Low brake fluid - No obvious leaks, NEW QUESTION!!!!! HELP! Options

[slickr]

So I was driving the car for the first time in a week or 2, and the brakes felt a little funny. Also smell something like an "electrical fire". But no smoke or anything. All other fluids seem to be fine.
The very top right container next to the diagnostics box is low (is this brake fluid?) and My master cylinder next to that is low. My car is garage kept, so I would see obvious drips, and none are there . Not sure what this could be, does the fluid level just go down after a while?
thanks

This post has been edited by slickr: Oct 14, 2010 - 1:29 PM

[Bitter]

check your brakes, they can be low which lowers the fluid level.

[zoik]

check the wear of your brake pads. when used, the pistons dont go fully back into the housing when youre not breaking,so less fluid in the container its normal

brakes were funny, what do you mean by that? if you smelled like something was burning maybe you had one of the brakes seized

[slickr]

I am thinking you guys are right .
The brakes just felt a little funnny, idk how to explain it maybe a little softer? No pulsating in the pedal like rotors (i believe that would mean rotors)
But anyway took it out a few times and only gotten worse (nothin extreme) but as soon as I let off the gas at any driving speed, the car slows down ALOT! more than normal. But it doesnt seem to necessarily pull in one way or another.
Just driving around the PC parking lot, as soon as I let off the gas (only doing 10mph, clutch in while stopping) the car barely moves another 5 feet before it stops its self. So I think you guys are right.

I am not too familiar with brakes, I do know how to change rotors, pads, calipers. But idk how to know if they are bad.
The outside pads in the front I can see, and the are still there, but seem to just about touch the rotor when the brakes are not pressed. I dont know if that is normal.
How do I know if its the front or rear brakes? I dont think either have been changed in some time

edit: also no obvious sounds of "metal to metal" does this maybe mean that the calipers freeze up?

thanks for anyyyyyhelp, i really need it

[solidxsnake]

Sounds like you have a stuck piston. Try jacking the car and try rotating the wheels. If they're difficult to rotate, it's most likely a stuck piston. Pull the wheels, check your pads, then pull your calipers and inspect them. You should be able to compress the piston and extend it by pressing the brake pedal.

[zoik]

Sounds like you have a stuck piston. Try jacking the car and try rotating the wheels. If they're difficult to rotate, it's most likely a stuck piston. Pull the wheels, check your pads, then pull your calipers and inspect them. You should be able to compress the piston and extend it by pressing the brake pedal.

just be carreful to not make the piston pop out.

[slickr]

That makes sense, dont know why i didnt think of narrowing it down that way
In the engine bay the vary top right reservoir next to the diag. box, is that for brake fluid?
Also if it is a stuck piston, do I need new calipers?
thanks again!

[Concept69]

Just monitor the brake fluid. If you see it getting lower and no fluid trace. the brake master maybe leaking into the brake booster

[slickr]

jacked up each tire individually, to find that the front drivers side is the culprit.
Now again im not too knowledgeable (took some pics). But when I went to spin the tire there was a "grab" on it quite a bit, and would not spin freely. to get the caliper off I had to pry a little because the piston was so stuck.
The brake pads seem fine, both driver and passengers side are the same (both sides of each). The rotor may have be a little under spec?
Anyhow I took a pic of the piston when i got it off, and to get it to go back it took a bit of force with a C-clamp. But got it in a little, pressed the brake slightly and watched it come out a little bit. So i pushed it back in and put the caliper back on.
Now with the wheel in the air, and the piston fully retracted the wheel spun freely, so other concerns were diminished.

Started the car (neutral, tire in air) and went to push the brake, and it was like nothing was there, went down almost to the floor. And the tire in the air, started spiining (idk if that normal lol). So I shut the car off. The piston even though I pushed the brakes about 3 times didnt seem to do anything. Pads were still loose.
With the car off, I pumped the brakes until they were hard, and I think the caliper locked up again because the wheel stopped being able to be turned with just my hand (like it was in the beginning)
Started again (wheels stopped spinning, i think they did it just cause of the "freedom") And the brake pedal feels fine.

