Some updates on my GT, Respray progress pics added page 2 Options

[Tom88]

Its been just over a year now since i bought lukes(manphibian) old gen6 GT. Since then ive crashed it into a lampost in the snow. Fitted a new bumper and crash bar to sort that one out. After that ive had on going idle problems for almost a year which i hope will be sorted this week with a replacement thermostat. The skirts began to lose more and more paint and with the replacement bumper looking tatty ive decided to have the car resprayed (same colour). Most recently my driveshaft snapped which was pretty shocking. Just replaced the driveshaft and cv joint.

Ive also decided to paint the alloys white when the car goes to the spray shop. I bought some 17" Dezent wheels to put it on while its there (£55!) which im guna refurb and sell on!

Il get some more pictures of the car as it is at the moment later in the week!

This post has been edited by Tom88: May 6, 2010 - 9:15 AM

[Tom88]

Heres a few pics of some new additions to the car

Rear shocks have gone so got a pair of KYB Shocks from fensport.



Not sure how these will turn out with the car lowered 40mm?


My new dials from speedhut.



Got a set of Toyo Proxies recently, highly recommended!

[Tech-Nics]

^^^ Nice mods!!! Also I wonder if you lower and install the mud flaps. They might drag. I have OEM height and my mud flaps barely miss the road, but when I have people in the back seat then they rub against the road.

[Tom88]

^^^ Nice mods!!! Also I wonder if you lower and install the mud flaps. They might drag. I have OEM height and my mud flaps barely miss the road, but when I have people in the back seat then they rub against the road.

Thanks!

Yeah im not so sure now, i didnt think about it at the time though. However 90% of the time its just me in the car and occasionally my gf so it wouldnt be a problem most of the time although there are a disgusting amount of speed bumps in my area. Il give it a go anyway!

[Tech-Nics]

^^^ Yeah you already bought them. Toss them on maybe it will work out after all. Just please post some pictures when you are done.. haha

[Tom88]

Just got quoted £101 to have the shocks fitted. Maybe not a bad price but id rather do it myself. How long do you think it would take if youve not done it before? Need some spring compressors thats all though....

[SwissFerdi]

It's relatively simple, and you don't even need a spring compressor, necessarily. The rear springs are barely under pressure and the front springs will only cause the nut to pop off a few feet...in either case, just point the strut assembly away from anything you remotely value.

Spring install how-to.

The only real problem area (unless you're not experienced with a wrench) are the sway bar end links, which come off by using an allen key to hold them in place and a wrench to twist the nut off.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Apr 1, 2010 - 12:30 PM

[Tom88]

It's relatively simple, and you don't even need a spring compressor, necessarily. The rear springs are barely under pressure and the front springs will only cause the nut to pop off a few feet...in either case, just point the strut assembly away from anything you remotely value.

Spring install how-to.

The only real problem area (unless you're not experienced with a wrench) are the sway bar end links, which come off by using an allen key to hold them in place and a wrench to twist the nut off.

Cheers mate! Might give it ago this weekend. Got alot to at the moment! Thermostat to fit on Saturday and if my facelift bumper arrives tomorrow il do that on monday

By the way, the shocks ive got (in the pics above) i thought were rear shocks but the garage i got the quote from was sure they are fronts?

One more thing, will i need to replace anything on the suspension at the same time? As far as i know its all been on the car since it rolled out the factory other than the Spax springs installed by manphibian.

[SwissFerdi]

It's worth taking a look at the boots, which are probably torn. Also, the strut mounts themselves might need replacing, but I can't tell you what indicates too much wear/need for replacement.

KYB parts reference.

For some reason it's only showing me GR-2 part numbers under '94 GT, when I know there are several types of struts. Copy the part number for yours on the box and check it under parts search.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Apr 1, 2010 - 12:58 PM

[Tom88]

Ahh the boots are totally f*cked mate! Forgot about them though! Im going to make the obvious assumption that you have to change the boots at the same time? What about bump stops? Id rather buy a few in-expensive parts that arent needed than take it all apart and not have the right parts!

Here's a few more pics showing the terrible state the bodywork is in and how much it deserves a respray!







It doesnt show so much in the pictures but the paint is totally off on the LHS. It looks more like burgundy than red tbh!

[manphibian]

Shocks look good! It's done well i guess to have done so many miles on the originals.... plus it's been running 40mm lower for years! Are you going white with the wheels then? It's probably the only colour left that they haven't been painted in

[Tom88]

Yeah i thought it was probably about time they were changed aswel. Yup going for white wheels, having said that your bronze wheels are holding up really well and i love that colour aswel.

Dont spose you changed the Lambda sensor while you had the car at all? Im almost certain thats whats causing my idle problems at the moment. Also im confused about how much i should be paying for one aswe.

