Power Window Motor & Line Repair..help pls. |
Power Window Motor & Line Repair..help pls. |
Jul 7, 2010 - 1:48 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 29, '09 From Gainesville, FL Currently Offline Reputation: 17 (100%) |
Well as it states, somehow my passenger power window line got jammed up in the motor, and broke the motor and plastics...not to mention the line itself is pretty screwed.
I've done a search, but have found nothing useful on the motor replacement. Anyone done it before, few pointers would be nice, cause It certainly does not seem to be a easy install due to placement and complexity of where that metal line runs. |
Jul 7, 2010 - 5:50 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
It's actually pretty easy to do - you need to search for the regulator, which is the entire assembly and should include the motor as well.
To replace it, you'll need a 12mm (iirc) socket, a 10mm socket, and a short extension. You'll also need to be able to lower your window about halfway - when you remove the door panel, you'll see that there are service holes where you can access the bolts that bolt the window to the rail. First step is to unbolt the window, I believe there are 3 bolts (12mm). Then you will be able to pull the window up by hand and remove it - you *could* manage w/out removing the window all together, but trust me, it's WAY easier to just get it out of the way so you have room to work. With the curvature of the window, it will be near impossible to manipulate the regulator in such a way that you can get it out of the door. After you've removed the window, you'll need to unbolt the regulator and motor from the door. If I remember correctly, there are 3 bolts holding it in - two are at the very bottom edge of the door, and one is toward the front of the door, about halfway up. (that's where the motor is). Unbolt the motor and regulator, and then grab a hold of the rail and rotate it sideways so that you can maneuver it out of the door through the larger hole in it. Oh, and there should be some electrical connectors to the motor - one is a two-wire connector that you'll see mounted on the door skin... maybe that's the only one, actually. I don't remember. But I think it is. Installation is the opposite of removal. Depending on the position of the replacement regulator, you may need to "put the window up" so that you can access those bolts through the service holes so you can bolt your window back on. Any questions, feel free to ask, and good luck! Check http://www.rockauto.com for a regulator, I believe they have them, and new, they're maybe in the $80-$90 range? Not sure... -------------------- |
Jul 7, 2010 - 6:26 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 29, '09 From Gainesville, FL Currently Offline Reputation: 17 (100%) |
Ty soooo much Griff!
It looked difficult, but I knew someone has done it before with the right knowledge. I'll take a crack at it, got another regulator/motor coming from a ST partout on here, so all should be good. Thanks again for the great info. |
Jul 7, 2010 - 7:22 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
Doesn't have to be an ST, in fact, you'll probably have better luck finding one off a GT since the ST didn't come with power windows so much.
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Jul 7, 2010 - 7:30 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 28, '09 From York pa Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) |
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Jul 7, 2010 - 7:48 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...ndow+conversion
^that's why I have power windows. I madez em muhself. Now to figure out the locks... -------------------- |
Jul 7, 2010 - 8:09 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 28, '09 From York pa Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) |
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...ndow+conversion ^that's why I have power windows. I madez em muhself. Now to figure out the locks... couldnt you install some sort of alarm remote door thingamajig or remote central locking unit |
Jul 7, 2010 - 9:33 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 29, '09 From Gainesville, FL Currently Offline Reputation: 17 (100%) |
Seen 4 STs besides mine, 1 was power, rest were manual. Salvage yards =P
I dunno how I ended up with everything power, but skipped the sunroof...its almost a tease. |
Jul 7, 2010 - 9:35 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 7, '09 Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (65%) |
hahah. the new 97 st i got is all power too, its kind of a shame the 97 doesn't have a sunroof, yet my 94 i'm parting out is all power and has a sunroof too haha.
-------------------- NOVAKx17
2000 Eclipse GT- DD=== oil pump went blown up and sold 1997 Celica ST- swapped and sold 2004 Ford explorer xlt 4x4- totaled 1997 Celica Convertible GT- Going Topless (; (18:32:21) yarik83: axel has a sensitive wife. i hear she used to be a lesbian and then became ferdi ( PARTING OUT A GT COUPE http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=88592 ) |
Jul 7, 2010 - 10:05 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 22, '07 From Houston, TX Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) |
out of my 4 STs they ALL were power windows/locks.
only 2 had sunroofs EDIT: typo This post has been edited by stephen_lee: Jul 7, 2010 - 10:06 PM -------------------- QUOTE "And, as always, your friendship, help, and dedication to the advancement of Texas Celica dominance is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks bro." -DEATH 1994 GT: V6 swap, 5speed E53 W/ LSD, All Power, now RED 1995 ST: SOLD @273k miles, Auto, all power, CarPC, White 1994 ST: Totaled, 5spd, all power, Red RIP 07/09/09 @ 241,810 1994 Lexus LS400: This is my new DD |
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