I think I just need a new caliper right?






When I pulled it off


Compressed


Fluid that is low (next to diag. box, seems dirty?)


This post has been edited by slickr: Oct 11, 2010 - 8:06 AM

[zoik]

jacked up each tire individually, to find that the front drivers side is the culprit.
Now again im not too knowledgeable (took some pics). But when I went to spin the tire there was a "grab" on it quite a bit, and would not spin freely. to get the caliper off I had to pry a little because the piston was so stuck.
The brake pads seem fine, both driver and passengers side are the same (both sides of each). The rotor may have be a little under spec?
Anyhow I took a pic of the piston when i got it off, and to get it to go back it took a bit of force with a C-clamp. But got it in a little, pressed the brake slightly and watched it come out a little bit. So i pushed it back in and put the caliper back on.
Now with the wheel in the air, and the piston fully retracted the wheel spun freely, so other concerns were diminished.

Started the car (neutral, tire in air) and went to push the brake, and it was like nothing was there, went down almost to the floor. And the tire in the air, started spiining (idk if that normal lol). So I shut the car off. The piston even though I pushed the brakes about 3 times didnt seem to do anything. Pads were still loose.
With the car off, I pumped the brakes until they were hard, and I think the caliper locked up again because the wheel stopped being able to be turned with just my hand (like it was in the beginning)
Started again (wheels stopped spinning, i think they did it just cause of the "freedom") And the brake pedal feels fine.

I think I just need a new caliper right

if you pushed back the piston the more you could, its normal to have to press the pedal 4-6 times before having a braking system working again. xcan explain why if you want

[slickr]

But do you think I need a new one, if after I pushed it, it has done the same thing and gotten stuck

[stephen_lee]

ok guy reservoir next to the diag box is your clutch master cyl

the one closer to your motor is for your brakes.

since everyone seems to be dodging your question

[solidxsnake]

Yeah, the picture you took is of the clutch master cylinder. The brake fluid res is right next to it, it doesn't have that float in it.

[slickr]

Ok, thanks for actually answering me lol What could be the cause of the clutch fluid being low?

I took the caliper off and the piston froze up again, so I ordered a new one, it'll be here tomorrow morning hopefully that solves that.

But now worried about the clutch. Had a new clutch installed like a year ago, resurfaced flywheel and what not. It was a little bit below half way, But I have never ever checked it, could have just been the same last year. Clutch feels fine.
Should I just drive it, and check the level every once in a while, or do you think something could be wrong that i should check now instead

Thanks to everyone who help my noobness out
Can I put the gt4 brakes directly on if I got my self a pair? I see some selling, and have the extra money, just curious about the direct bolting of it and all.

[solidxsnake]

If the clutch is fine, you're probably fine. Couldn't hurt to fill the reservoir, though.

As for the GT-Four brakes, I'm not sure if they're a direct bolt on. Search the forums, it's come up a ton, I just don't remember.

edit: here you go:

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=68002

edit 2: Should have linked you here instead. Sorry:

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=69180

This post has been edited by solidxsnake: Oct 12, 2010 - 8:32 AM

[slickr]

Filled the reservoir, going to get the caliper now.
Will I need to bleed all my brakes? Or just the new caliper?
thanks again everyone

[stephen_lee]

bleed all the brakes, starting at the passenger rear, drivers rear, passenger front, and drivers front. check fluid often.

[slickr]

I think I need new rotors and pads...
I bled the brakes 3 times, got a little air the second time from the drivers side front. but all liquid the 3rd time from every bleeder.
The passengers side the bleeder broke so i just got 2 new calipers. but they seem a little "loose" I can wiggle them when the brake is not depressed, but cant with my cousins car.
Would It make sense that the pads and rotor were worn away, and the caliper is trying to "push the piston too far" thus making it break?
thanks for the input want to hear some yes's before ordering

[stephen_lee]

no. if theres no obvious damage to your rotors you should be fine. i always end up bleeding the fluid empty, and therefore sucking air in the lines.. make SURE you add fluid every 8-10 pumps, even if it looks ok.. fill it up.