m getting a knocking sound around 3k rpm. Its idles smooth and starts easily. My timing is at 15 degress when its suppose to be at 10. I cant adjust it either because its OBD2 and the ecu controls that.


I'm thinking i jumped a tooth on my timing belt. Anyone have an idea whats could be wrong?

This post has been edited by Hanyo: Jul 11, 2009 - 12:11 AM
post Jul 11, 2009 - 12:09 AM
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Hanyo

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i found the cam shaft marks and everything is lined up perfectly under my eyeballing. It still knocks at 3k+ rpms.

the 7afe timing should be at 5 degrees with the e1 and te1 jumpers shorted.


right now its at 11+ degrees. this is not gonna work when it comes to smog. anyone offer ther opinion?

what happens when the cam is up or down a tooth on the timing belt.
post Jul 11, 2009 - 12:11 AM
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Mstoochn

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QUOTE (Hanyo @ Jul 11, 2009 - 1:09 AM) *
i found the cam shaft marks and everything is lined up perfectly under my eyeballing. It still knocks at 3k+ rpms.

the 7afe timing should be at 5 degrees with the e1 and te1 jumpers shorted.


right now its at 11+ degrees. this is not gonna work when it comes to smog. anyone offer ther opinion?

what happens when the cam is up or down a tooth on the timing belt.



It might not even be ur timing belt at all, if something causes a knock, OR ur knock sensor is defective, the ecu will retard your timing 10-15degrees
post Jul 11, 2009 - 12:30 AM
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Hanyo

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QUOTE (Mstoochn @ Jul 10, 2009 - 10:11 PM) *
It might not even be ur timing belt at all, if something causes a knock, OR ur knock sensor is defective, the ecu will retard your timing 10-15degrees



well i am suspecting the timing belt because it is the only thing that has changed since the car developed a knock.


And when i jump the engine to check the timing. it puts the car into limp mode that ensures no outside forces afect the timing. Even when it has been jumped its suppose to be at 5 degrees. which it is not at the moment.
post Jul 11, 2009 - 12:35 AM
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Bitter

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ignition timing is 10 btdc by the emissions sticker for my 94 7afe, its not the same for your 97?


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post Jul 11, 2009 - 12:41 AM
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Hanyo

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QUOTE (Bitter @ Jul 10, 2009 - 10:35 PM) *
ignition timing is 10 btdc by the emissions sticker for my 94 7afe, its not the same for your 97?



i'll go look now.

edit: 97+ does not list the timing. it just say no futher adjustment needed.

This post has been edited by Hanyo: Jul 11, 2009 - 1:08 AM
post Jul 11, 2009 - 1:49 AM
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Hanyo

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anyone know if over tightening the timing belt will cause the timing to advance?

I measure my timing belt tenioner spring and its out of spec. So i decided to tighten it a little more. Would that affect the timing?

i notice the old timing belt was really lose. It was in good condition but very lose.
post Jul 11, 2009 - 8:21 AM
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azian_advanced



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after installing the timing belt with the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys lined up at their respective markers, you should try rotating the crankshaft pulley another 2 turns (720 degrees) and line it back on the 0 degree mark and check back if the cam and crank pulleys still line up at the right markers. you might have to do it 2-3 times just to be sure everything is lined up correctly. it's easy to be off a tooth (or two) after installing the timing belt even if the pulleys are at their desired markers.


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post Mar 19, 2014 - 9:59 PM
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cjh4l22

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anyone have any pictures of this? or better instructions? especially with the marks on the cams.


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post Mar 20, 2014 - 12:40 AM
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Smaay

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read my guide in the stickies. building a 7A


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post Mar 24, 2014 - 10:34 PM
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VavAlephVav



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the mark is a little U mark on the head that will be visible through the hole in the cam sprocket.
but its like really hard to see cause its right up against the body.
when I did mine I first put it on with too much slack on the outer side and too tight on the tensioner side.
so when the tensioner was released that part got tight, but the other side wasn't and when you turned the motor over it took up the slack but it was off a tooth.

You can however adjust the timing with just taking the top half of the cover off. that way you can leave the crank pulley/balancer in place and look at the timing mark on it.
Turn the motor with the crank bolt until the cam mark is lined up, then loosen the tensioner and take the belt off the Cam pulley.
now pull up on the exposed ends of the timing belt and use that to line up the mark on the Crank pulley with the mark on the outside of the lower cover.

what I actually did was take the crank pulley back too far just about a tooth, then I slipped the belt on so it was nice and tight on the outer side, and then used the crank bolt to turn it forward just that one notch
so the timing mark on the crank was dead-on. then you can let the tensioner go and it will be perfect. After you tighten the tensioner use the Crank bolt to turn it over by hand TWICE, and be sure to check the marks again
before you decide it's good and put it back together. also before I took it apart I marked the cam pulley and the side of the head with my nieces hot pink nail polish so that I would have another really visible mark to double check by.


this thread is for the 5sfe but it has some good pics of the timing marks and yours will be similar.
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=57712



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