Installing the T1808 system, Have a premium sound car, need more info Options

[razor7]

Alright,
So I already know that I'll need to kill both amps and run everything off of just the deck itself (though I plan on wiring in a breakout box to send power to an amp that will power 8" polks). Will the stock wiring hook up to the 1808, or will I need to create a pinout connector and work on the wiring some (I can work my around with a soldering iron, shouldn't be too difficult)?

I'm also wondering if anyone has a pinout for the stock mid range amp (the one under the seat). I want to put in another semi-low powered amp in the same spot, and if possible, use the same wiring for the doors.

I have also been reading around and in order to get out the stock amp (next to the climate control) I'll need to tear apart most of my dash and center panels. Is there any special operation/order needed to go about doing this (I skimmed through the other thread, I'll re-check it once I get the radio).

Thanks,
-TC

[pittfirefighter]

ok i think you're trying to do what i did with one of my celicas... i have an eclipse AVN headunit that runs my tweets and 4" drivers in the door as well as the 6.5's in the back, i then have a jbl amp running 8" memphis in the doors and a 12" in the hatch?? is this kinda the setup you're trying to run?

if it is, i will go into detail on how to do it, also the amp under the seat ONLY powers the 8" drivers in the doors

This post has been edited by pittfirefighter: May 28, 2009 - 8:15 PM

[azian_advanced]

Alright,I'm also wondering if anyone has a pinout for the stock mid range amp (the one under the seat).

8-Speaker System Wiring Diagram

[trdproven]

its easy, just pull off the needed harnesses off of the stock amp located under your player and then run a seperate amp for your 8" speakers, don't make it any harder on yourself. This is how mine was done - never tore apart anything.

[razor7]

its easy, just pull off the needed harnesses off of the stock amp located under your player and then run a seperate amp for your 8" speakers, don't make it any harder on yourself. This is how mine was done - never tore apart anything.

I could do that, but I'm trying to keep it as stock looking and feeling as possible. Since I planned to mount the amp under the driver's seat anyways, I figure it will just be easier to splice the existing wires.

ok i think you're trying to do what i did with one of my celicas... i have an eclipse AVN headunit that runs my tweets and 4" drivers in the door as well as the 6.5's in the back, i then have a jbl amp running 8" memphis in the doors and a 12" in the hatch?? is this kinda the setup you're trying to run?

if it is, i will go into detail on how to do it, also the amp under the seat ONLY powers the 8" drivers in the doors

Yes and no. Since the Scion T1808 deck is made for Toyota's (Scion), I wanted to know what cabling I will be running into. From what I gather, the wiring is as follows: Battery -> Deck -> Main Amp (in console) -> Splits off to speakers/Sub amp -> Goes to 8" speakers.

So from there I just wanted to know if the wiring heads are the same from our factory radio's and the new Scions, or if I will have to re-pin/buy stock connectors.

8-Speaker System Wiring Diagram

That's perfect! Thanks a bunch.

I guess what I'm asking for is if anyone has done this same set-up, and what they ran into/needed. I already know that it'll take me a good 2 days to finish this, I just wanted to get some pointers or more knowledge before I plunge in.

-TC

This post has been edited by razor7: May 29, 2009 - 3:58 AM

[trdproven]

No my setup looks stock, I placed the aftermarket amp exactly where the original one was.

[razor7]

Alright,
So bear with me, this is basically my *ideal* plan (I understand that this may not be possible, but would like to attempt anyways).

So wiring would be like so.

T1808 deck -> female T1808 deck connector -> spliced into original male deck connector -> coupled to original female deck connector -> sent to what would be the male main amp cable -> coupled to female main amp cable -> spliced into 2 -> #1 spliced into male speaker connector (would be main amp out for 1", 4", 6") -> coupled to 1", 4", 6" female speaker connector -> sent to speakers

#2 spliced into male sub woofer amp connector -> coupled to female sub woofer amp connector -> stripped wires (remote, positive and negatives for left and right) -> new sub amp -> 8" subs

I would also need a male connection for the power being sent to amp, or is that included in the loom from the original amp? I know the sub amp has two wire looms that connect to it.

