Permanent Conversion to Spoilerless, inspired by 3-post to 2-post threads Options

[hurley97]

as an extension of this post about converting from 3-post to 2-post....

FIND A 94-95 HATCH IF YOU CAN!!!!
You will have holes to fill after completing this!!!

WARNING: If you are not comfortable doing this yourself get help.
I would highly advise using a 94-95 hatch if there is anyway to do so.
I take no responsibility for your misinterpretation of my lingo, nor am I
responsible in anyway for you choosing to do this to your hatch. I am also
not the greatest speller in the world, so you have been warned.



STEP 1: I bought 2 metric set screws, (head less)(they use an allen wrench inside the screw itself) the same size as stock hatch bolts. (available at ace hardware)

STEP 2: Screw the setscrew into front 2 spoiler holes so they barely stick out beyond flush.(be careful adjusting spoiler on car as the will scratch the
hell out of your paint) If you are doing it alone cover the hole area to be drilled
with a rag on both sides.

STEP 3: Line up holes in hatch with 2 post holes (the .390" ones in back that actually line up not the slots.)

STEP 4: Start screws in back holes till a little less than finger tight and try to center the bolt hole in hatch with the tapped hole in spoiler as best you can.

STEP 5: Remove rags from under set screws in front part of spoiler.

STEP 6:Lightly snug rear bolts(a little more than finger tight) and re center
as close as possible.

STEP7: Tap down on front part of spoiler lightly (with hand, NOT hammer)
this will create a witness mark(scratch in paint) from the set screws into the hatch itself.

STEP8: Carefully remove spoiler.

STEP9: Remove setscrews from spoiler. ( look at hatch to make sure it is clearly marked, if not, skip 9 go back to step 3 and start over, tapping a little harder)




Step 10: MOVE WIRING HARNESS IN HATCH OUT OF WAY!!!!
Use small drill to start with. ( I used 1/8 in and worked up from there)
I drilled the holes and double checked everything as I went. Drill through
both walls of hatch(must be part open or you will drill into car)


STEP 11: From inside of hatch, drill with hole saw up to 3/4" (INSIDE WALL ONLY)
Using smaller hole as pilot.

as you requested Randy

from this post http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;p=489063&

How I removed my spoiler and covered the holes and where you have to drill to convert to a 2 post.
I just used a clear vinyl sticker to cover the holes but they've held up very well for a good 9+ months now and I can take them off if I need/want to.

There are two screws for each outer post and one for the middle post. The third hole on the outers is where the plastic piece snaps into. One of the holes that are already there should match up with the 2-post. The area circled is where you have to drill the other hole, you'll notice how it flattens/flares out a little.




there was adhesive on mine that took some time to get off (using Goo Gone)


I didn't think I would but I kind of like the spoiler-less look so until I have the time/money to put the 2 post on it will stay that way. I bought an etched vinyl/sticker (of a chevy logo ) from Autozone and cut out the clear parts to cover the holes, I figured it would be the easiest to get off later and stay better than some kind of tape because it's made to go on cars. I put some electrical tape on the underside as well, just for the hell of it.



when I put the two post in I'll have more to add

... here's how to convert from spoiler to no spoiler...

[hurley97]

thanks to Manny (presure2) I am permanently spoilerless... and loving it! Here's how it was done...

Tools of choice: Welder, pieces of metal cut into small squares, a marker, masking tape...

first sand the paint off around the holes.
then take the marker...


and tape the metal squares to it to hold it in place under the holes in the hatch


tack weld the squares to the hatch. use a wet towel to cool the area if it gets too hot (so as not to warp the body of the car)


sand down the welds so they are flush with the surface of the trunk


repeat the process for each hole


then just fill with body filler, sand, and repeat until smooth. cover the exposed metal with primer and wait a few days. This way you let the body filler dry and shrink into place


it will probably need another thin coat over it before paint. and now it looks like it was made like that.

[Valo666]

nice write up stef. I like the little trick with the tape and the marker. did you hand sand the welds down? or did you hit it with a grinder/die-grinder??

[presure2]

nice write up stef. I like the little trick with the tape and the marker. did you hand sand the welds down? or did you hit it with a grinder/die-grinder??

we sanded the welds with a 90* die grinder with a roloc disk.

looks good steff!

[goferris]

now when is that dcw ducktail going to be installed?

[doGGy]

Filling the holes after welding is best with Kitty hair filler (or filler with some fiberglass hair in the filler) It sanks less then all the normal fillers. And when filling the holes - be sure to press the filler as much as posible that it would fill every single place of the how and all the air bubles would get out of it. Aftef fillind the hoel with the Fiberfiller - use a normal filler to finish everything smooth

This is just a tip, cuz i did the same thing on my ST celi way way before filling up Rear wiper hole and antena hole - and honestly - after summer - i had these places visible cuz of the filler sanked down in these places.

[presure2]

Filling the holes after welding is best with Kitty hair filler (or filler with some fiberglass hair in the filler) It sanks less then all the normal fillers. And when filling the holes - be sure to press the filler as much as posible that it would fill every single place of the how and all the air bubles would get out of it. Aftef fillind the hoel with the Fiberfiller - use a normal filler to finish everything smooth

This is just a tip, cuz i did the same thing on my ST celi way way before filling up Rear wiper hole and antena hole - and honestly - after summer - i had these places visible cuz of the filler sanked down in these places.

good tip romas.
we call it "tigerhair" over here.
fiberglass reinforced bodyfiller.

[Jaws4God]

I think i'm gonna stay spoilerless



This post has been edited by Jaws4God: Feb 16, 2008 - 10:39 PM

[jdg371]

Jaws, the Celica looks sick without the spoiler!

[97lestyousay]

I love the spoilerless look as well. Nice work, I need to fill mine in the right way someday.

[m0dd3d1]

So hot! Nice job.

[lx130]

what paint and proocess did u use to cover the sanded/fillered area? cuz im planning on covering teh holes in m trunk lid cuz i just bought my TRD wing which comes in this week... i wanna prepare for it

[jcbass7]

this is the same process when you want to shave your rear wiper or your antenna! Ive done it twice now, never tried the marker idea, thats clever.

just a side note, whenever welding near glass MAKE SURE TO COVER THE GLASS! when i shaved my rear wiper small sparks/hot tiny bits of metal, landed on the hatch glass and of course, melted little divots into the glass. so just be concious of this if you do any welding real close to glass.

Nice work Manny and Stef!

JDM GUY FTW!

[Sebby]

Really nice job done !! Looks like u never had spoiler before.