Car jerks if not shifted at right rpm???, What could cause this? Options

[str8thugginit4ya]

Hey guys, I know you're probably thinking from the title that I'm probably not shifting and driving the car right. But, I like to think that I'm an okay driver and I know a thing or two about how to drive a manual. My main problem that I have is that whenever I'm shifting from 1st to 2nd, or any gear for that matter, and I don't rev match it perfectly it jerks a LOT. Now I compared the jerking to my brothers Infiniti G20, and whenever I don't rev match perfectly when shifting, the clutch just catches the gear back and goes on driving. No jerking or anything. Could it be my bushings that are bad in my suspension? Or maybe my clutch needs changing?I know for a fact that I don't ride the clutch, but what could be going wrong. I'm not saying that I'M not doing anything wrong here, but I just wanted to know if this is a sign of something going bad??? Any help would be appreciated.


-Thanks, Ryan

[enderswift]

check your clutch master and slave cylinder. If either one of those is shot your car may act like your dropping the clutch even though you are applying smooth pedal effort. You'll be surprised at all the funny things a messed up master or slave can cause (i should know) -_-

[str8thugginit4ya]

check your clutch master and slave cylinder. If either one of those is shot your car may act like your dropping the clutch even though you are applying smooth pedal effort. You'll be surprised at all the funny things a messed up master or slave can cause (i should know) -_-

Thank for the help bro! I'm a novice when it comes to the clutch master and slave cylinder. Where exactly would that be located and how would I know if it's gone bad or not???

[pittfirefighter]

its really a two person job.... theres a good chance its in the synchros too... but the slave cylinder is located on the transmission itself... the master cylinder is against the firewall... master cylinder has the fill spout on it and the clutch pedal is directly attached to it... its right next to the brake fill spout and diagnosis box, right below the windshield line... you really just need to check this for leaks... if you do have a leak you're going to notice your clutch fluid going down... obviously make sure the fluid is filled as well... the slave cylinder check is a two person job... if you follow the line from the master cylinder... it runs right to the slave on the front of the transmission... its a plunger inside of a sleeve... to check it... push the clutch pedal in and hold it... at this same time have someone watch the slave cylinder... it will retract if its bad while the pedal is pushed in... wait about 15-20 sec to be sure....

important... are you getting any "grinding?" or just like rough shifts?

[str8thugginit4ya]

its really a two person job.... theres a good chance its in the synchros too... but the slave cylinder is located on the transmission itself... the master cylinder is against the firewall... master cylinder has the fill spout on it and the clutch pedal is directly attached to it... its right next to the brake fill spout and diagnosis box, right below the windshield line... you really just need to check this for leaks... if you do have a leak you're going to notice your clutch fluid going down... obviously make sure the fluid is filled as well... the slave cylinder check is a two person job... if you follow the line from the master cylinder... it runs right to the slave on the front of the transmission... its a plunger inside of a sleeve... to check it... push the clutch pedal in and hold it... at this same time have someone watch the slave cylinder... it will retract if its bad while the pedal is pushed in... wait about 15-20 sec to be sure....

important... are you getting any "grinding?" or just like rough shifts?

My 3rd gear alone grinds, but that is because the synchros are shot in the third gear alone! All the other gears have no grinding. But nothing with rough shifts. The only other problem, other than the third gear, is that if I don't rev match the shifts then I would get a jerking. It's not a MAJOR jerking like it's going to stall out, but it kind of annoys me because in ANY other car I don't get that. It shakes the whole car back and forth a couple of times.

[VieT9sD]

I believe anyone who owns a celica gt could relate to this. our transmission is just like this, it gives our car a sporty feel. if you ever have the chance, test drive a 350z (sport car) and a g35 (luxury car). though they both share the same engine, the transmission is completely different and you can feel it while you're driving. you'll find the 350z transmission will feel like our celica ( in a way), while the g35 will feel really smooth even if you don't "rev match perfectly."

[str8thugginit4ya]

I believe anyone who owns a celica gt could relate to this. our transmission is just like this, it gives our car a sporty feel. if you ever have the chance, test drive a 350z (sport car) and a g35 (luxury car). though they both share the same engine, the transmission is completely different and you can feel it while you're driving. you'll find the 350z transmission will feel like our celica ( in a way), while the g35 will feel really smooth even if you don't "rev match perfectly."

I was thinking something like that. My brother suggested to me that I should try changing all the bushings with the polyurethane ones and see if that helps with the jerking. Because he said that since his car is more of a luxury car the suspension is made for a smooth ride, where my Celica is a more sport tuned. He said if I were to change the bushings, then I would feel less of a jerk. Hey, if anyone has a better idea, I'd love to hear it. But it kind of annoys me whenever I have anyone in my car, and they're like why does your car jerk like that? I also do have Tein springs installed on the car.

[pittfirefighter]

i can't believe that at all... i have an e153 tranny w/ LSD and poly mounts and i get no jerking at all on shifts... even if i don't rev match and thats a much sportier tranny than the s54... the springs may be shot on your clutch disk... the springs relieve the pressure on the plate and disc when the disc engages... if this is the case... either replace the clutch altogether or deal with it until you need a new clutch

[str8thugginit4ya]

i can't believe that at all... i have an e153 tranny w/ LSD and poly mounts and i get no jerking at all on shifts... even if i don't rev match and thats a much sportier tranny than the s54... the springs may be shot on your clutch disk... the springs relieve the pressure on the plate and disc when the disc engages... if this is the case... either replace the clutch altogether or deal with it until you need a new clutch

Well I haven't gotten around to checking the Clutch Master & slave cylinder. So if all those are fine, then I guess well move on to that. Kind of in a tight spot for cash right now, so I guess I'll have to wait to replace te clutch. Are these all the problems that could be causing the jerking? Because I want to make sure I don't have to replace anything I don't need to.