So, I guess what I need to know is if I can get female and or male versions of each connector along the series of cables from the deck to the speakers. Obviously this isn't the easiest way to do this (running new wires or cutting and splicing would be easier) but I would like everything to be able to be reverted to stock if needed.

Unfortunately the wiring diagram from earlier doesn't give me part numbers for the connectors, so I'm not sure if opposite versions exist.

-TC

[razor7]

Alright,
So I contacted Scion and Pioneer, neither of them will release a wiring diagram/pinout to me. Does anyone know where I can find one?

-TC

[Culpable04]

Alright,
So I contacted Scion and Pioneer, neither of them will release a wiring diagram/pinout to me. Does anyone know where I can find one?

-TC

just an assumption, since they plug and play all 86+ toyota vehicules with non premium sound system, wouldn't their pin-out have to match with any other toyota radio and be a reciprocate of the 1986 + toyota stock radio harness ?

[razor7]

Alright,
So I contacted Scion and Pioneer, neither of them will release a wiring diagram/pinout to me. Does anyone know where I can find one?

-TC

just an assumption, since they plug and play all 86+ toyota vehicules with non premium sound system, wouldn't their pin-out have to match with any other toyota radio and be a reciprocate of the 1986 + toyota stock radio harness ?

You're right,
For our premium systems, the plug coming from the amp is actually the same as the scions and lexus systems. You can hook up the new system just like that, but your mid bass speakers won't be powered. So I've actually reconsidered what I'm going to do after talking to a buddy of mine.

- Install the T1808
- Create a pinout that will lead to a crossover amp (bluetooth controlled, 15 eq presets, totally controllable)
- Send the leads to a main amp which will power the rears, 4"s, and tweeters
- Also send the mid sub leads to a sub amp
- sub amp to mid bass crossovers

I still plan to do this with all stock wiring, just with creating individual wiring harnesses and pulling power that way. It'll take longer, but everything will be instantly removable if I decide to go with a different audio route later on. Turns out that my buddy has a ton of the various male and female connectors I'll need, so it'll be down to just figuring out the pinout and a lot of soldering and shrink wrapping.

-TC

[xlee]

what ever you do, don't butcher up the wiring harnesses. When i bought my Celi, it was all butchered up. I had to go to the junk and find a harness and redo the stock harness... which totally sux.

[razor7]

what ever you do, don't butcher up the wiring harnesses. When i bought my Celi, it was all butchered up. I had to go to the junk and find a harness and redo the stock harness... which totally sux.

Don't worry, the stock harness will stay nice and intact. That's one of the reasons why I'm going through such lengths to create pinouts so that the stock harness won't have to be butchered.

I talked it over with a buddy, he'll help me install it, put in a pre-out equalizer that's all bluetooth controllable, component speakers (not subs, but mid-basses), and another amp to power everything. Should be able to get it to it within the next couple months.

-TC

[razor7]

Alrighty,
I figured it was time for an update. So after sitting on that deck for close to 4 months, I finally got around to getting it in today. There were a few complications that I would like to point out to whomever considers doing the same thing to their car.

1. The right bracket that secures the right side of the deck will not mount without re-drilling holes. I got around this by attaching the bracket and really tightening down the left side, it's on there pretty tight, but if I had re-drilled the holes (which I may end up doing) it would sit much more securely.

2. The Radio trim/bezel will not fit without a lot of modifications, I HIGHLY recommend that you find a spare in case you butcher one.

3. When the normal harness is plugged in (it's on the main amp) you will not get any power to your 8" door speakers. In the interest of time, I spliced them into the 4" speakers. I know I said that I didn't want to cut my harness, but without creating a nasty mess of running wires, it would have been impossible to get the 8" speakers to work. Without them you also come across with little to no bass response at all. No worries on the tweeters though, they already draw power from the 4" as well.

4. The main amp is a pain in the arse to get out. There is no easy way to get it out without pulling part of the center console paneling and the glove box out.

5. When all is said and done, you'll have a spare wire loom running to the bottom side of your seat (where the sub amp is, also something you can pull out) along with spare wires running to the 8" speakers in the door panels. To remove these cables would be a pain, and it would probably make more sense to leave them if you ever decide to Amp them (not with the original amp).

