Speakers Whining...., Alternator whine / turbo.... Options

[Cs91]

Okey, here's my problem.
I got a pretty big audio installation in my 96 ST. The thing is that my speaker keep whining, even if the engine isn't running. And it only gets a hell of a lot worse if I crank my engine. If the engine is going the whining follows the rpm, so when revving my engine, it gets pretty loud.

Done so far (tips came from Norwegian Audio forum):
- I have grounded my RCA's to the battery.
- Grounded my Head unit to the battery.
- Grounded both my amps to the battery instead of in the chassis, done with 35mm2 cable.

My setup:

Dynabel BF0804 ( 4 channel providing my front and back set)
Dynabel BF7501 ( 1400W running my 12" in the back)
Headunit: Boss BV9995
Have done the "big 3" in the engine bay.
Seas Lotus 6,5" 3 way system with 1" tweeters in mirror houses. ( Specs if searching for Seas reference)
In the back i got some Pioneers, dno model atm.
12" Dynabel DY9812 (30kg heaving bastard at 1000W RMS)


Would love some help, or just a saying that it could by my Head unit that is defect.

C.S

[GriffGirl]

go buy yourself a ground loop isolator.

[95CelicaST]

You're running the RCA lines too close to your amp power line, which is causing the noise. Separate them and you won't have a problem.

[Cs91]

You're running the RCA lines too close to your amp power line, which is causing the noise. Separate them and you won't have a problem.

Cant be the problem.... The RCA's are in the middle of the car, and i have power running at the passenger side, and ground on the driver side... so they are atleast 3 feet apart..
And the loop isolater would just do the same job as I've manually done by hooking everything to the battery ground, even then RCA's

[trdproven]

get a better ground cable and a better ground to test on the body. whine is always because of ground. scratch or steel brush that contact and bolt.

[Cs91]

get a better ground cable and a better ground to test on the body. whine is always because of ground. scratch or steel brush that contact and bolt.

The Ground from the batt to the body u mean? Its all been done with 53mm2 cables, and its attached to the Metal under where the original air filter housing sits on the 7AFE, i also unsed some sand paper on the place before I connected the ground there

[str8thugginit4ya]

First off, I'm gonna say that I'm not the best at audio stuff, but I have had a LOT of experience installing and fixing audio equipment. 1st, you should find seperate ground locations for your amps. So if you have 2 amps, you should have two different grounds (not mandatory, but preferred for optimum performance). Your battery should have it's own ground. Each of your ground wire should NOT AT ALL be longer than 2-3 ft. The longer your ground wire, the more easily it picks up that whining noise. Plus, having seperate grounds allow your amps to recieve more power. 2nd, I believe that you should try moving your RCA's to the opposite side of the car, from where your power wire is running. With only 3ft of isolation from the power wire to you RCA's, there may be a small chance of "whining" that may be getting picked up by the RCA's. I had run RCA down the middle of an Audi and it still picked up alternator whine. But after I relocated the RCA's to the opposite side, it stopped. Do you have an eq hooked up as well?

EDIT:Also, what do you mean when you say you grounded your RCA's to the battery as well? (Can you elaborate?)


-Ryan

get a better ground cable and a better ground to test on the body. whine is always because of ground. scratch or steel brush that contact and bolt.

The Ground from the batt to the body u mean? Its all been done with 53mm2 cables, and its attached to the Metal under where the original air filter housing sits on the 7AFE, i also unsed some sand paper on the place before I connected the ground there

Yea, you don't want to play cheap when you're doing your ground wiring. For example, if you have 4 gauge power wire running and you have a 12 gauge for your ground, you should have just bought 12 gauge power wire as well. Your ground wire is just as important to feeding electricity as your power wire is.


-Ryan

This post has been edited by str8thugginit4ya: Jan 29, 2010 - 9:33 AM

[Cs91]

EDIT:Also, what do you mean when you say you grounded your RCA's to the battery as well? (Can you elaborate?)


-Ryan




Yea, you don't want to play cheap when you're doing your ground wiring. For example, if you have 4 gauge power wire running and you have a 12 gauge for your ground, you should have just bought 12 gauge power wire as well. Your ground wire is just as important to feeding electricity as your power wire is.


-Ryan

Well, first off. I'm having the largest cables avalible for me as the ground in the engine bay. and from the batt to the back im running 4awg (35mm2) cables, which is the bit larger then the power which is 4awg 30mm2.

The thing is that i cant understand how it can make all the noise because of the cables being a tad close. Atleast from what i have read that isn't a big enough source to make so MUCH alternator whine as I got. Also my larges amp, the monoblock, is said to be very picky on the grounding, and it's doing fine, so I can see how the grounding can be that bad, and since its connected to the battery (-) it should be fine. Before i changed the ground to the battery, they were connected with 1ft grounding wire, and the problem was just the same.

I have read up a bit on it on the web, and something called mute plug came up as a way to rule out a HU manufactorer fault, anyone know what this plug is?

[pepsiman]

Try moving your rca's away from your fuel pump, which is in the middle of the car, under the backseat.

[razor7]

This may have already been mentioned, but if you're using an iPod adapter that transmits over an FM frequency, often times it'll also output the whine of the alternator. Somehow it works as a conductor for that sound specifically and feeds it into your system. Try listening to CDs/direct iPod in and see if it still does it.

-TC