[dubb_head]

i can't believe that at all... i have an e153 tranny w/ LSD and poly mounts and i get no jerking at all on shifts... even if i don't rev match and thats a much sportier tranny than the s54... the springs may be shot on your clutch disk... the springs relieve the pressure on the plate and disc when the disc engages... if this is the case... either replace the clutch altogether or deal with it until you need a new clutch

Well I haven't gotten around to checking the Clutch Master & slave cylinder. So if all those are fine, then I guess well move on to that. Kind of in a tight spot for cash right now, so I guess I'll have to wait to replace te clutch. Are these all the problems that could be causing the jerking? Because I want to make sure I don't have to replace anything I don't need to.

Hey, I had/have similar problem to yours. I even made a post about it. http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=70281&hl=

What I did today was a tune up. New NGK wires/plugs and a new rotor + cap. All of those items were original on my car since 1994 and about 110,000 miles or so!

Anyways, I did have some jerking aroun 1800 - 2200 rpm. Now the car drives much smoother and I would say 80% of the jerkiness is gone. I would also say that now I "have to try harder" to make the car jerk.

Hope this helps. Ohh, the car is a 94 GT 2.2L

This post has been edited by dubb_head: Nov 5, 2009 - 11:02 PM

[Batman722]

you have a bad rear mount and the front one is probably going too. Put new ones in or get some inserts and things will improve.

[str8thugginit4ya]

you have a bad rear mount and the front one is probably going too. Put new ones in or get some inserts and things will improve.

Are you talking about the Engine mounts??? Which one's specifically?

i can't believe that at all... i have an e153 tranny w/ LSD and poly mounts and i get no jerking at all on shifts... even if i don't rev match and thats a much sportier tranny than the s54... the springs may be shot on your clutch disk... the springs relieve the pressure on the plate and disc when the disc engages... if this is the case... either replace the clutch altogether or deal with it until you need a new clutch

Well I haven't gotten around to checking the Clutch Master & slave cylinder. So if all those are fine, then I guess well move on to that. Kind of in a tight spot for cash right now, so I guess I'll have to wait to replace te clutch. Are these all the problems that could be causing the jerking? Because I want to make sure I don't have to replace anything I don't need to.

Hey, I had/have similar problem to yours. I even made a post about it. http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=70281&hl=

What I did today was a tune up. New NGK wires/plugs and a new rotor + cap. All of those items were original on my car since 1994 and about 110,000 miles or so!

Anyways, I did have some jerking aroun 1800 - 2200 rpm. Now the car drives much smoother and I would say 80% of the jerkiness is gone. I would also say that now I "have to try harder" to make the car jerk.

Hope this helps. Ohh, the car is a 94 GT 2.2L

Thanks for the info, I will try and check these out.

[Batman722]

you have a bad rear mount and the front one is probably going too. Put new ones in or get some inserts and things will improve.

Are you talking about the Engine mounts??? Which one's specifically?

yes.

[95st-celica]

x2 on what batman said...im willing to bet your motor mounts are shot...how many miles are on the car?

Pop your hood, reach in and hit the throttle from from where your cable connects to the Throttle body. give it some gas and you should see the whole engine flex....try shaking it with your hands and check out your motor mounts, but i bet he's right.

I would invest in some new motor mounts all around just to be safe, and also, for 50 bucks shipped, you can get a full set of polly-uruthane motor mount inserts made by kirkasouras...i have these in with my swap and they are great.

heres the link

good luck and i hope you figure out what it is

http://home.comcast.net/~kirkosaurus2/MR2_...ne_inserts.html

[str8thugginit4ya]

x2 on what batman said...im willing to bet your motor mounts are shot...how many miles are on the car?

Pop your hood, reach in and hit the throttle from from where your cable connects to the Throttle body. give it some gas and you should see the whole engine flex....try shaking it with your hands and check out your motor mounts, but i bet he's right.

I would invest in some new motor mounts all around just to be safe, and also, for 50 bucks shipped, you can get a full set of polly-uruthane motor mount inserts made by kirkasouras...i have these in with my swap and they are great.

heres the link

good luck and i hope you figure out what it is

http://home.comcast.net/~kirkosaurus2/MR2_...ne_inserts.html

Thanks a lot to EVERYBODY! Once again, this community has helped me tremendously! I will look into those motor mounts. One thing though, I've never installed any motor mounts, is it hard. I have an engine jack, well it's mainly my brothers but would I need it to replace the engine mounts? Seeing that the whole engine rests on these mounts I think that an engine jack would be VERY helpful. Oh, and to answer '95st-celica' question, I have just below 120,000 miles on my Celi.

[samir0189]

you need like one jack, one to lift the car to a sufficient height, some jack stands. the front mount is easy but do it last, the rear mount is ............ fun. the front and rear mounts are connected by a crossmember. For the rear mount, you'll need to jack the engine up and down (i jacked on the oil pan..) to get the mount in place and bolted in, it takes a while. hard to explain, but when you are doing it you'll see the problems. It is not impossible, just challenging.

This post has been edited by samir0189: Nov 6, 2009 - 8:47 AM

[trdproven]

i have brand new mounts but with the competition flywheel and clutch it is almost inevitable, it will still jerk unless I shift early but then again, i think the GTs are just like that.