On ebay they can go from as little as £15 up £80. A member on CCUK can get them for about £70 and i think they are over £100 from Mr.T

[manphibian]

hmmmm, no never changed that..... i heard they were about 60-70 ish....

are you running with the de-cat?

I thought there was a fault code thrown up if the lambda was shot? Would be good if you could try someone elses before shelling out...?

[Tom88]

Well i had a look on the net regarding lambda's and this is what i found

A lambda sensor’s normal life span is 30,000 to 50,000 miles, but the sensor may fail prematurely if it becomes clogged with carbon, or is contaminated by lead from leaded petrol or silicone from an antifreeze leak or from silicone sealer.

As the sensor ages, it becomes sluggish. Eventually it produces an unchanging signal or no signal at all. When this happens, the Check Engine Light may come on, and the engine may experience drivability problems caused by an overly rich fuel condition. Poor fuel economy, elevated CO and HC emissions, poor idle, and/or hesitation during acceleration are typical complaints.

If the average voltage from the lambda sensor is running high (more than 0.50V), it indicates a rich condition, possibly due to a bad MAP, MAF or Air Flow sensor or leaky injector. If the average voltage reading is running low (less than 0.45V), the mixture is running lean possibly due to a vacuum leak or because the sensor itself is bad.

If the lambda sensor continually reads high (rich), it will cause the engine computer to lean out the fuel mixture in an attempt to compensate for the rich reading. This can cause lean misfire, hesitation, stumbling, poor idle and high hydrocarbon emissions (from misfiring).

If the lambda sensor continually reads low (lean), it will cause the engine computer to enrich the fuel mixture. Injector pulse width will increase causing fuel consumption and carbon monoxide emissions to go up. Constant rich fuel mixture can also cause the catalytic converter to overheat and it may be damaged.

If the lambda sensor’s output is sluggish and does not change (low cross counts & long transition times), the engine computer will not be able to maintain a properly balanced fuel mixture. The engine may run too rich or too lean, depending on the operating conditions. This, in turn, may cause drivability problems such as misfiring, surging, poor idle, and high emissions.

If a heated sensor has a faulty heating circuit or element, the sensor can cool off at idle causing the system to go into open loop. This usually results in a fixed, rich fuel mixture that will increase emissions.

Sometimes an apparent lambda sensor problem is not really a faulty sensor. An air leak in the intake or exhaust manifold or even a fouled spark plug, for example, will cause the lambda sensor to give a false lean indication. The sensor reacts only to the presence or absence of oxygen in the exhaust. It has no way of knowing where the extra oxygen came from. So keep that in mind when diagnosing oxygen sensor problems.

The lambda sensor is also grounded through the exhaust manifold. If rust and corrosion of the manifold gaskets and bolts is creating resistance, it may affect the sensor's output. To rule out a bad ground, use a digital volt meter to check for a voltage drop between the sensor shell and the engine block. More than 0.1v can cause a problem.

Leads me to believe its the lambda because i have all of the problems it says you can have. I did jump the terminals to pull up fault codes but got nothing, however it does say above that it "may" come on. The car just scrapped the MOT on emissions aswel. Havent got the decat on, however as soon as i sort the idle problem out im guna stick it on. How much louder is it with that on?

[manphibian]

haha, it's a LOT louder lol!

You get a few extra horses, and a bit more throttle response too, but yeah, it's loud

[Tom88]

haha good stuff. Il see what its like but i dont know if the neighbours will approve every morning when i goto work!

Ive been looking around for rear bushes for the suspension because im guessing they will be knackered by now as well as ive been driving around for a few months on that broken shock. I saw a set on ebay for £170 though! Seems a lot of abit of rubber?

[manphibian]

hmmmm, does sound a bit pricey. Are they powerflex? If there's no creaking or knocking, or play in the suspension, you may be alright....?

[Tom88]

Cant remember what make they were tbh. Theres no creaking but i dont want the mechanic to be half way through replacing them and find out the bushes are knackered and he doesnt have a set to fit.

Think i may have found the answer though!


Energy Suspension - Celica Rear ARB Bushes - 17.5mm - 8.5125
Item number 1740
8.5125G Energy Suspension durable polyurethane components do not rot or deteriorate from exposure to oils and undercar chemicals or atmospheric conditions. Unlike rubber, polyurethane components will not break down and deteriorate causing mushy handling and poor steering response.

Price includes metal holders and washers.

Fits all 94-99 and 2000+ Celica
Price : £ 28.33 (including VAT)

I take it thats the bit im after?

[Tom88]

Oh, those are anti roll bar bushes. Never mind....as you can see my car parts knowledge is pretty poor

This post has been edited by Tom88: Apr 18, 2010 - 12:00 PM

[Tom88]

Just booked the car in for the respray! 3rd of May