6. You will lose a little bit of control over the speaker's independence. The factory amps did a good job of splitting up the signals to each speaker, it was easy to get bass out of the 8" without making the 4" bottom out. Now you'll have to find a compromise. Remember that a 5 channel EQ is still better then no EQ.

Now for the good news, I ended up removing an excess 5-6lbs. It's not much, but every little bit helps. The new deck's amp sounds SUPERB when it comes to low end frequencies. It's possible that my '94 amps were just dying/dead, but there is a noticeable difference, especially when pushing more power to the speakers (less cracking, speakers won't bottom out, able to hit much lower frequencies). The new deck also seems to fit the scheme pretty well, it's casing matches the clock bezel pretty nicely.

There are also some odd tuning features that you can do to the deck itself. For instance, they give you "SSP" which allows you to switch between neutral, hear, and feel. Hear is supposed to sound more like a live performance, while feel is what the band is supposed to hear while playing. Basically, Hear will up the mid range and give it a more split feel (think strait stereo). Feel will raise up the bass while rounding out the top and mid range. The deck will also allow you to switch between car models; TC, XB, and XD. I found the XD with Feel sounds the cleanest and fullest in my car, but each one will vary (especially dependent upon speakers).

So that pretty much wraps it up. I still plan on throwing in better 8"s (right now they're just 6.5") and custom making 6"x9" rear mounts and amping both the 8s and 6x9s, however this is probably a ways off right now (next weekend maybe? :-P). I find that if you feel like your upgraded speakers aren't reaching their potential with the current set-up, then this is a GREAT upgrade to make, especially if you're going for that factory look. This deck is oodles better than stock, but won't be flashy like most aftermarket ones, while still giving you full iPod control.

Once I get the display bezel cut to shape, I'll take another picture showing the difference between stock and modified.

Video Link to You Tube

At the end of the movie, I'll switch from "hear" to "feel". Make sure to pay attention to the volume levels.



-TC

This post has been edited by razor7: Sep 7, 2009 - 9:36 PM

[razor7]

Hey Guys,
Thought I'd give one last update, in case anyone was wondering on how to do the bezel. I used a dremel with cutting discs and medium sanding discs (250 grit). The whole process took about 2 hours, which included about 12 test fitments, a lot of cleaning up, filling a part that I removed too much with bondo, and repainting the entire trim.

As you can see, it doesn't look as perfect as stock, but that's also because I'm cutting away at a mould. There's no way you can get it to look as perfect as stock without some seriously fine tools and probably about 24 hours of sanding/polishing. However, this is the best I could do with the amount of time I had, and the tools on hand.

[img=http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/th.383338abdd.jpg]

The one on the left is the new one, while the one on the right is the stock bezel.

[img=http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/th.8109a7cce8.jpg]

[img=http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/th.f870875513.jpg]

[img]http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/th.30ee2e7c80.jpg]

[img=http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/th.7b21cd3817.jpg]

[img=http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/th.c6d0ccf4b2.jpg]

[img=http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/th.0d41c0f9c4.jpg]

So like I said, it's not perfect. If you look at the trimmed bezel, you'll notice that the top left and bottom right corners had to be cut in. The new deck doesn't sit the same way as the stock one did, it's actually tilted that way.

If you're attempting to do the same mod to your car, look very closely at what mounting points for the bezel I had to remove. If you notice, a large majority of the structural hardeners had to be removed, along with one of the main points. The other pain contact point had to be cut in half, and now the clip that would normally go on it won't fit, I cut it in half instead of removing it in order to keep some structural integrity on that side. You'll also notice how close the bottom left corner is. Had I cut any more away, it probably would have snapped while handling it, in fact I made sure that that side is very precise, it's actually wedged in between the radio and the trim and helps support the deck.

I should also mention that you cannot fit the right side mount on the deck itself, only the left. Again, that's one of the reasons why I kept the right mount on the bezel there, the bezel is actually holding up the right side of the unit currently.

So to finish it all off, I'd say that this mod is really justified for the person who wants an upgraded sound system, without brining on the flashiness that most decks come with. I can safely park this car in San Francisco without having to worry about someone trying to steal it.

-TC