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> Removing dry paint runs?
post Apr 10, 2010 - 6:31 PM
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Scosh

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Ok so while I was painting my gt, I had a couple of runs about an inch and a half long. Its dried up and I was wondering if there is any way I can remove them? I used a razor to shave them off and sanded with 400 grit then 1500 grit sandpaper. Im waiting until tomorrow to spray over it. Am I missing any steps?
post Apr 10, 2010 - 6:44 PM
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str8thugginit4ya

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Sounds about right, but I think that 400 grit might have been a little too coarse. But hey, if it is smooth then I don't have a problem with it. Also, I don't think you have to re-spray just because of a run. Once you've sanded it down nicely, you could buff it back to where it looks like nothing ever happened. Some advice, if you don't know how to buff, please get someone who knows. A couple seconds too long buffing on one spot and you could burn your paint. Just a tip!


-Hope I helped, Ryan

EDIT: You're a talking about the clear coat that ran, correct?

This post has been edited by str8thugginit4ya: Apr 10, 2010 - 6:45 PM
post Apr 10, 2010 - 7:10 PM
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Scosh

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Im talking about the actual paint that ran. I didnt spray my clear because of that. And I have a friend that will buff it for me so Im ok with that. Spraying clear tomorrow wont hurt the paint in any way right?
post Apr 10, 2010 - 7:34 PM
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Badkarma



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you may have to scuff all the basecoat(color) that sat while it was drying. then respray a light coat of base, and then you can clear. scuff with 800 -1000 grit, then re spray.

your paint manufacturer may suggest different though. I use Nexa Autocolor at my shop. and if my base sits overnight, i usually lightly scuff with a blue 3m Sanding sponge and then i spray light coat of color and then i clear.


...also. if its a metallic color, and you've sanded out a run in your basecoat, i would HIGHLY suggest spraying a coat of color again. sanding your metallic can/will "smere" your metallic orientation.
Erich
post Apr 10, 2010 - 10:13 PM
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Scosh

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I have frost white, would i have to spray another coat of color again?
post Apr 10, 2010 - 10:21 PM
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Scosh

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Also the only sandpaper I have to work with is 320,400,1500,and 2000 grit all wet/dry. Can I do 400 to 1500?
post Apr 12, 2010 - 8:04 PM
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str8thugginit4ya

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QUOTE (Scosh @ Apr 10, 2010 - 10:21 PM) *
Also the only sandpaper I have to work with is 320,400,1500,and 2000 grit all wet/dry. Can I do 400 to 1500?



That's kind of a dramatic change in grit there. You don't have ANY access to 600, 800, or even 1000? I would normally say that the transition from the 400 grit to 1500 grit sandpaper is a not too good, but if you're up to the task then go for it. Just remember one thing, patience is a virtue. Don't rush, most sanding mistakes come from rushing the job. If you need to take breaks then be sure to do so. I know I'm sounding sort of like an instructor but I just would like to see you get your car done the way you'd like it to get done.


-Ryan
post Apr 12, 2010 - 8:09 PM
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Scosh

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I have the paint job done and the clear is dripping a little in a couple of spots. I am going to take this whole week just to color sand my car focusing on one panel each day.
post Apr 12, 2010 - 8:36 PM
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Badkarma



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sorry didnt get back to you in time. if you are set on using the 400, and going to 1500, make sure you use 400 WET for a while before switching to 1500. the 400 WET will act like 500-600 DRY... but in the future, its less than 50$ for an entire BOX of 600-800 grit. IMO, paintwork isn't something to really "skimp" on materials.

you should post some pictures. everyone (including myself) would like to see your results.

Erich
post Apr 12, 2010 - 9:46 PM
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Scosh

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Im going to be careful when color sanding and buffing. It will be done before next weekend though(prom weekend) I think it would be cool to drive there in a nice celica, rather than the usual limo IMO wink.gif

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