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> Knocking noise, From the rear suspension.
post Jan 26, 2010 - 2:22 AM
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skogs

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Hi. I recently had some work done on my celica's rear suspension, the workshop replaced two rods, don't know what they are called in english, stabilisator rods or something? A rod with a ball on each end.
Anyway, a few km's after i got the car back, it started to make some really loud knocking noise when hitting even the smallest bumps in the road. I can really feel the knocking too. It seems that the knocking comes individually from both rear wheels\shocks.

I had the car back on the workshop and asked them what was wrong, and they blamed the exhaust-silencer's heat-shield, which is a little loose. Fastening that didn't help of course.

Does anyone have any ideas what could be causing these noises? I love my celica, and feel really bad everytime it knocks kindasad.gif

would greatly appreciate some help!
post Jan 28, 2010 - 4:49 PM
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Galcobar

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The rods they replaced, do they run from the axle holder/wheel along the length of the car, connecting under the door? These are the strut rods.

Or do they run from the wheel to the middle of the car, under the trunk/boot? These are the suspension arms. The front of each pair is the No. 1 arm, the rear of each pair is the No. 2 suspension arm.

Improper installation of any of these can produce clunking. Get the car up on a lift, and move the suspension up and down. Feel for vibration in each arm, it's usually easy to tell which arm is popping -- the problem is generally the bushing at one end or the other.

post Jan 28, 2010 - 10:14 PM
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azian_advanced



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you should take it back to them and have them sort it out..

btw when checking the bushings on the suspension arms, the car needs to be on the ground and not raised. raising the car adds tension to the arms and you won't be able to tell if the bushings are worn just by shaking the arm.

for starters, check if they put on the sway bar bushings.


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post Jan 30, 2010 - 6:07 PM
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Galcobar

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Presuming the lift used is one which lifts the body rather than being a drive-on lift, it's still possible to test the bushings and bearings. Shaking the arm isn't terribly effective, but using a prybar at the connection works great. If it pops, there's your indicator.

However, I found I preferred getting it up on a drive-on lift, where I could get under the car and bounce it up and down to track the vibration.

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