Richee3's Progress thread., Wilwood BBK installed. Options

[richee3]

Yeah, unplugging the solenoid causes a CEL. So far, that's the only CEL I've had. The thing is, I should have had the same amount of power until 4,500 RPM, when power should have dropped off due to no valve timing changing. Instead, I had no power until 3k, when it felt exactly the same as with the solenoid plugged in. That's not what should have happened. I've been thinking that the VVT could be my problem for a while but now I'm a little more sure that it's my issue. I'm getting a little more confident that it's the issue. I just have to figure out what's causing the issue. Since the car is a DD, tearing the motor apart isn't an option. It's just replace external parts or do what can be done in a day. Otherwise, this motor comes out and a different one goes in. I'm still trying to avoid that.

[njccmd2002]

get a new vvti

[stephen_lee]

swap solenoids between your greytop?

maybe the vvt isnt adjusting properly, or the vvt position sensor is malfunctioning

[richee3]

I already swapped sensors between the two motors and that's the day I unplugged the VVT solenoid. It didn't change anything. Neither did changing the oil pressure sensor last night, but at least I was able to get a reading from the wire with my multimeter.

I'm getting tired of posting "I tried this and it didn't work."

[ricochet1490]

you've already changed the vvt-i sensors. Nothing changed. What is the liklihood of both sensors being bad? I'm going to go with NO on that one. the vvt only works and operates when the solenoid gets the appropriate signal from the ECU.... which henceforth gets its information from sensors... temperature, cam angle position, etc. It's a freaking rabbit chase. I can't help but wonder if a fresh pair of mechanic eyes and experience would help? there are a TON of vvt motors out there now. new celicas, hondas all over the place, surely they would have an idea of what causes it in general.... idk... a fresh pair of eyes and ears told you it was running on 3 cyl. so it might be worth a shot.

[richee3]

That's just it. The guy I would have help me is shady. He's hard to get in touch with. He's a god with cars though, and could probably figure it out pretty quickly if I could get him to look at it. Other mechanics around here won't touch the car since it doesn't have the factory motor in it anymore. I still need to swap out crank angle sensors just to check that. However, do you remember me posting that link to the thread where a guy with a Blacktop had my exact same problem? All his issue was was just low fuel pressure? I'm getting the fuel pressure checked today to see if I have any issues there. What I've read has been ambiguous but it seems like most 4 cylinders need around 40 psi, but the BEAMS needs 60-65 psi. At least I'll know what I have, then I need to do my research to find out if the BEAMS FPR is adjustable or if I need to buy one. I'm just taking this one guess at a time.

[bloodMoney]

I've got a universal adjustable FPR with a gauge on it if you want it. Its in MI, so it'll have to be after the next time I go up, but if you want it, you can have it.

[BonzaiCelica]

all n/a celica's use the same fuel pump. But now I see why you say the beam pushes out more fuel than the rest.

23280 REGULATOR ASSY, FUEL PRESSURE
23280‑74110 3SGE..ST202 1 $167.04

23280B HOSE, FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR RETURN
23271‑88460 3SGE..ST202 (09/1993 - 11/1997) 1 $56.62
23271‑88562 3SGE..ST202 (12/1997 - ) 1 $51.75

see the same part number except the fuel return line is different...

but ST202 SS-I 3SFE Engine
23280 REGULATOR ASSY, FUEL PRESSURE
23280‑74151 3SFE..ST202, 203 1 $152.06

hmm I wonder which pressure regulator I have in my car???

23280 REGULATOR ASSY, FUEL PRESSURE
23280‑74100 5SFE..ST204 1 $152.06

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Sep 23, 2011 - 11:48 AM

[njccmd2002]

imsstarting to think you have a faulty ECU. I mean you have tested everyhing.

[richee3]

Bonzai- I posted a link earlier about a guy with a Blacktop who had exactly the same issue as me, but at 5k instead of 3k. He checked his fuel pressure and bumped it up to like 60 or 65 psi and his problem went away. Then it seems like I've read a post on the BEAMS Owners Group saying basically the same thing, that the BEAMS uses somewhere in the 60's. I need to talk to the mechanic who checked it today and find out how many psi I have, then troll the BEAMS Owners Group and get more solid information.

Noberto- that's crossed my mind. But at around $300 apiece, it's going to be one of the last things I replace. I opened it up to check for anything wrong. It passed a visual test, but it's still a computer that presumably went through an X ray in Customs. It could easily be faulty, I'm just praying it isn't and checking the cheap stuff first.

[Batman722]

Give me a call.

[richee3]

Slight update, the 5S power steering belt works for the BEAMS. I'll be replacing the serpentine belt soon and I'll let you guys know which belt fits that.

Other slight update:



This post has been edited by richee3: Sep 26, 2011 - 6:57 PM

[njccmd2002]

nice, but u need the hood..

[richee3]

Soon, within the next few paychecks

[Keiri]

Dan is making out like a bandit on these deals.

Hope you sort out the troubles with the BEAMS...or find a great, cheap deal on a 3SGTE.

[richee3]

Thanks, Brian! Your continued optimism and enthusiasm is greatly appreciated. The bumper came from Zake. It was local and both the price and color were right. We weren't about to pass it up. We're going to try to get it on the car as soon as possible, but the BEAMS remains my first priority. I'm about to get the factory airbox for it, then I'm looking for a good GT4 hood.

This post has been edited by richee3: Sep 27, 2011 - 12:29 PM

[richee3]

Well, Chris and I were planning another BEAMS swap next Spring, using my Greytop. But I cracked it open a few days ago and based on what I saw, the inside-y parts of the Greytop aren't so clean. In throttle body doesn't worry me. It can be cleaned. It's what's inside the intake manifold that doesn't look so good and what's worse, where the oil flows into the head. I cleaned out the main opening but you can still see some of the little chunks of... whatever they are sitting inside the head. The inside of the valve cover looks just as clean as the Redtop, but the rest of the Redtop is cleaner. Looks like I have plenty of spare parts...





I'm still waiting to find out how much fuel pressure I have before swapping out any more sensors. Otherwise, I've been looking into the VVT-i components. I'll swap out the cam angle sensor soon, per Dustin and Stephen, and after that, I know the OCV is fine since I've changed that out, then I'm concerned about oil pressure. There's a filter before the OCV that the guys with 2ZZ's like to clean every 30k. Problem is, it's much more difficult to get to on a BEAMS than a 2ZZ. Those guys can take a single bolt out to get to the filter, I have to crack my motor apart. My problem could be that the filter is clogged up but I doubt it. It could be that the VVT gear isn't quite working right. If you take the timing belt off, the gear locks up and needs to be unlocked. I know my gear isn't stuck advanced all the time or else the car would be useless at any speed in any gear. I think it's fuel pressure related but nonetheless, I'm doing my research on VVT-i.

[richee3]

[stephen_lee]

excuse me a moment....

[stephen_lee]

excuse me a moment....

SEXY