Acceleration Faltering, Details 2nd page Options

[Tigawoods]

well here is what i did.
i got a similar thread and size bolt from toyota from there bolt bucket (lol)
the stock bolt on the tensioner pulley only uses 50% of the the hole given
the bottom half of the hole had good threads on it so that holds great

the belt btwn the idler and oil pump has tension now

timed it and started it.
rich with the AFR at 10.
corrected the SAFC to -20 at idle which brought the AFR to 12.5 at start and when somewhat warm 13.5

checked the timing and the notch is showing up 1/8th of an inch past the 0 mark.
would that be cause for concern?
the car idles a tiny bit rough

what should i do now

[presure2]

are you talking mechanical timing?
or checking timing with a timing light?
if its mechanical, you need to reset the timing again.
if your checking timing with a light, you need to let it fully come up to temp, bridge e1 and te1 in the diagnostics box, then adjust the distributor till it is at 10*BTDC.

[Tigawoods]

with the light yeah.
cool ill do that now then
thank ya thank ya

[Tigawoods]

all together timed and running again and guess what....no change.
the belt flapping noise is gone now that there is even tension, but just like in post 1 the car is still faltering under load in everygear except 1st.

when i first drove the car after i had fixed it, drove down to the highway and got on and did a little pull and didnt have a single problem. stopped by pep boys came out and got back in and then drove it again and the old problems arose.

tps senor?

my exhaust has gone to crap, could that be an adding factor?

iac valve?

clogged fuel injector?

FPR?

fuel filter?

the car runs fine when driving regular. AFR is perfect, just when under load

This post has been edited by Tigawoods: Jan 15, 2011 - 10:40 AM

[lagos]

Have you checked the safc setup to make sure its on the right car/cyl/sensor setup and that the electrical connections to the ECU are in good shape?

What are you using to monitor AFR?

Did you use a timing light to correctly set the ignition (not mechanical) timing to 10TDC with the ecu in diagnostic mode by having TE and E1 bridged in the diagnostic box with the check engine light blinking?

What type of corrections did you put into the safc in the low and high throttle maps?

This post has been edited by lagos: Jan 15, 2011 - 11:32 AM

[Tigawoods]

all the car/cyl/sensor adj. are the same as they where when we first plugged it in back in KOP

havent checked the ecu

i have a prosport wideband AFR Gauge

set the timing to 10 BTDC with the distributor and the timing light. it was in diagnostic mode.

the corrections that i am running now are ALOT different than what i was running when i first had the cams running right.

at idle im at -20% to get it from running rich. at a cold start its at 12.5 then gradually goes to 14 after. still at -20%
i have a curve from that to 0% from idle to about 2800rpm

the mid range is perfect without correction

at the top end from 3600+ i have a 17% correction.
the afr hold at 14 with that correction under maybe 50% throttle. under full load it goes to 12.5 then eventually 11 when it gets closer to redline

[Tigawoods]

to add to the previous post.
the car is timed right and is running fine at idle (with -17% correction on the SAFC)

the original problem is still occurring
at about 45 percent throttle at any RPM in 2nd gear to 5th
engine stutters, as if its not getting spark or enough fuel, i dont know.


cant really fix anything right now since i brought the car to school and it is under a foot of snow lol

[lagos]

engine stutters, as if its not getting spark or enough fuel, i dont know.

The wideband you have will tell you if its fuel or spark related. Just watch the wideband when the issue occours. If it pegs lean, its fuel.