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> battery light came on, ???
post Oct 24, 2003 - 7:49 PM
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Cormudgen



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Ok,

earlier today i was workin in my car with my amp. stuipd me, was messing with the connection of the REM wire (remote to turn the amp on) at the amp end with the car on. the other side is into the drivers side fuse box labled "ignition". anyways i try canking my car and it wont, so i look and of course the fuse is burnt. replace it and everything is fine. not to long after this my battery light comes on(right next to where the brake light is when you ebrake is on). i dont konw if its related or not. does this mean that my alternator may not be putting out enough amperage? is my battery dying? what does this dummy light signify?

thanks for any and all help
cormudgen
post Oct 24, 2003 - 7:53 PM
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Andason



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sorry to hear that man, i had mad problems with my electrical system on my old car and i had to pull the system out, now i refuse to do my own wiring even though i'm capable of doing it myself. (warranty = lawsuits) smile.gif


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post Oct 25, 2003 - 1:54 PM
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Cormudgen



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bump
post Oct 25, 2003 - 2:23 PM
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macavely



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did you check ever fuse down the line? and do you have a multi meter got check if your altnator is working right? and does it come one when the amp is off?


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post Oct 25, 2003 - 8:10 PM
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ok well your amp is staying on all the time because the circuit is never closing

sounds like you need a switch

once you get the switch

run your power wire from the + on the battery to the 12 volt input on the amp

then get another wire like 12 guage and cut into your battery wire and loop that smaller wire around it and tape it real good.

then run the small wire back to your switch on one end of it. then run a third and final wire back to the remote input on your amp

oh also just remembered I have a switch panel that I want to get rid of.

it fits in your dash just like a cd player too.

thats what i used it for till i got a cd player that has a remote output on it. whenever the cd player turns on so does the amp and when it shuts off so does the amp
post Oct 26, 2003 - 1:01 PM
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Cormudgen



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the way my amp is set to tun on is not th e problem. i had it like that fo the past 2 months and has worked fine. as a matter of fact many people have it set up like that. now blowing the fuse-i'm not sure if that has anythying to do with the light on or not. but i'm assuming since it happend aound the same time it does.

cormudgen
post Oct 26, 2003 - 2:50 PM
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sorry what I meant is that your ignition is still getting power so thats making the battery lose juice and also having that light come on


turn your key only one notch and all the lights should light up.

its similiar to that but only doing the battery


oh and be careful not to leave the key like that for to long it will discharge the battery


also for the ignition fuse powering it i dont know if thats a good idea. i tried that once and it blew while i was on the highway and i lost everything. it sucked.
post Oct 27, 2003 - 2:04 AM
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Defgeph



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get your alt check out its probably not putting out enough juice to charge the battery or its putting out to much get to ur local garage and get ut altenator
checked out ...........Thats the problem get a new altenator and if ur running alot of wattage through ur amps buy a cap from and audio shop it will help relieve stress from ur battery and ur alt oh and get the battery checked cause that also could kick the bucket( you can check it with the same tool as the altenator ) just have the car off when you check the battery
peace out

defgeph

edit: I run 1,200 watts on stock battery and alt. with no cap so I know the alt and battery can take what your running cause you only have one sub..........nice job by the way

This post has been edited by defgeph: Oct 27, 2003 - 2:08 AM


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post Oct 27, 2003 - 10:24 AM
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AudioFreak

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QUOTE (Matthew @ Oct 25, 2003 - 9:10 PM)
ok well your amp is staying on all the time because the circuit is never closing

sounds like you need a switch

once you get the switch

run your power wire from the + on the battery to the 12 volt input on the amp

then get another wire like 12 guage and cut into your battery wire and loop that smaller wire around it and tape it real good.

then run the small wire back to your switch on one end of it.  then run a third and final wire back to the remote input on your amp

oh also just remembered I have a switch panel that I want to get rid of.

it fits in your dash just like a cd player too.

thats what i used it for till i got a cd player that has a remote output on it.  whenever the cd player turns on so does the amp and when it shuts off so does the amp

There is an easier and safer way.

Tap off the amps power line at the amp. And not by cutting into the power cable. If it has a crimped end cut it off and install a new one with both wires inside. If there is no end just insert both wires into the amp and tighten the screw. Connect a relay so power will flow from the tap wire to the amps remote only when the relay gets a ground. Finally connect a switch that when on provides ground to the relay. Make sure you use a fuse 1 amp should be enough for the remote.

Back to the original problem.

Have the alternator checked.. odds are you blew the voltage regulator or the diode pack inside. You might be able to replace both with out changing the alternator but it will probably be eaiser to change the whole thing.

" buy a cap from and audio shop it will help relieve stress from ur battery and ur alt " WRONG... caps don't relieve the stress on your charging system. In some cases they can acutally make it worse. All a capacitor does is hide the problem.
post Oct 30, 2003 - 12:18 PM
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Cormudgen



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ok, so yesterday i go to autozone and get them to test my battery and alternator. he says my alt is perfectly fine and that a full charge on my battery should solver the problem i get him to charge my battery and hten put it back in but the light is still on. he test again and the alt is still good but the battery is kind of weak. right after a full charge. my battery right now only have 400 cold cranking amps. he recomended i should get one with more thatn that. do you feel its needed? also i need to find a better way to run my amp if that really is drawing from the battery the whole time although i dont think it is. can i just put a toggle switch on that line and turn it off everytime i leave the car?

cormudgen
post Oct 30, 2003 - 12:27 PM
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aaronc222



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QUOTE (defgeph @ Oct 27, 2003 - 12:04 AM)
I run 1,200 watts on stock battery and alt. with no cap so I know the alt and battery can take what your running cause you only have one sub..........nice job by the way

So why do my headlights dim(on bass hits) when I'm only running 200w? And don't say it's the connections because I've gone through and upgraded every ground/positive terminal. And the battery and alternator are fairly new(Spring).
post Nov 3, 2003 - 8:28 AM
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van95st



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i'm a firm believer in capacitors, i'm running around 2,000 watts off of stock alternator and yeah the lights dim a little but only at idle. all a capacitor is is storage for juice, it suppliments if the voltage of the system drops. The higher the capacitance the more storage capability ie. 1 farad, 2 farads etc.... as far as your battery light problem if your alternator is fine just get a new battery, just got a new yellow top ultima love it but it's a bit pricey. if you don't want to spend that much just get a good deep cycle battery. and as with everything you get what you pay for.

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